Thread: Festool circular saw advice

Hey mate,

I was in your exact position a few years ago. I ended up going with the TS75 so I could cut thick slabs as well as sheet goods. I have used it to cut 50mm Jarrah slabs and it went through like butter. At the moment I'm using it to make cabinets and it's so quick and easy to rip sheet goods. I have used the TS55 and find it easier to handle especially on sheet goods however you are limited to the thickness of stock you use.

It's one of my most used tools at the moment and it's been invaluable recently with all the cabinets I'm making. If you do choose to buy one have a look at "shop made MFT's". I have almost finished making one and it's so handy to have.

Cheers.

Hi,

This is quite a common question asked on the Festool Owners Group forum (check it out if you don't know about it). In the end a lot of people like the flexibility and easy handling of the '55. Saw blades are also cheaper. The '55 has plenty of power, so probably depth of cut is more the question I'd be asking.

Also, for sure check out the MFT as this is probably an "essential" that helps you get so much more out of your track saw. If you're on a budget, just buy the MFT top (or get one CNC made), buy some QWAS Dogs (or equivalent such as Precision Dogs), some rail dogs, and then build your own base. You'll probably get as much out of a DIY MFT (around $350 all up?) with the dogs than the factory unit ($1000+).

Cheers.

Thanks for your comments. I've just now come back from Carbatec. They have a huge display of festool, so I got to examine both the 75 and the 55. I decided to go with the 75 and I bought an extra 1400mm track. I found the 75 to be heavier, but didn't seem all that much heavier. This way I'll have the flexibility of a deeper cut If I ever put it under a table.

I'll check out the diy MFT too. I played with a festool one in store. Although cool, I like the idea of spending $700 less and making one myself.

My wife has already asked if I can get rid of my makita cross cut saw to help fund the purchase. Does sound plausible, but I don't think I'll make any hasty decisions just yet. After all, I've only just finished the dust enclosure cupboard for it! (See dust extraction section of the forum)

Make sure you join Festool Owners Group (FOG) forum as it is very useful, and very friendly, and Festool USA reps are always there to give good advice.

I don't have a SCMS but used to sometimes borrow a Bosch 10 inch. It spewed dust everywhere (so I really shouldn't have used it inside the garage! ). Now I use the TS55REBQ with a Karcher shop vac attached and it is almost dustless. Having worked like this (ie dust free) now with all its advantages, and being able to cross cut large pieces easily, I don't think I'd be giving up the garage space to a SCMS of my own. For my level of home DIY use I can't really justfiy the cost of the Kapex to get dust free either. I have the angle unit on the MFT, but don't really need it as I rarely do anything but 90 degrees and 45 degrees anyway (which is easy with bench dogs).

The MFT (or equivalent) is extremely helpful for cutting smaller pieces, cutting square, preventing tearout, and to be able to get repeatability of cuts (easy to clamp stop blocks anywhere on the bench surface). Even if you don't get an MFT, you can make an extremely simple jig from a board 3 holes and 2 rail dogs to cut square and certain (aligned with a kerf mark) every time (check out Peter Parfitt on YouTube).

If you make your own MFT, then check out the "Mobile MFT Cart" which is quite cool, and one of the posts lower down in this subforum is also really nice. Feel free to PM me on the FOG (same username).

Cool. Thanks for the advice. I feel like a member of a secret society! Is there a secret handshake?

Wow...I just cut a straight, quick, smooth 1mm thick slice from the 40mm thick Australian Oak table top that I'm building!!

Originally Posted by johnredl

Wow...I just cut a straight, quick, smooth 1mm thick slice from the 40mm thick Australian Oak table top that I'm building!!

Hah hah, the smile that comes from quality precision tools.

I don't know if you were ripping or cross-cutting, and I have been using the multi purpose 48 tooth blade for everything to date, but apparently highly recommended is the 12 tooth "Panther" blade for ripping, as it allows all the material to exit quickly and helps avoid burn marks. I think I'll get myself one and save the 48 tooth for when it's best suited. The TS75 equivalent is 16 tooth here.

I would hang onto your SCMS. While the Festool is a great machine, when you are docking material, particularly smaller stuff like mouldings or something like 12 x 42 stock the SCMS will be the way to go. Different story on the wider boards, but you will still get a better (angle) result and quicker set up with SCMS.

Wish I had a SCMS at home.

Originally Posted by eddomak

Hah hah, the smile that comes from quality precision tools.

I don't know if you were ripping or cross-cutting, and I have been using the multi purpose 48 tooth blade for everything to date, but apparently highly recommended is the 12 tooth "Panther" blade for ripping, as it allows all the material to exit quickly and helps avoid burn marks. I think I'll get myself one and save the 48 tooth for when it's best suited. The TS75 equivalent is 16 tooth here.

I was ripping. The only blade I have is the 36 tooth that came with it. The budget hasn't stretched far enough to allow an extra blade! It did cut effortlessly without burn marks tho.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

I would hang onto your SCMS. While the Festool is a great machine, when you are docking material, particularly smaller stuff like mouldings or something like 12 x 42 stock the SCMS will be the way to go. Different story on the wider boards, but you will still get a better (angle) result and quicker set up with SCMS.

Wish I had a SCMS at home.

Fair point. I was thinking much along the same lines.

I think I'll end up building a MFT, but I can see how they are different.

Just found a link to some good pictures about how some dogs are used:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...85&cat=1,41637

05G4950s03.jpg
In the first picture you can see all you need are 3 x 20mm holes in a board (existing benchtop, or just sheet of ply) for 3 dogs (2 tall, 1 short) to make a consistently square cut with minimal setup - even if you drill through an existing benchtop or just a sheet of ply.

Excellent than you for the pic. Next project I think. Do u know if u can buy the track that's around the outside of the MFT?

Originally Posted by johnredl

Excellent than you for the pic. Next project I think. Do u know if u can buy the track that's around the outside of the MFT?

Yes it's possible to do so - I think if you search the Festool Owner's Group for "Home Made MFT" someone put the part numbers up there. There was someone in Australia who managed to get a top CNC'd for only around $80.

Having said this, the main things you the track is used for are:
(1) support the attachments for the guide rail (back pivot, front support)
(2) support attachments for the fence
(3) supporting the angle attachment for the fence
(3) clamping elements

If you decide that dogs are all you need (since they act as a fence, and rail alignment, and can forgoe the nice pivoting action (which is very useful) and the front support means you don't need to find a piece of scrap to support the rail in front and behind the piece, then you probably can go with a more generic (ie financially cheaper) option like an Incra or Kreg track. Actually, now that I've written it, I think I've convinced myself that the rail pivot and support are probably the best parts, so probably not worth trying to economise that much unless desperate.

When counting up the cost of a home made MFT remember that the facotry MFT does come with the shorter 1080 rail as well, which is more manouvreable for those shorter cuts.

Here is the link to the FoG Australian Home Made MFT thread.

Congratulations on your new Festool saw.