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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    No. I am using a carbide tipped blade and the cut is so smooth I don't need to joint between veneers.
    Thanks John.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    In fact I have been wondering if a single column of rollers just in front of the blade would do the job. Maybe I have over-engineered the job ... again.
    I'm giving this premise a crack!

    I moved the Laguna to its final place today (slow work, I'm a bit knackered at the moment!). Your jig has inspired me to soup up a few puzzle boxes with sexy timbers.

    Will report back, if you don't beat me to the punch.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanism View Post
    I'm giving this premise a crack!

    I moved the Laguna to its final place today (slow work, I'm a bit knackered at the moment!). Your jig has inspired me to soup up a few puzzle boxes with sexy timbers.

    Will report back, if you don't beat me to the punch.
    I have pulled up a chair ... boiled the billy ... and wait with bated breath.

    Not going to rework mine ... it works. But I would be surprised if a single column of rollers did not do a good job, providing they can "push" the board onto the fence a bit.

    Cheerio!

    John

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Had the same thought myself, Trav.

    Was prepared to put on another column of ball rollers if it was necessary. It is not. The darned thing works like a bought one.

    I think it is the "push" of the rubber behind the ball rollers that does the trick. I have been watching the board where it contacts the fence. Even after the board clears the first column of rollers, the board sits flat on the fence. I have pulled off veneers between 0.6 and 0.4 mm without the problem you mention, even with very wide boards.

    In fact I have been wondering if a single column of rollers just in front of the blade would do the job. Maybe I have over-engineered the job ... again.

    Cheerio!

    John
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  6. #20
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    All these years later, and I am still using that prototype jig, and it still works like a bought one.

    Has anyone come up with improvements. Always looking for a better way.

  7. #21
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    Thanks for sharing your jig, John. What type of soft rubber did you use between your rollers and the jig. Was it similar to neoprene in softness or harder ?

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    Thanks for sharing your jig, John. What type of soft rubber did you use between your rollers and the jig. Was it similar to neoprene in softness or harder ?
    I bought the rubber in a 25 mm wide strip, from Clark Rubber. It is the softest rubber they had apart from the spongy stuff. At the time I thought the spongy stuff might not "rebound" quickly enough, but now reckon it would likely be OK. The soft rubber is key to the success of the jig, because it applies constant pressure which holds the work piece against the fence. As the tooth marks pass over the rollers, they can move a tad to keep constant pressure on the work piece. Magik!

  9. #23
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    Thought I'd update this thread with some notes on re-sawing.

    In recent times I've bought a fair bit of timber as 50 mm slabs or boards. Done a fair bit of converting 50 mm boards into two thinner boards on the bandsaw.

    First I dress both sides and either one or both edges, depending on the job. Then I set up the fence and the jig to get the blade dead centre in the board/slab. The jig holds the timber against the fence. All I need to do is to lean on the end to push it through the saw.

    Re-sawed some 2,400 X 150 X 50 mm boards this week. For this job I was standing 2.4 M away from the blade at the start of the cut. It worked like a charm.

    If you find yourself cutting veneers or re-sawing boards, a jig like this is well worth considering. I reckon you need only one row of ball rollers, immediately in front of the blade.

  10. #24
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    I found a video with a similar jig


  11. #25
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    It is similar, Johnknee, but mine is a lot simpler. They both work.

  12. #26
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    I bought some of those rollers and put them on a jig a few months ago but did not try it out until today. Had a need to produce some silky oak veneer so gave it a go and it turned out quite well.

    The timber was only 100 mm wide and my jig is a bit different but even so I'm impressed with the fact that it cut quite consistent veneers at 0.75mm thickness.

    I had a few goes at getting the thickness set and also found that at the end of the cut the timber block tended to twist away from the fence but it was all good once I worked things out.

    Might need to make a higher version for cutting wider veneers.

    Thanks for starting this thread John, and also for the follow up post that brought it to my attention.

    Veneer jig set up.jpg Veneer thickness .jpg
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  13. #27
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    Just saw your post, Bob.

    Looks good!

  14. #28
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    Here's my conversion of the standard fence that came with the saw. The standard fence is not tall enough for resawing and cutting veneers. I could buy an OEM item, providing I was willing to sell a kidney or a grandchild to pay for it. Pass ... I'll make it.

    I had a kitchen cabinet door that was removed when installing a dishwasher for my son. It is HMR particleboard with melamine veneers.

    You will notice the fence has a triangle shaped hollow.

    I cut a piece of cedar so it would fit into the hollow fence. Then I drilled three holes through the fence after rebating them. Then these holes were used as a template. The fence was clamped to the piece of particleboard so I could drill through the fence and into the wood. Tee nuts were driven into the holes in the wood, Then the new 225 mm high fence was bolted to the tee nuts in the piece of cedar whilst inside the fence.

    Works like a bought one.

    IMG20231002114254.jpg

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