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28th October 2013, 04:01 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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How to do butt joints with Domino FQ500?
I have a 2.1 m length of 68 x 34 pine that I want to do butt joints at 300m intervals. The pieces to be joined to this long piece are the same cross sectional dimensions, but 300mm long.
I have marked the lines of the butted piece on the rail, and need to put the floating tenon exactly in between these lines. ( see attached pics below). I cannot find a neat way of doing this with the Domino, without making an offset line at each joint centreline and holding the base of the Domino on it before plunging and cutting. I have fitted the Trim Guide so that the long rail is central.
the problem is with the Domino in the vertical position, you cannot see any lines or reference points under it on the workpiece. ( make sense?)
Can anyone please advise if there is a simpler and quicker way of making this joint with the Domino so that it sits exactly in the the centre of the joint, when measured from any edge?
I have searched online, especially the Gary Katz web site, but found nothing on how to do this joint
P1150128 (Large).JPGP1150129 (Large).jpgP1150130 (Large).JPGregards,
Dengy
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28th October 2013 04:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th October 2013, 04:35 PM #2
Dengy, how about clamping a piece of scrap across another piece of scrap at 90° and then butt the base of the Domino against it, drill the hole, and then measure the distance from scrap to hole. Once you know what that is you can clamp a piece the same distance from your lines.
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28th October 2013, 05:03 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Yeah, FF, thanks for this. Looks like the way to go, but I was trying to avoid clamping things, in the hope the Domino was built to do this somehow without marking offsets or clamping timber to the workpiece. I just wanted to work off the two lines of the piece to be butt jointed as in the pics.
Incidentally, the distance from the base of the Domino to the centre of the hole is always 10mm, no matter what bit size is used. Easy enough to draw a reference line 10mm away from the centreline of the mortice hole.
Found this interesting article from the Wood Whisperer Forum which helps too.regards,
Dengy
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28th October 2013, 05:13 PM #4
Hi Dengy,
If you look at the bottom of the soul plate of the Domino, there will be a line scribed at the center of the plate. That is your centre line and so if you draw a line on the wood which is dead centre and match it to that line, then vertically, you are centred.
Horizontally, the centre of the cutter is 10mm from the bottom of the base. If you draw horizontal lines 10mm below the point you want the centre of the mortise to be, then line the base up with this line, you will get the cut exactly where you want it. So that's the easy way of centreing on a rail. I have done it many times and it works. 'Course you could fluff around with blocks of wood if you want.
Regards,
Rob
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28th October 2013, 05:40 PM #5
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28th October 2013, 05:41 PM #6
But I'm a soul man!!
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28th October 2013, 07:12 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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'Course you could fluff around with blocks of wood if you want.
Anyway, I followed up on your suggestions, and worked out where the reference lines were ( which were the position of the centre lines for each joint, minus 10mm offset), marked them on the rails, and will apply the Domino first thing tomorrow. The only lines showings along the rail now show where to put the base of the Domino in the vertical position. Easy peasy. But will check them again before making any mortice holes
Thanks for all your help guys.regards,
Dengy
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28th October 2013, 11:01 PM #81 legged lumberjack
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this is a great little tutorial
Domino Butt-Joint to a line ~ Half-Inch Shy
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29th October 2013, 01:54 AM #9
Geez you like making life hard for yourself
a wood spacer -- cut to the right length AND square -- takes away the need to
- measure and mark the location of each mortice
- align the machine's base plate with your marked line
while the Domino cuts a far superior joint to a plate (biscuit) jointer, the proven methods for spacing and aligning biscuits also apply when using the Domino
- when edge joining, layout merely requires using a pencil to mark the centre line of each pair of mortices
- use a spacer or alignment board when joining pieces at right angles.
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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30th October 2013, 08:17 PM #10Member
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Distance from Bottom of the Domino
I thought the distance changes with the change in the bit.
and this i got from a Festool rep about 3 years ago.
I have always used the 5mm bit and i get 8 mm from the bottom of the board to the edge of the hole that it makes.
If you do have an exact 10mm distance, then i will mark the lines, and use the self centering jig to handle thin pieces to ensure that the hole is always perpendicular and aligned correctly.
best regards
Harender
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31st October 2013, 01:25 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Harender, the distance will always be 10mm from the edge of the baseplate to the centreline of the mortice slot. The distance to the edge of the slot will vary according to the size of the bit. If you are using a 5mm bit, the distance to the nearest edge of the hole with be exactly 7.5mm, and 12.5mm to the far edge of the hole.
regards,
Dengy
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1st November 2013, 07:51 AM #12Member
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Thanks
Hi There,
I realised that a bit late, as i saw some of the links that were attached after i had typed my comments, "measure twice, cut once" should be rewritten as "read twice, type once" for people like me.
Thank you though for your clarification. Incidentally, mine is always 8 mm to the edge of the hole, so i guess it is off by 0.5mm and this has been the case from the very beginning.
I use the domino in every project and am always surprised at how accurately you can get a position hole with very little effort.
Just an afterthought on what this original thread was about.
I presume you want to make a face frame for a cabinet so you will have two of these "2.1 m length of 68 x 34 pine" with butt joints on each of the rails, to position the "studs" for lack of a better word.
If so, you can
1.Build a jig
a. Take two of the rail pieces say 300 mm long,
b. Lay them on either side of your live rail (which has been wrapped around with a single layer of kitchen paper towel, gives just enough gap tp slide in and out smoothly)
c. nail two more pieces of any material to either side of your jigs so that they done move
d. you have to ensure that atleast one of these "bridges" is perpendicular to the two side rails
e. mark a line on the edge of any one of them (your choice of location for the line).
f. mark a centre line on the "bridge" that you will be using to reference the domino
2. Lay the two live rails side by side and mark a line across both of them at the same time to ensure the relative position on both is the same. If you need the distance to be exact 300 mm, then you have no option but to mark initially using a ruler before you draw the line across both of the live rail. Else, eyeball it and keep notching lines along the length of the rail.
3. Reference these lines to the edge notch that you have done on your jig, clamp the rail to lock ensuring it does not move on the jig and domino away (you have to use the centre line marked on the bridge to center the domino).
If you do this with relative care, you will end up with two rails having the domino holes exactly in the same reference position as the other twin.
I built a similar jig myself and use it regularly to reference a hole from the bottom of a baluster piece that i use regularly in my projects.
Hope this helps and apologies for the dribble if it does not, let me know if you need me to take a photo of my jig for you.
Thanks
Harender
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