Thread: Best tool for this job?

If you are going to strip a table surface, I would look at a chemical paint stripper in the first instance. I think it will be way faster and there is less likelihood of sanding too far in places.

If you must sand it instead, the Rotex will get the job done quicker. However, if you are looking to buy one of the machines, think about what the projected use will be. The Rotex with its 2 operating modes can be a rotary sander/polisher ( with orbital action while it rotates) and also a random orbit sander like the ETS 150. However he Rotex has a longer stroke of 7 mm vs the ETS 125 of 3 or 5 MM.

I have to say though, I am finding the Rotex increasingly invaluable. On my current project I have used the Rotex to fine tune the finish - going to 4000 grit in ROS mode, then in rotary mode, using the felt pad to apply and rub EEE Ultra shine and then U Beaut Traditional wax. I then used the lambswool pad to buff up the finish.

The Rotex is not as aggressive as a full blown rotary polisher which is good because they generate way too much heat on the surface ( as I found out the hard way). Its orbital motion also ensures that the holographic lines are minimised.

For such finish as sits on the top of the wood it's hard to beat a coarsely burred scraper.

But if it's a finish that has soaked in and you want it all gone, you're up for wood removal and I start with a belt sander on the flats.

If on the other hand it's an antique removing the patina will reduce its value.

I'm unfamiliar with this type of finish. As was already touched on, some caution is in order when sanding tough finishes so you don't damage wood, especially if it is a veneered surface. Also if you're looking to buy one of these tools I'd think beyond this one job to make a good decision on what sander best fits your everyday needs.

I think both sanders can do the job (unless I'm underestimating how hard it is to sand this finish). If the piece is solid wood and the finish is really stubborn the Rotex in rotary mode could be the better choice. The abrasive you choose will make a big difference. With either sander I'd first try Brilliant 2 in the lower grits. It has a paraffin based coating to reduce loading (the finish residue from sticking the discs). Cristal could be used if you are having trouble but be very careful. Cristal is extremely course and it leaves a deep scratch pattern that will need to be carefully sanded out. I wouldn't recommend using Cristal on veneer.

Another thing to keep in mind when sanding to remove finishes is excess heat. If you don't keep the sander moving you'll build up heat and that will start to melt the finish. When the finish starts to melt it's so much harder to sand off, and it will load up the sanding discs very quickly.

I've got one correction to add. The Rotex 150 has a 5 mm stroke not 7 mm. At least not the model sold here in the States.

Originally Posted by Brice Burrell

I've got one correction to add. The Rotex 150 has a 5 mm stroke not 7 mm. At least not the model sold here in the States.

Oops! - Thanks Brice. I don't know why I was under the impression that the Rotex had a 7 mm stroke - must have misread it somewhere.

Thanks for the replies fellas.

A bit more info. The table is Hoop pine and is made from slabs I purchased some years ago. The frame and legs are also Hoop and are made from much older timber with a different colour tone. I tried to stain the top to match the frame and legs but it went horribly wrong. The top wound up an orange colour.

I mixed the stain with the F&W and that proved a blessing in disguise. I began to sand back by hand and as the finish was removed it exposed the timber in all its blondness. The result was good but slow. Now with my heart problems I'm not quite up to the effort it takes, especially in the heat.

So the need for more mechanically expedient means of stripping.

As Brice pointed out earlier, the Rotex in rotary mode will remove more material than it does in ROS mode.

I have to say though that if you are looking to move up from hand sanding a previously applied finish, then I don't think you need anything more than the ETS-150. It will certainly do the job with ease and precision.

Also, the ROS is easier to handle than the Rotex in high speed rotary mode. I have sanded back a finish that I didn't like and I used the Rotex mainly in ROS mode. Apart from trying to get the surface as level as possible ( which for me is easier to control with ROS), paper clogging of the previous finish was worse in rotary mode, although this isn't a problem on bare timber or with very aggressive paper.

However, given that both machines will do the job you want, I would suggest that you should get one based upon your intended future use.

If any woodworker had to have just one sander then the 150/3 is all you would need. Sensational sander. Even though its stroke is 3mm, with a 38# disk it will remove anything from any surface with ease, right up to a 1000/2000 or 4000# Platin disks that will give a swirl free mirror finish. My choice by a mile.

i agree lignum. the festool ets 150/3 is the greatest sander out there.
you couldn't beat it with a big stick!

regards, justin.

One other benefit of the ETS150/3......it might 'get there slower' when compared to the ETS150/5 or Rotex, but when you're working with veneered board that ain't necessarily a bad thing

Sorry for the late reply.

For difficult to remove thick, or very hard, finish (& a large area to jsutify the cost) see this:

Metabo Paint Remover 710w. #LF724S

You will need a vacuum system as well