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23rd June 2006, 03:13 AM #121.
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Originally Posted by patr
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23rd June 2006 03:13 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd June 2006, 03:19 AM #122.
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And riri (sorry ill refrain from calling you my dear } your idea for elongated slots and mine for Cat-holes are just the begining. It wont be long before all the mags are full of tips and unusual practices for the Domi
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23rd June 2006, 10:21 AM #123
Lignum
You are obviously giving it a good work out. I would be interesed to know how long the bits stay sharp?
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23rd June 2006, 10:48 AM #124.
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Howdy Matt The 10mm cutter has done an enormous amount of work in the last four weeks into lots of different timber from tough old hard Jarrah to soft oily African Rosewood and being tungsten tipped it is still as sharp and fresh as the day i got it. The pic of the Tas-Oak Anvil i posted above was like a hot knife into butter even after all the cutting it has done. I think the main difference is it isnt a screamer and the rpm`s arnt high (a delight on the ears )and with the side to side action their is no friction and/or heat build up in the mortice. The dust it creates are like breadcrumbs, rather unusual. With the cronic volume of work im finding for her to do every day (mainly because i just cant keep my grubbie hands of her ) i would be happy if it was two months before each sharpen, but the reality is i should get more than double that
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23rd June 2006, 08:57 PM #125Originally Posted by martrix
Mate, Pal, Lignum ol' mate: Stoppit
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23rd June 2006, 09:33 PM #126
Martin,
I was a bit disconcerted when you said that there was about 0.3 mm of slop when the domino is inserted into the mortice. That sounds excessive to me, I rout mortices using stand-sized spiral bits, and cut tenons with a dado set, yielding tenons that are within 0.1 mm of the thickness of the mortice; otherwise, I make floating tenon stock with a similar tolerance using my thicknesser and rounding over the ends on the router table. It seems to me that having 0.3 mm of slop would detract from the strength of the joint unless you were using a gap-filling glue, like epoxy.
Rocker
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23rd June 2006, 11:01 PM #127.
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Rocker, from memory Martin only borrowed it for a couple of days and was probbably just getting a feel for it as he did say the unusual side action ment you need to hold it firmly. The 0.3 he refered to would have been the lateral movement which on mine is absoulutly precise with zero tolerance, its on the two wider settings its bigger. PM Groggy and ask him about the amazing fit and tolerance of the block i sent him. The tolerance with this machine is so good you can join a pre-veneered MDF board edge to edge and their is no ridge at all. Just perfect. Thats always the best test to see if your biscuit joiner is up to speed. So dont be disconcerted and put an extra lotto ticket in for Saturday, you never know
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23rd June 2006, 11:04 PM #128.
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Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon
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23rd June 2006, 11:18 PM #129
Hi Rocker/Lignum
Lignum is spot on. There is absolutely no movement at all on the first setting and the dominos are a tight fit. That is why they fluted them like dowels to retain the glue. The next two settings allow for sideways (but not up or down) movement as an aid to lining up over a long piece but I havent used either as the first setting is so accurate and remains so even on a long run. As I said in an earlier thread it can be a bugger to prise apart on a dry run such is the precision of the fit. Mind you, like all tools you must ensure that the work piece is firmly clamped and that you have control of the Domino otherwise it is possible that some movement could occur. But that is down to the individual. Up to now mine has been 100% accurate.
Regards
Pat
Creoso
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24th June 2006, 01:02 AM #130Senior Member
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Hi everyone,
I was having difficulty stabilizing the Domino with the suction hose connected ( because of the weight of the hose ). So i took a piece of wire rod i had. About one meter above the CT i forced the rod to make a square ( well more or less ) and i fitted the square with PVC plastic tubes. Cost= 0.
I put the hose and the cable in it and the result is fantastic. The hose rolls against the tubes when you need more distance. It is also great with the plunge saw to avoid the hose being stuck against the edges of the rails.:eek:
Cheers,
riri
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24th June 2006, 04:39 AM #131
Lignum/Patr,
Thanks for the reassurance regarding the fit of the dominos. As I have mentioned earlier, I would love to own a Domino, but its only advantage to me would be in convenience and saving of time - I can achieve comparable accuracy with my morticing jig. But, being retired, and being merely a hobbyist, time is not an issue for me, since I am not attempting to make a living from my woodwork.
Rocker
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27th June 2006, 10:01 PM #132.
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For the Dominatrix users who might have missed it. How to Domi a 3-way miter
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=33718
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27th June 2006, 10:34 PM #133
I love it Lignum - everyone needs to have a look at that link and see some of the Domino possibilities. Excellent work.
Lignum - check PM.
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27th June 2006, 11:45 PM #134
Lignum
Thats a cracking set of photos which go to show just how versatile the Domino is. Top marks!
Pat
Simou!! Quick old chap, pinch Lignums photos, send them to Festool in Deutschland and say 'look what Pat has done with the Vundertool and ask if he could have a Rotax 150 (with a secure power cable, no flying discs and a robust connector for his CT Mini ) as a token of appreciation.
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28th June 2006, 12:12 AM #135.
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Thanx Pat and Simou. It just gets better by the day. Im now 100% convinced that this machine is the future for all workshops, its just a matter of time before other manufacturers (like they did with the Lamello) get around the copyright and start getting them out to the masses. And its good for your health as im starting to get mussles on my mussels on my forearm I love my Domi
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