Thread: Router Table Mounting

Aluminium is usually more stable. I use the plastic one from Carbatec and don't find any problems. But I think it might bow a little if I was in a hot shed.

Regarding mounting the plate. Just cut a hole to fit the plate and router and rebate a recess in the edge of the hole for the plate to sit flush with the table surface.

The weight of the router should keep it in place. You can also just use the router handheld with the plate as the base, so you won't really need to remove and replace it normally.

Here is a picture of my plate from Carbatec. $45 is the current price.

Attachment 25323

Timbecon also have this plate and an aluminium version as well.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/details/r...ium-13703.aspx

Noodle - some options.

Plastic - engineering plastic like phenolic is best, but some have success using polycarbonate or acrylic. Downside - losing plunge depth.

Steel - flat & strong, less thickness needed means more plunge depth. Downside - rust

Aluminium - good compromise. Downside - unanodised aluminium may leave black marks on work

All of the above can be attached using screws into your router base (replacing the plastic router base plate).

Some have bought the Triton router plate as a spare part & built it into their homemade table - clamps inbuilt for quick release & remount. Downside - insert rings sit proud of surface

My druthers would be a steel one with inserts made up somehow.

Check out the Veritas circular router plate on the Lee Valley website. I think Wongo has one.


Cheers.....................Sean

I think most would like to have one of the Aluminium ones from Pro Woodworkers. I have the Phenolic plate with the twist in rings, when i bought it i wished i had of several months ago rather than muching about with the steel plate that i made first. But i see that its now $100 rather than the $60 or so when i purchased mine, but i still think that its worth the money, quality of finish etc is awsome.

http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/prod22.htm

Mick.

I got a piece of 10mm Phenolic, 300mm sq. It is pretty good I think. More expensive than plastic/perspex but OK to work with and they cut it dead square for me. Expect to pay $A30 for that size.

Originally Posted by scooter

Noodle - some options.

Steel - flat & strong, less thickness needed means more plunge depth. Downside - rust

All of the above can be attached using screws into your router base (replacing the plastic router base plate).
Cheers.....................Sean

I too use steel but mine is galvanised - the top is laminated with a piece of smooth Laminex.
As to the mounting I use 4 bits of angle iron which clamp the base to the underside of the top
Bob

After a lot of experimentation with homemade and shop-bought plastic or perspex plates I found that they all sagged after a period of time, because of the weight of a router hanging off them. I then settled on the Jess-Em Mast-R-Plate (from Carbatec) and it's brilliant. I also got the set of insert rings with it. The inserts are machined phenolic and the plate itself is 1/4" anodised aluminium, so it won't mark the work. BTW its best to take the springs out of the router if its in the table permanently.

Order from Bunnings or your nearest Triton stockist the Router Mounting Plate and the clamps to fit the router.

The benefits I see are the clamps, this will eliminate your having to find a way to attach the router. Then look at a Triton router Table to see the type of cut out you'll need to make in your table.

I have a serious case of lust for this thing



The unijig from woodpeckers (same site refered to for the other one) but unlike the other one this one is $500+ :eek: and as much as I lust after it I just cant make myself believable when I tell her bloody highness that I really must have it

But boy that along with the Incra router fence would make some fine sort of router table... HEY!! didnt someone not so long ago do just that?

Uni-lift Nice piece of engineering they are, mines still in the box to scared I might scratch it!