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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    sydney
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    235

    Default TS55EQ and 45deg cuts*#%!

    Had the saw for 4 months and have been cutting marine ply and melamine sheets. But, when it came to a 45 deg. cut it all came off the rails and damaged the plastic edge strip in the process. I use a power saw almost everyday in my work life but I really think this thing is a bit of a pig when doing a 45 cut. Am I missing something?
    woodworm.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    was rail clamped on,

    i dont often do angle cuts with the festool, we just do it in factory on the slider but it can be done

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    Dr Wu!,
    I don't use the TS75 that I have for angle cuts very often, but I have done so with no problems. For the saw to to jump the rail sounds like something must be pushing it off. What about the depth of cut, was that set to accommodate the angle?
    But remember.."Katy Lies!"

    Regards,

    Rob

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
    Age
    62
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    2,567

    Default

    I find that when set to cut 45deg the TS55 is not balanced. You need to concentrate on keeping the base on the track as the weight of the motor will otherwise pull it off.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Dr Wu,

    I have had the same problem - ruined a heap of figured wood trying to mitre some box projects. Rethinking he to cut accurate mitres now...

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,091

    Default

    DoctorWu,

    Bummer... I find with 45 degree cuts I keep my modest left hand pressure on the saw base (right hand is plunging and pulling the trigger) and the left hand pressure is keeping the saw balanced and from tilting off the rail. I've never had a saw come off the rail. If the saw comes off the rail, like LGS said, something apart from the saw sounds to be an issue.

    If you have some damaged splinteguard strip, you can get replacements, and with damage to a small section, you can just replace that section without having to replace the entire length of splinterguard.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LGS View Post
    Dr Wu!,
    I don't use the TS75 that I have for angle cuts very often, but I have done so with no problems. For the saw to to jump the rail sounds like something must be pushing it off. What about the depth of cut, was that set to accommodate the angle?
    But remember.."Katy Lies!"

    Regards,

    Rob
    It didn't jump the rails, more like it slowly veered downwards....Without me being aware of it until too late. And yes, I do know that "Katy lied"
    woodworm.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    I find that when set to cut 45deg the TS55 is not balanced. You need to concentrate on keeping the base on the track as the weight of the motor will otherwise pull it off.
    Exactly so. Something I'm now aware of with hindsight. I'm also left-handed which only exaggerated the problem as I should have had my right hand on the saw trigger and my left holding down the base-plate.
    woodworm.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nt900 View Post
    DoctorWu,

    Bummer... I find with 45 degree cuts I keep my modest left hand pressure on the saw base (right hand is plunging and pulling the trigger) and the left hand pressure is keeping the saw balanced and from tilting off the rail. I've never had a saw come off the rail. If the saw comes off the rail, like LGS said, something apart from the saw sounds to be an issue.

    If you have some damaged splinteguard strip, you can get replacements, and with damage to a small section, you can just replace that section without having to replace the entire length of splinterguard.
    Agree to that.
    woodworm.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7

    Default Train

    Hi Dr Wu

    I am involved in the application training for Festool/Protool power tools, and thought I could offer some advice on this issue.
    The Festool plunge cut saws are well suited to cutting angles, providing some techniques are followed in the sawing process.
    Firstly, I can appreciate that people have different techniques in the way they work and process materials, but I thought I could share some tips with this particular application that hopefully will assist you.
    One point is to make sure the saw is adjusted to the FS rail to eliminate any movement while cutting. This allows the saw to cut perfectly in combination with the splinter guard for a quality cut. This is adjusted with the green adjustment wheels in the saws baseplate.
    The FS guide rail should always be approximately 300mm longer than the material being processed to allow for stability on the rail.This also enables a comfortable lead into the cut, and materials being processed should be clamped.
    The most important technique to follow is the correct balance of the machine over the rail.This requires adequate support over the guide track whilst holding the saws base plate for the duration of the cut. This support is required in other applications with the FS rails when routing and using jigsaws with FS adaptors.


    I hope this helps you.

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