Thread: kapex

According to Klaus, Fester should have no problem with the change in orientation. Klaus himself has done compound mitres at 15 degrees mitre and 45 vbevel os 25mm deep Gerronggang. I would agree with the concept of turning down the speed, but not too far. Say about speed mark#4

Regards,

The LGS

You should not have the angle change part way through the cut.

I have to ask the obvious - did you lock the head in place using the back (flap) lock lever? Could it have not been fully engaged?

Is the wood flat, cupped wood will give this impression.

yes I locked it but i will do more work tomorrow on a few more test pieces to verify.
The obvious seems very feasable but as I made a few test pieces I made sure the top flap was on lock.
I turned the speed down a little and this time I cut a piece longer then trimmed this seemed to work better giving an even cut all the way through.
I did some more tilt angles and ran the saw very slow not pushing

I will try some more tomorrow and I hope the saw is fine. To start the lazor was not correct Im a little concerned with my machine and I hope all is up to specification.
If I find tomorrow all my sliding cuts are fine I will post reply thankyou all your tips are very usefull and a constant reminder of good working habits

The wood was not perfectly milled I just ran it through the buzzer so its only got one straight edge but It was pine.

another question on the top are three setting -45degree + 45 degree and another what do the mean? is it something to do with internal and external angle or using the tilt on one side for a positive cut and the other for negative cut I was playing around a little with these settings wondering what the difference may be of coarse I could get out the manuel but maybe someone may explain better than the books thankyou all. As yet I have not adjusted the lazor I have been puting the blade to a .5mm pencil mark till it touches so very close with my cuts.

Originally Posted by rmartens

another question on the top are three setting -45degree + 45 degree and another what do the mean?

The green knob on the top enables or disables the positive stops for the bevel adjustment. In the 0-45 setting, the bevel moves from left 45 degrees to zero, but stops at the zero setting (90 degrees to the cut). In the +/-45 setting, the bevel will go from left 45 through 0 (90 degrees) and all the way to right 45 degrees without having a positive stop at 90. In the +/- 47 setting, all positive stops are disabled and the bevel can go the full span of the saw, which is 47 degrees left and right.

One thing to note is that these are not hard stops, and you can move the saw past them with a little extra force. For this reason, keeping the dial set to the 0-45 setting is a good default setting. If you needed a setting of just one or two degrees to the right, then you would find it easier to disable that positive stop.
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P.S. As to your original question, this is something you would see if you plunged the blade down into the cut, and then pulled the saw towards you. You could also get this if you inadvertently pushed the motor head sideways during the cut. This is easy to do without realizing it when you are making a beveled cut.

The best way when making a bevel cut, or any other for that matter, is to pull the saw forward before plunging it down, and then smoothly pushing it back toward the fence. However, if the workpiece was standing up against the fence, then you would just plunge straight down.

Could you post a pic?

Rob

yes I wll post a pc when I get back home. Thankyou for than information lgs.
I did some cuts with an old jarrah piece 72mm by 23mm on a 45degree tilt and set on 4
I slowly let the machine do the work and after that even cut a shimmer and made sure the top stop was locked and made sure I was not putting a down pressure on the machine forcing a flex. I found on the end it was a true square but on the inside was a bit less than 1mm out of true

I have to say that it took a bit of fluffing around to bet the angles right. I found cutting the sides for a tray (45 bevel and 15 mitre) gave me a good reference. Once all sides matched all was well and the cut was spectacular.
I also tried dropping the speed, but for another reason. On my LS1214 I can cut with the grain to obtain thin slivers from timber. I tried this on the Kapex at mark #6 and got the worst kickback I've ever had. Two weeks on and I still have the scar. I dropped the speed to #4 and got results using a straight cut, but I am not sure that I wouldn't get some bowing of the face as a result of the lower speed, though the face is brilliantly smooth. I think I would not use the fine cut blade for this purpose. In fact, from my experience with 80 tooth and above blades on the Makita, there seems to be a law of diminishing returns. The more teeth, the more likey you are to find that a mitre has a bowing issue. In fairness, I have no proof of any of this, just my gut feeling on how the saw feels at lower speed. What you are seeing with the slow cut and lower speed may be explaiined by the above ramblings.

Regards,

Rob

I got some photos for some work I did today and ran a piece of jarrah through the buzzer to make both ends straight er how do you insert an image? The results were a lot better but still out a little using a lower speed I found 5 was okay for the old jarrah as 4 seemed a little too slow its hard to tell on the photo but it is slightly out less than 1 mm
Im not sure if I would be able to get it any better. So you think more teeth in a blade is not necessary a good thing on tilt cuts?

Now I got my cuts to within a mil Im not sure I can get it any better.
As much as I could I tried to cut avoiding flex.

You mentioned test pieces earlier on in this thread, were these all Jarrah? I know you want to get the Jarrah sorted and have, but have you cut a control piece successfully to your level of satisfaction? Maybe some thick ply, MDF, even something that is not timber like the poly kitchen chopping board.

Doing this may eliminate the KAPEX as the problem, or prove it needs adjustment or has an fault. Once a control piece is 100%, then back to the Jarrah to see if it can be cut spot-on.

Just a thought.

Originally Posted by nt900

You mentioned test pieces earlier on in this thread, were these all Jarrah? I know you want to get the Jarrah sorted and have, but have you cut a control piece successfully to your level of satisfaction? Maybe some thick ply, MDF, even something that is not timber like the poly kitchen chopping board.

Doing this may eliminate the KAPEX as the problem, or prove it needs adjustment or has an fault. Once a control piece is 100%, then back to the Jarrah to see if it can be cut spot-on.

Just a thought.

thats good advice you should try that

Thanks for that I will try that tomorrow.
The first test piece was on pine and only straight on one end but it wondered although I did not cut the piece super slow but still letting the machine do the work. The later work I ran real slow making sure not to put downward pressure on the machine.
I love the machine it is good. And maybe this may be something fester can look at when making their next model.
And today I think I will settle and call my machine Klaus Ya dat is goot ya?