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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Default Table Sled Warping during construction - plywood - you break my heart!

    Hi All,

    I'm in the middle of building a 1020mmx700mm Table Saw Sled using 12mm BC Pine plywood for the base.

    The original piece I purchased warped after 3 days in the workshop. It deviated by a couple of mm's at a corner.

    I didn't continue with the build assuming the deviation would reduce its accuracy.

    Instead I pulled an old piece of plywood out that after 5 years on the front verandah as the roof of a dog kennel was still flat. I sanded off some of the grime and cut it down to fit. Low and behold a few hours later it has now bent! Grrrr

    I can only assume that by sanding it and/or cutting it I have given it the opportunity to warp. Would that be right?

    I was going to go out and get a bit or Marine Ply but also considering MDF or now Valchromat.

    I would prefer Marine plywood aesthetically, but am I beating a dead-horse?

    Should I go thicker than 12mm?

    Thanks all for your words of wisdom

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    3,207

    Default

    I've always used 18mm MDF, possibly even some HMR offcuts I had lying around. Hard wearing and stays flat.

    Hardwood offcuts for the front and back rails, and I try to find some nice quartersawn hardwood strips for the runners (for stability).

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Default

    Thanks Mr Brush I did have to google HMR ... Melamine! Thanks Did you glue the runners or just screw?

    I have some 25mm Ply offcuts reversed and glued to form a 50mm fence. Hoping that stays stable. I do have some spare hardwood, but not sure it is quarter-sawn. I have some plywood cut down too. I'm planning on just crewing the runners in in case they need replacing too. Is that wise?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    Default

    Runners are just screwed on. With the runners in the mitre slots, I put the right hand edge of the baseboard up against the fence for alignment (close enough to be a good start), plonk the baseboard down on the runners and screw down into them.

    I prefer to get the runners to be a really tight fit in the mitre slots (I used the board today, and they are as tight as when I made this one 2 years ago), but I did see a trick somewhere of making them slightly undersize and wedging them against the outside edge of the two mitre slots with thin wedges before attaching the board to the runners. By this I mean left hand runner hard up against LHS of its' mitre slot, right hand runner up against RHS of its' slot. This gives tight alignment without taking the time to precisely size the runners.

    Fences are fitted last. I use the 5 cuts method on a piece of ply to do fine alignment of the rear fence until cuts are precisely at 90 degrees.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Default

    Thank you - that is some really helpful advice. Particularly about the runners It might save me a tonne of stuffing around Fingers crossed I will get to the 5 cut method after dealing with all the warping timber

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Good luck with ply! My last sled was 18mm marine ply and left it flat in my workshop for 2 weeks and a week after i had made it I got a bow front to back of around 6mm. I have gone back to MDF and coated with 2 coats of wop.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    120

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brit View Post
    I have gone back to MDF and coated with 2 coats of wop.
    Ha ha What is WOP?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Default

    Got it ...
    Wipe on Poly

    What is WOP?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    Ply ain't what it used to be.....lol. I can still get decent, stable, high quality 18mm birch ply, but it's a bit pricey to use for jigs, etc. in the workshop. MDF is the go.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    In between houses
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    Default

    A 1 metre x700 sled? Is this normal size? Seems massive ����♂️

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    428

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    A 1 metre x700 sled? Is this normal size? Seems massive ����♂️
    whoops I have just finished my first sled it’s 1200 x 800 . It should do everything I need and probably some I don’t

    cheers

    P.S. I thought when it came to timber/tools/shelves etc bigger is better
    P.P.S. I used 18mm yellow tongue, because I had some, no warp after a month.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    A 1 metre x700 sled? Is this normal size? Seems massive ����♂️
    Yeah it is a bit bigger than many ... However i wanted to be able to cross cut pieces that are 600mm deep. It does mean I now have this big ting to lug around the workshop!

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Default

    Here are some images of the finished sled. So far so good! You can see the remnants of the old dog kennel on the underside!

    This first shows the general construction - its pretty much like every other sled! ITs based off the instructions made by "Fix this build that"


    IMG_8444.jpg

    Below is the detail of the T track set into the rear fence. The rear fence is 2x25mm pieces of plywood laminated together. You can see the chamfer under the bottom of the fence ta capture saw dust without interfering with the face of the fence.

    IMG_8447.jpg

    Below is the underside ... with the remnants of the dog kennel showing! This piece didn't warp in 5 years ... it did a little after cutting but the weight of the fence straightened it up! Let's see how it lasts ...

    IMG_8448.jpg

    Details of the runners. Just 12mm plywood, let's see how they last!

    IMG_8449.jpg

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