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Thread: Sliding bench for Table saw
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2nd December 2007, 09:24 AM #1
Sliding bench for Table saw
I have lost interest in breaking sheets of board down before I can run them through my table saw, so I've designed and am in the process of building a sliding table for my sawbench. I have a big one that will handle a 3600 x 1200 sheet of melimine, but it's HUGE and have no where to set it up. This one will take up less room and also be readily removeable from the saw with zero setup when reattactched.
This sliding table has it's origins in the ones that are sold from carbatec and H&F. This is by far the most involved welding project that I have undertaken for myself, but I reckon it will be worth the work and time.
Here are some pics of the main roller setup that will carry 90% of the table weight.
The rollers are set in a v pattern for location onto the main shaft with the third set directly under the shaft to lock it in place. The bottom bearing pivots on a cantilevered plate with a turnbuckle to tighten them to the shaft.
I will post progress pics of the project until completion.
For anyone interested, I can post the plans in most of the more common cad formats.
I hope you enjoy the journey
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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2nd December 2007 09:24 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd December 2007, 10:14 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Digging up an old thread, have you any photos of the finished result and a report on its performance?
CHRIS
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2nd December 2007, 04:02 PM #3
I'm sorry if this is digging up an old thread, I did a search and found nothing that would cover this.
No I don't have pics of the finished unit, as I'm still in the process of building it.
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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12th December 2007, 08:44 PM #4
I thought that I would skip the progress pics as noone commented on the first. But here are two videos of the finished table. The quality isn't very good, just done with small digital camera. I did the initial setup last weekend and still have to fine tune it. It cuts .25mm out of parallel and .5mm out of square, as I said, fine tuning next.
Anyways, here are the links to the videos. You will need quicktime to play them.
This is the link showing the mechanism 5mb
This is the link showing a series of cuts 15mb
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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12th December 2007, 09:03 PM #5
Nice one Rob, looks nice and solid
Cheers
DJ
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13th December 2007, 10:07 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Looks really good amd smooth. Thanks for the videos, the first one looks like it is running itself!
I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken
Top 10 reasons I procrastinate
1......
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13th December 2007, 10:12 AM #7
C'mon Robert, 50 mins is more than enough time to design, construct, install, test and fine tune a sliding table.
Nice job. I would like to do something similar but it is a long way down the list at the moment. I'll send you a pm for the plans.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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13th December 2007, 10:44 AM #8.
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I just saw these video's - excellent job you did there.
Cheers
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13th December 2007, 11:36 AM #9
Looks great. Good work
Reality is no background music.
Cheers John
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13th December 2007, 11:11 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Specialist,
Superb. Now I really wish I could weld.
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13th December 2007, 11:23 PM #11
Top job Robert.
I thought of also welding one up exactly like that, but at the time considering the lack of time I had and the cost of buying bearings etc, I just went and bought the big Carbatec one. Still in the process of fitting it though.
What is the length that you can dock on yours?
When it is at the end of its travel, does the table have much play in it?I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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16th December 2007, 10:32 AM #12
Thank you for all your kind comments on my sliding bench. I needed something that was reasonably small and compact, as well as light so that when I need to move it I can. My saw was particularly hard to mount to because the motor came out the side so far so the actual saw mounting is a lot more braced than would normally need to be on a saw with a back mounted motor.
It wasn't really that hard to make. All I used were a drill press, 9" grinder, 4" grinder, welder and to make the small adjusters a 1/4" tap. (see 1st and 2nd photos) The whole process took about 26 hours, but some of that included redesigning some parts on the fly to make them work and working out the bracing on the saw mount to stop the flexing. (see 4th and 6th photos) The bearings that I used are second hand out of car alternaters 32 od 12 id. The autoelectrician just throws all his old bearings in a bucket for my boss and we can use them if we need to.
All the material is stock sizes 50 x25 x 2 rhs
50 x 25 x 1.5 rhs
25 x 25 x 1.5 rhs
35 x 35 x 2 rhs
30 x 30 x 2 rhs
40 x 40 x 2 rhs
40 x40 x 1.5 rhs
20 nb black pipe
12mm booker rod
1/4" booker rod
40 x 5 flat mild steel
50 x 50 x 5 mild steel angle
50 x 50 x 3 mild steel angle
25 x 25 x 3 mild steel angle
50 x 5 flat mild steel
25 x 5 flat mild steel
6mm round mild steel
25 x 8 bolt, nut, spring washer
65 x 10 bolt, nut, springwasher
2 x 100mm heavy butt hinges
assorted metaldrilling screws for fixing timber and hinges
There is a little flex in the main slide rail at the start of the stroke, but by the time it starts cutting it's all good. I made a leg that had a wide foot on the bottom so that any sideways movement would be minimised. (see 3rd photo) I made sure that the main carriage set would lock down to the pipe rail allowing no movement at all. The photos in the first post show the bearings held under pressure around the pipe rail, the tighter they are the better it rolls
I can set a full 1200 board in front of the blade to dock it. I have actually about 1370 in front of the blade now, but I may cut it off to smaller if I need to, but that won't be until I give it a good test next year when I build my kitchen. There is one thing that I noticed, the weight of the table and perhaps the board will cause the saw to over ballance, mine isn't bolted down, I put adjustable feet on the bench mount sa seen in the 4th photo to give a cantilever effect but it may not be enough yet (see 4th and 5th photo)
Link to full photo set
RobertLast edited by specialist; 16th December 2007 at 12:28 PM. Reason: stupidity
Check my facebook:rhbtimber
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10th January 2008, 03:49 AM #13Member
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I just watched the movies...very impressive. A point about your test cuts though. I reckon you should rotate the just cut edge onto the fence after each cut, not away from it. To check that you are dead-on square you take a fine cut off each edge as you did in the video and then a fifth, slightly wider cut again on edge 1 (~10 mm). If that strip is of uniform width, you're set. An easy test, without measuring is to break the strip in the middle and compare the two ends. Sorry if this comes under the heading od "Granny" and "egg-sucking"
cheers
George
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10th January 2008, 10:11 AM #14
Thanks George, thats a good point, one that I never gave any thought to at the time. I will do that later to test I guess the reason that I did it that way was because that was the third time that board was cut and was reasonably square to begin with. But I see your point.
I will post the result.
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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10th January 2008, 10:06 PM #15
Must've missed this one Rob, looks good dam handy too, well done mate!
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