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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    No. I am using a carbide tipped blade and the cut is so smooth I don't need to joint between veneers.
    Thanks John.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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  3. #17
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    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    In fact I have been wondering if a single column of rollers just in front of the blade would do the job. Maybe I have over-engineered the job ... again.
    I'm giving this premise a crack!

    I moved the Laguna to its final place today (slow work, I'm a bit knackered at the moment!). Your jig has inspired me to soup up a few puzzle boxes with sexy timbers.

    Will report back, if you don't beat me to the punch.

  4. #18
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    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanism View Post
    I'm giving this premise a crack!

    I moved the Laguna to its final place today (slow work, I'm a bit knackered at the moment!). Your jig has inspired me to soup up a few puzzle boxes with sexy timbers.

    Will report back, if you don't beat me to the punch.
    I have pulled up a chair ... boiled the billy ... and wait with bated breath.

    Not going to rework mine ... it works. But I would be surprised if a single column of rollers did not do a good job, providing they can "push" the board onto the fence a bit.

    Cheerio!

    John

  5. #19
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    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Had the same thought myself, Trav.

    Was prepared to put on another column of ball rollers if it was necessary. It is not. The darned thing works like a bought one.

    I think it is the "push" of the rubber behind the ball rollers that does the trick. I have been watching the board where it contacts the fence. Even after the board clears the first column of rollers, the board sits flat on the fence. I have pulled off veneers between 0.6 and 0.4 mm without the problem you mention, even with very wide boards.

    In fact I have been wondering if a single column of rollers just in front of the blade would do the job. Maybe I have over-engineered the job ... again.

    Cheerio!

    John
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  6. #20
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    All these years later, and I am still using that prototype jig, and it still works like a bought one.

    Has anyone come up with improvements. Always looking for a better way.

  7. #21
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    Thanks for sharing your jig, John. What type of soft rubber did you use between your rollers and the jig. Was it similar to neoprene in softness or harder ?

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    Thanks for sharing your jig, John. What type of soft rubber did you use between your rollers and the jig. Was it similar to neoprene in softness or harder ?
    I bought the rubber in a 25 mm wide strip, from Clark Rubber. It is the softest rubber they had apart from the spongy stuff. At the time I thought the spongy stuff might not "rebound" quickly enough, but now reckon it would likely be OK. The soft rubber is key to the success of the jig, because it applies constant pressure which holds the work piece against the fence. As the tooth marks pass over the rollers, they can move a tad to keep constant pressure on the work piece. Magik!

  9. #23
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    Thought I'd update this thread with some notes on re-sawing.

    In recent times I've bought a fair bit of timber as 50 mm slabs or boards. Done a fair bit of converting 50 mm boards into two thinner boards on the bandsaw.

    First I dress both sides and either one or both edges, depending on the job. Then I set up the fence and the jig to get the blade dead centre in the board/slab. The jig holds the timber against the fence. All I need to do is to lean on the end to push it through the saw.

    Re-sawed some 2,400 X 150 X 50 mm boards this week. For this job I was standing 2.4 M away from the blade at the start of the cut. It worked like a charm.

    If you find yourself cutting veneers or re-sawing boards, a jig like this is well worth considering. I reckon you need only one row of ball rollers, immediately in front of the blade.

  10. #24
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    Newcastle, NSW
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    I found a video with a similar jig


  11. #25
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    It is similar, Johnknee, but mine is a lot simpler. They both work.

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