Thread: New bandsaw owner and first bandsawn box

very nice box. lovely peice of camphor as you said.

cheers

Originally Posted by JaD

I am just so happy to tell folks I am now the proud owner of a bandsaw

Congrats. Long may it saw.

I attacked a lubbily piece of Camphor Laurel I found in the back shed and the images are what I now have....A little beauty I reckon
I came on tonite to ask what finish any more experienced guys might suggest to me, and I did read Sir Stinky's thread and I was thinking of Danish oil too

Good job! I gotta agree: Danish will bring it up a treat.

Hows a bloke s'posed to get time in the shed when he has to keep up to date on this forum, when he has a triton, a lathe, loves handplanes and general woodwork and now a you beaut bandsaw to learn about :eek:

To halve the amount of threads to read, simply ignore any & every thread with "Friday" in the title.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Danish will bring it up a treat.

Thanks Skew I haven't had much to do with Danish Oil...But Danish women Nahhh, unfortunately, not much to do with them, either So, is there any secrets to using it???? I think I read in Sir Stinkys thread that it should be applied and left for 4-6 weeks:eek: :eek: CRIKEYS (crocs rule, Steve) I never had a project that I wait 4-6 'hours for

AND THEN.....does one wax it after????

JD

I'm far from being an expert on finishes, but I've been playing with Danish & Tung Oils for a long time and this is how they work best for me...

I wipe it on with a cloth, the first time fairly heavily, giving it about 15 mins to soak in and then wipe off the excess. Leave overnight to dry, then rub back (I use about 400grit) to remove the raised nap. Ditto for a second coat, except you should be able to rub back with a finer grit, say 600.

For subsequent coats I also wipe it on with a cloth, but just enough to "wet" the wood, before leaving overnight to dry. The first few coats I'll use fine grit paper (anywhere between 800 - 1200, depending on how "dust-free" my shed is at the time. ) to rub back between coats, after that I'll sometimes switch to 0000 steel wool. I don't use steel wool earlier 'cos I don't want steel fibres caught in the grain :eek: and whether I use it at the end depends on if I want a full-gloss or a satin finish.

With enough coats you won't need wax, but there's nothing to stop you from waxing just to add one more protective coat. However, once you start waxing, it'll be an ongoing process... wax picks up fingerprints quite quickly and although it only takes a few minutes of buffing to bring it back to a shine, you'll need to do this as part of the "household chores" for as long as you want the box to stay shiny.

Our hosts, UBeaut, have released a book which most finishers here seem to refer to as the Bible of finishing. I gather it is that good. 'Tis on my "to buy" list but at the moment I'm still working on simply convincing the timber to do what I want; finishing, as such, is still an area I've yet to spend any serious time on trying to improve.

BTW... the 4-6 weeks is how long it takes for the DO to achieve its' maximum strength. ie. Take a bit of care with the box before then, don't let the kiddies play with it.

THANK YOU, SKEW.......
Plenty of great info there to start me orf.....
I'm off to da shed to get a coat on tonite
I'll go with the dansih, I think it will give me that look of clear depth, like coats and coats of laquer!!!!! and hopefully keep the colours of the camphor

Thanks again

WOW....Doesn't that look nice Thats gunna be just what I wanted when I've finished the coats...i.e. if the end product looks like the first heavy coat
Ah well.....can't set the bar tooo high on the first one

Don't forget to post pix when it's finished.

A good Danish is, IMHO, an excellent finish to start with. It richens and enhances the colour and is very forgiving to apply. Got a scratch? Lightly sand it out and then just apply another coat or three. With some other finishes you need to strip right back to bare timber, but not with a good Tung/Danish.

Mind you, some manufacturers' so-called Danish Oils are more PolyUrethane than Tung Oil (Danish is basically a mix of the two) and shouldn't really be called Danish in the first place. You'll know the stuff if you ever encounter it, 'cos you will have to sand back to bare timber if you need to refinish later. :mad:

J D
welcome to the club.
If you use Ubeaut Trad Wax it does not show finger prints.

Hi JaD
Welcome!

Lovely first box you have there. Glad you are enjoying using your bandsaw.

Good luck with your future Bandsawn boxes. I, too, am looking forward to seeing this one finished and more of your work.

cheers
Wendy

Thanks for the welcomes, ptc and especially Wendy What a privelege to be welcomed by such a fine upstanding, respected member of hte forum
I can see this bandsaw and bandsawn boxes thingy are going to excite me for a while and take me off on another woody tangent:eek:

I have now applied 2 coats of danish and its looking great already, IMHO

These pics are only 2 coats, but I don't think they do it justice to real life!!!!
But it certainly has brought out the colours.....

Thanks for the application info Skew, too

And congratulations to Lowndsy Did ya see the passenger he had with him??? Finally got Brocky into a FORD

Originally Posted by JaD

I have now applied 2 coats of danish and its looking great already, IMHO

It's not just your opinion either. It looks like there's some nice chatoyance in the wood, too. Bonus!

You know you've done well when Ruffly drops in... she's our local, leather-clad connoisseur of "wow!"

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

It's not just your opinion either. It looks like there's some nice chatoyance in the wood, too. Bonus!

You know you've done well when Ruffly drops in... she's our local, leather-clad connoisseur of "wow!"

All i've ever wanted to do was to impress Ruffly Maybe thats why my work is usually a bir "Ruff"
WOW and Leather clad TOO:eek:

BTW...Whats this "chatoyance" :confused: sounds like someone who talks too much and gives ya the s*#ts

Originally Posted by JaD

BTW...Whats this "chatoyance" :confused: sounds like someone who talks too much

It's the "Cat's Eye" effect you get when you move the timber around in the light. In the first pic it's most obvious as the band across the RH drawer, with a couple of small spots around the knots in the LH one and in the second pic you can see a couple of highlights on the RH drawer's top edge and the band on the LH top of the box.

It makes the timber come alive... and not all wood shows it. It's often difficult to deliberately take a photo of, too. Like I said: bonus!

WOW again....Learn sumfin new every day

More ideas??? In relation to a method of opening the drawers, I was thinking of turning some small knobs out of camphor for the fronts.....

Other idea was a small length, sort of an arc shape, glued on, or cut a semi-circle out of the top lip...decisions, decisions :confused: