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20th January 2004, 11:52 AM #1
Yet another table-saw tenoning jig
Here is a picture of my micro-adjustable tenoning jig, which is described in an article in the current Australian Woodworker (#113). The jig described in the article uses 1/8" x 1/2" brass bar for the runners, but you could substitute polyethelene runners ripped from a kitchen cutting board instead, if you don't happen to have a 1/8" spiral bit to rout the grooves for the runners.
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22nd January 2004, 07:56 AM #2
Hi Rocker,
Love your work and love your "precision mentality".
And certaily appreciate the time and effort you take to contribute to this forum.
And was overwhelmed with the quality of work on the "Precision Router Joinery Jig" plans ( for the router ) that you gratiously offered us.
If only I had known you had a design for the table saw Tenoning Jig...
Could you please let us know if you offer an article on this table saw design as well?
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The latest Australian Woodworker I browsed thru at the news agent recently seemed a bit thin this issue.
Regretably, I don't remember seeing the article you mentioned.
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On this table saw jig, where do you place your hands when pushing the workpiece thru the table saw?
A photo would be great.
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Both designs incorporate the precision gague. How hard is it to mount and set the gague and how expensive is it?
Another woodworking hero....Marvel Comics..... where are you.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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22nd January 2004, 08:36 AM #3
Barry,
I don't think it would be right to offer free copies of the article on my tenoning jig whilst the issue of the Australian Woodworker in which it is published is still current. You can always go and peruse it in your local library if you don't think the magazine is worth buying.
To answer your other questions:
I keep my hands out of danger by holding the nearest locking knob to push the jig past the blade.
The gauge costs about $60; look up Engineer's supplies in the yellow pages. It is easy to mount the gauge; it has a metal lug underneath with a hole in it. So you just cut a slot in the mounting block the same width as the lug, and then drill a hole for a 6 mm carriage bolt which locks the gauge in position. You can see the head of the carriage bolt in the picture below the gauge.
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22nd January 2004, 08:55 AM #4
Hi Rocker,
You're absolutely correct. (Don't know what I was thinkin' ) I'll rush out and pick one up now...
You're design will be the only reason I make the special trip out to purchase this issue.
And thanks for the additional info.
Last edited by barrysumpter; 22nd January 2004 at 04:19 PM.
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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22nd January 2004, 03:18 PM #5
FYI
Hafco have a similar guage for $45.00.
.01mm graduation, 0-10mm range.
Gordon.
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22nd January 2004, 03:35 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Just saw some at McJing for $40
http://www.mcjing.com.au
Joe
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22nd January 2004, 04:15 PM #7
No listing on the internet for Hafco nor in the yellow pages.
Would you happen to have a phone or a web page?
If they're closer I don't mind paying the $5AU extra for convenience.
mcjing
http://www.mcjing.com.au/tools/MEASU...E%20MICROMETER
DIAL INDICATOR
14501
14502
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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22nd January 2004, 05:53 PM #8
Hafco
Barry,
Hafco is Hare & Forbes.
They have a "Coming Soon" web site (for over 2 years now) which has nothing much one in (one page) BUT it does have their addresses phone numbers.
http://www.hareandforbes.com.au/Wayne
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When I have some, I'll let you know."
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22nd January 2004, 09:49 PM #9
Thanks, champ!
No wonder I didn't find anything.
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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23rd January 2004, 09:45 AM #10
I forgot to mention that, if you have an 8" dado set, you can use it to cut tenons in a single pass with this jig. I replace the chipper blades with a spacer of the required thickness. I have spacers for 5/16" and 3/8" tenons. Because the teeth of the dado blades are wider than the blades themselves, the spacers need to be about 1 mm thicker than the respective tenon.
Using a dado set in this way overcomes GeoffS's objection to jigs that require you to reference each cut to the nearest face.