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Thread: Sturdee’s drum sander.
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1st May 2005, 03:56 PM #1Deceased
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Sturdee’s drum sander.
Over the years I've collected different plans and articles on how to make one as I've always desired one and as mentioned in the thread on how wide a drum sander should be it’s time to build one.
Each of the plans has good ideas, however they are unnecessarily complicated so I have taken ideas from each plan and together with some of my own ideas have started.
A home made drum sander has four main parts being the drum, the frame, the feed table and the elevation control system adjusting either the drum or the feed table.
As much as possible I’m using materials already held and recycling some old Triton equipment and jigs thereby keeping the cost to a minimum. I already have a ˝ HP induction motor, pulley’s, fan belt, threaded rod and nuts, and a lot of chipboard off cuts that can be used.
I’ve settled on a drum width of 655mm with a diam of 140mm. It will have wheels to easily move it around and to reduce space when not needed I’ll try to make it so that the feed table can be changed to a vertical position.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 04:00 PM #2Deceased
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Making the drum.
I've made the drum 665mm wide, being 40 disks of chipboard some 16mm and some 18mm thick. This will allow for the sandpaper to be stapled on the ends and still leave 625mm max sanding width.
I first cut squares of 145mm out of a pile of chipboard of cuts ( photo 1 ) and then roughly cut out an oversize 140mm diam circle using a jig saw ( photo 2 ). Accuracy or clean cuts are not necessary at this stage, as it will be sanded to size ( photo 3 ).
Using my circle sanding jig and my disk sander ( photo 4) I sanded the disks to final size.
I drilled the holes for the threaded rod in 22 of the 40 disks and to lighten the drum I drilled larger holes in the other 18 using a holesaw. See photo 5.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 04:03 PM #3Deceased
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Making the drum ( cont.)
I glued the drum in sections. I first made the sections by glueing together 2 solid disks and 2 open disks. See photos 1 and 2. Just as well that I have many clamps.
Photo 3 shows a section after glue up. And photo 4 shows the final glue up of all section onto the threaded rod. I used liquid nails to glue the disks to the threaded rod.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 04:06 PM #4Deceased
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Making the drum ( cont.)
After the glue had set I screwed the nuts to the drum, attached the pulley and locking nuts leaving room for the push on bearings.
Photo 1 shows the completed drum resting in the bearing cut outs of the frame parts.
Photo 2 shows a close up of one end and photo 3 shows the other end.
The drum is now ready for installation and final sanding when the feed table is installed.
Next week I’ll be making the frame.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 04:21 PM #5
Its looking good Peter, as always I enjoy following your progress reports on things you build. Well done!
Regards
Al .
You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.
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1st May 2005, 04:28 PM #6
Amazing! i feel like such a wimp for buying tools.
there's no school like the old school.
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1st May 2005, 05:08 PM #7Deceased
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Originally Posted by ryanarcher
Nothing wrong with buying tools Ryan, I do that too.
However, here a small drum sander cost about $ 1k and according to some of your countrymen they have some flex in them and is not accurate on sanding thin material like veneers.
Beside I have already overspent my tool budget :eek: :eek: :eek: so I have to make the rest that I want.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 06:29 PM #8
Peter
"does the centre shaft that goes into the bearing run along the full length of the drum"Regards
Al .
You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.
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1st May 2005, 07:13 PM #9Deceased
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Yes it does Al.
It is a 5/8" threaded rod about 850mm long. That's why I made 22 disks with only the small hole for the rod to pass through, so that the rod would not flex with the weight of the drum.
So disk 1,2,5,6,9,10,13,14 and so on are solid and the others have the larger hole cut out.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 07:17 PM #10
Keep it coming Peter
One thing about putting photos up is that it sort of forces you to keep going so that you don't look like a quitter.Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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1st May 2005, 07:29 PM #11Deceased
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Bob,
I've never been a quitter nor have I ever run away from a good verbal stoush.
I would have built it earlier if I had the time and now that the workshop is in good order, and whilst scrounging parts together for the vertical panel saw, it's a good time. Especially as I'm recycling parts from my old Triton set up.
Worked on the frame today and it was going well untill I ran out of some bolts. :mad:
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 07:49 PM #12Registered
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Are you going to have a SandFest for the opening of the Machine of Death??
If so, put me down for a front row seat, hopefully Ill be the one with the foilie baseball cap on.
Al
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1st May 2005, 07:53 PM #13Deceased
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Don't know yet, maybe I should wait until I've built the vertical panel saw as well and maybe until I've built a router table onto the TS.
Peter.
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1st May 2005, 11:18 PM #14
Sturdee,
I only ask this cause I don't want you getting hurt but I think there is some Merit in Al referring to your prototype as a machine of death!!!!!Are you sure the chipboard is going to hold together???? particularly in use under load as one of the rollers????
REgards Lou?Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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1st May 2005, 11:37 PM #15
Have you thought about the heat aspect ? It might be ok on short runs but on long runs
Sanding = friction = heat + wood = fire !!
I dont have a wide drum sander, but I know the belt on my belt sander gets very hot pretty quick.