Thread: Tip of the month goes to lignum

Its common knowledge Ligs a dead set legend and certainly for me one of my favourate posters................Always learn from him n he's "ONE" of the forums gentlemen.

Yup I'll second that top stuff LIg!!!!

REgards Lou

I'll third that

Getting a bit caried away lou and i know quiet a few here will say your talkin crap but Ta anyway

And Tooling, thanks for the thumbs up. If the original old bloke was still alive who told me id give him a pat on the back from you Its good to share knowledge about what we all love to do

Have you tried it on your carving chisels yet? thats where it shines. Ive had my Pfeils for about 11 years now and get regular on and off use, and i have yet to touch one of them on a grinder and they are just as sharp as the day i got them. And just before you go to carve the Sunday roast, pop out to the shed and give the carver a touch up, brilliant

I little update on Lignums buffing disk. Midge pointed out that Jarrah Lignum uses and the Red Gum I've used most likely won't suffer a catastrophic failure. I also confirmed this myself by trying to split a piece of the Red Gum I've used. There is so much interlocking fiber it doesn't split worth s^&t, which you all most likely already knew. I wouldn't try that with Rock Maple or some other North American hard wood, they split way too easy. So if you are tempted to try this, test the wood and see how easy it splits. A piece of wood 150mm in diameter spinning at 3000 rpm... The outer edge is moving at 24 meters/second if it breaks apart it can be assumed that the chunk will be moving at a similar speed. If that fails and hits you in the face... It's still a method that where some caution should be taken.

Also I have found that a bit of water on the face works well when lapping the back. The heat build up can cause the wax to stick to the steel causing it to grab too much. The small amount of water eliminates this and speeds the lapping of the back. When the steel starts grabbing again I just add more water and away I go.

I must try the water. I like the heat build up as it sort of liquifies the rough and makes for a smooth honing surface. The down side is when it cools its a bugger to get off quickly.

Have you tried your carving chisels?

Originally Posted by Lignum

I must try the water. I like the heat build up as it sort of liquifies the rough and makes for a smooth honing surface. The down side is when it cools its a bugger to get off quickly.

Have you tried your carving chisels?

I use a bit of thinners on a rag to take the wax off.

My carving chisels are next in line for a make over.

What speed did you have the lathe set at, TA?

Lig, what speed do you reckon is the go? I tried a MDF disc on the bench grinder but at that speed it seems a bit hairy... Also, not sure if you've covered this before, but what's your thoughts on using a MDF disc?


Cheers...................Sean

When I first read this I thought it was a reference to "Tit of the month" and it being a reference to "Doug the S"

Originally Posted by scooter

What speed did you have the lathe set at, TA?

Lig, what speed do you reckon is the go? I tried a MDF disc on the bench grinder but at that speed it seems a bit hairy... Also, not sure if you've covered this before, but what's your thoughts on using a MDF disc?


Cheers...................Sean

I tend to run it a bit slower at around 1500rpm on the lathe. Once in awhile when I'm impatient I'll crank it up to 2500 but I find the heat build up then to be a pain.

I don't think MDF would be a bad medium I'd attach it to the grinder like it was a regular grinding wheel (nut and washers...). I'd make the disk bigger to off set the use of the nut and washer.

Cheers TA, thinking about salvaging a washing machine motor, should run slower than the grinder.


Cheers.......................Sean

Originally Posted by scooter

Cheers TA, thinking about salvaging a washing machine motor, should run slower than the grinder.


Cheers.......................Sean

That would work well - should run just over 1400rpm

some washing machine motors can be run 4 pole - 1440 rpm or
8 pole -720 rpm

Thanks Matthew & Bob.


Cheers.............Sean

The one thing that concerns me, is i have read (on the other thread) that some are thinking of a disk but putting it on a tappered spindle. I would think it a bit dodgy having a wooden disk and "hard" hole being threaded onto a taper and the preasure is constantly trying to push it further in. If their was a weak spot in the timber the force would almost speed up failure. A buffing/canvas wheel is ok as they have plastic inserts and the canvas comes together with the centrifugal force but a hard spinning wheel will be very unstable. What do others think?