Thread: WOODWORKING QUIZ for Feb. 5th 2005

Ive seen this done many years ago by a supplier who made for a brewery.Well- seasoned oak is used. Its cut into lengths of about 3' by 3-4" wide. each length is tapered and then the inside face is hollowed or dished by hand. The lengths are then steamed and placed side by side around the inside of the bottom of one of two iron rings forming a tight fitting circular fence. No adhesive is used or biscuit joints, this is true craftsmsnship.
Then the second iron ring is placed over the top and hammerd down until wedged and as the inside of each length has been dished, the barrel shape is formed as the top ring is hammered down.
The hole is cut and bunged and the barrel is tested using water pressure The guy told me that very few leaks occur and as the coopers of old used to cut taper and dish the planks by hand this surely is testament to their skill.
Im not sure if the inside of the barrel is smoked or burned but I think something is done to ensure the oak flavour is taken up by whatever is matured in the barrel.
beejay1

For a coopered tub you won't need to steam bend the staves as you would for a barrel. I spoke to the bloke at Schmeider's cooperage a few years ago (he does all the barrels for Bundy rum) and quizzed him about tools and methodology. They've got a video running showing how it's done in the traditional way with special cooper specific planes ets. Nowadays though it's done with a bandsaw, jointer and router.

For a tub, larger at the top than the base I would proceed as follows:
Draw out the base full size and calculate the bevel required on the staves.
Work out the taper required on the staves.
Rip the staves down, preferably so as to get two staves from one board, ie: top to tail.
Set jointer fence to required angle and plane bevel.
Dock ends of staves to correct angle.
Cut trench in small end of stave to take base.
Joint boards for base and cut to make circle.
Reduce the circular edge of these base boards so they are a tight fit in the staves. You could use a plane, but I think I would temporarily nail some battens across to hold it all together and then use a panel raising bit.
Place the base, upside down on a support the height of the finished tub.
Lay the staves around in position (it might pay to have a guide ring at the bottom to hold them in position, or possibly a circular groove in a piece of ply).
Place the base ring in position around the tub and hammer into place (this was traditionally done with the ring cherry red hot). Once this ring is home the staves will be held tight against the base.
Position and drive home the top and any intermediate rings.
The tub will leak initially but once the water swells the wood fibres any leaks will take up.

Mick.

I know this isn't the answer ralph was looking for.

But for those that are interested it is worth a look,
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=13670

Tim

Thank you gentlepersons. I am sorry but I seem to be having computer problems and it would seem that I am going to have to acquire the services of a young person. Whilst replies to my coopering question have been few in number, the quality has been very good thank you. If I had asked how to cooper a barrel then Mr. Mick would have been given the NOD. However, I believe a "TUB" was the required object and, although I cannot get the link to work on my ancient apparatus, I believe that Mr. 40 has got the idea and therefore upon him I hereby bestow the NOD!

Ahem! Mick was explaining how to do tub not a barrel.

Humble apologies for interfering.

Not Ralph,
how do you define a tub? I was under the assumption that what I described, a flat bottomed, round based vessel with flaring sides (ie: top larger than base) was a tub. If what I've described is not a tub then please explain what is. :confused:

Mick

Snap!!!

Give poor old Mr/Mrs/Ms unRalph a break, his/her/it's computer is not well & he/she/it aren't into BIG answers 'cos it's too much to read all the way through.

Mr Mick, I humbly apologise for my foolishness! Not only were you absolutely correct but you were also absolutely very descriptive.

Upon Mr. Mick I bestow the NOD for his wonderful answer but I also must also give Mr. Mick the Bowed head of APOLOGY.

This Not Ralph person is a real whiz, I've never seen anyone eat so much crow without choking. :eek: Its a bit of a shock on this forum. The only thing that would shock me more would be for to post: I hereby humbly forgive all you sacriligous, swearing, racist, misogynistic, xenophobic, homophobic, pack of idiot ratbags, and that aint ever going to happen.

Originally Posted by Termite

The only thing that would shock me more would be for to post: I hereby humbly forgive all you sacriligous, swearing, racist, misogynistic, xenophobic, homophobic, pack of idiot ratbags, and that aint ever going to happen.

Deep, deep, deep down I am sure forgives us Termite but that doesn't stop him editing our posts or swinging his delete battle axe.


Peter.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Give poor old Mr/Mrs/Ms unRalph a break, his/her/it's computer is not well & he/she/it aren't into BIG answers 'cos it's too much to read all the way through.

Ok Cliffy, fess up.
You are NotRalph.

Otherwise how do you know, his/her/it's computer is not well & he/she/it aren't into BIG answers 'cos it's too much to read all the way through?????

Caught out!!

Al

Originally Posted by ozwinner

Ok Cliffy, fess up.
You are NotRalph.

Otherwise how do you know, his/her/it's computer is not well & he/she/it aren't into BIG answers 'cos it's too much to read all the way through?????

Caught out!!

Al

Nope.... see here....

Originally Posted by NotRalph

....(without using Google Mr Rogers!) .....

& here....

Originally Posted by NotRalph

...... I am sorry but I seem to be having computer problems and....

You weren't paying attention to detail Al.

I reckon Cliffypoos is a prime candidate for Ralphness...... why??????/ coz they both seem a tad PEDANTIC!