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  1. #1
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    Jan 2005
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    Default The Ultimate how made tool A PRESS

    Alright it is not home made but i will be building it at my factory, i am building a screw press for gluing of sheets the press will have a table size of 3.9x1.9mt and a stroke of 800mm and will have 12 individual screws / acme treads to get the pressure distributed.

    The press is based on a deign of an existing one that has a table size of 2.4x1.5.

    The base consist of 4 250 UC's bears weld together then a frame of 150x45 LVL joists @200mm cc, followed by 32mm particle board sheets.

    Photos will follow as build progresses, i have already cut the UC's to length and will be assembling the base next week, i will be getting a fitter & turner to make the thread rods and gear boxes, (any suggestions in Syd).

    all suggestions and crazy ideas welcome here, also when complete if you are in Syd it will be available for fellow woodies for that big veneering project and one offs.

    Photo 1 is a silmar idea i found on the net

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    Doing up all the screws will be a pain.
    Specially if your glue sets fast.
    Consider doing it pnuematically.
    Turn a tap and its pressed.
    Instead of rams use layflat fire hose in a channel.
    You'll only get 1 to 2" movement but so what.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
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    Default

    We are considering using a pneumatic / hyd set up but trying to keep it simple, possibility that we are looking at is using a series of 20t pneumatic jacks that will press against a frame, with movement of around 350mm.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Heck, for that matter you could use water pressure in the hose.

    I had a though about jacks for an edge joint panel press, and I don't think you would need very many. Just a few evenly spaced. It's not the outright pressure applied, but over how much area and how well the whole mess stays flat when loaded up.

    I think the good part about the hose would be that you could run a heap of it over the whole table area, making it fairly easy to avoid twisting (but flat could still pose a problem) and increase the specific pressure/area with a tiny $$ outlay and complication.

    Looks interesting...

  6. #5
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    Default

    thanks for the ideas, i found this fire hose press on the net, it could be possible to modify the design for use in a table press application, the only things that will need to worked on is a adjustable height for the top table and the size of the air compressor to inflate that many hoses, also are the valves in the hoses one way ie pump up then turn compressor off or on a sensor where it maintains the pressure.

  7. #6
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Tamworth
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    22

    Default What are you going to clamp in the press?

    What are you going to clamp in the press???????
    as that is a big press area


    Phil

  8. #7
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    Default Gaza

    Don't get carried away with the pressure required mate, vacuum presses work extremely well with a pressure of something less than 14.7 lbs/sqr inch.

  9. #8
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    the ones I've seen use a car tube stem (complete with valve) to connect the air to the layflat hose.
    So you blow the layflat up then you can turn the compressor off and the pressure remains.
    You would need to fit an air release valve so you can deflate it easy
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mac
    What are you going to clamp in the press???????
    as that is a big press area


    Phil
    Its main propose is doing custom size multi layer internal doors and its secondary use is veneering table tops.

    we are building it this big so we can do a 3600x1800 sheet which is the largest supplied generally.

    A vacuum bag is not an option with the planned number of glue ups a day.

  11. #10
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    Today i cut the base steel to length (300 UC's) then placed these on the ground, we then clamped some LVL's (150x45) to hold the beams in place they are at about 660mm CC.

    After the beams were clamped i used a laser level to level the steel frame, this required up to 25mm of packing under the steel beams to get them level.

  12. #11
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    To adjust the top table (put the hose in the bottom), attach a couple block and tackles to the roof frame (as long as it can take the weight, check first!) and have the uprights drilled to match the table at several heights. To adjust, crank the table up, insert a pin in the required hole and that's it. Make sure you use rated pins, and that it's all going to handle the pressure otherwise you might get little missiles running around the shop when the pins shear.

    Might also elongate the holes which coule be a problem. Either double layer or weld in braces around each hole. Basically a thick washer.

    Some spring pins to make sure the pins don't fall out might be a good idea too.

    You could use good bolts too, but make sure there's no thread where they go through the holes.

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