Thread: blade tension & tracking

One thing to point out, if you re-tensioned after the initial tracking it may need to be re-tracked

i thought i checked that DJ, but i'll have to make double sure tomorrow. thanks for the tip.

Be sure to keep the top and bottom guides away from the blade until blade is tracking properly
Don Mc.

android

A number of bandsaws are fitted with a placard intended to be used as the blade tension indicator. Often the placard consists of a heavy duty plastic coated sheet of paper. This is accompanied by a gauge attached to the tensioning device. I've often wondered how on a production line this sheet of paper is fitted to the machine? My experience is that this device is a distraction and it should be disregarded.

Prior to the introduction of a gauge and the sheet of paper there was nothing!

The only way then, as is now, is to use the pluck method to set the correct blade tension. To do this set the guides back away from the blade. Tighten the blade and turn the top wheel BY HAND, watching how the blade tracks on the top wheel. If this is in the correct position, then pluck the blade on the longest unsupported side. Now look and listen for two things, (1) the rate of vibration of the plucked blade and (2) the sound. Then rotate the wheel, again by hand and tighten the blade further. Keep doing so until the tension of the blade means the blade does not excessively vibrate when plucked and there is a highish sound. I can't describe that sound any better expect to say when you've tested the cut on a blank from the timber in waiting bin and found it to be cutting correctly then go back and pluck the blade again to learn the correct sound.

When the blade is used for an extended period it will stretch so the blade needs to be re-tensioned. In fact you should check the blade for tension tracking and sharpness often. There is a recent theory to say that the correct tension can only be achieved when the blade is warm, I am not sure whether that is so here is the high temperate zones of Australia?

Ping !
I always run saw for a minute or two first
to warm bearings etc before use. (cutting)

Originally Posted by ptc

Ping !
I always run saw for a minute or two first
to warm bearings etc before use. (cutting)

As ptc says ~ ping! If you are in a cold climate then you should wait before conducting your ping (test)!

well, it pays to inspect things closely. after fussing with the blade for an hour or more, i decided to see if the tires maybe were causing the problem. i know, i know, i should have checked this first.

i'm glad i did, the tires are totally shot. some huge chunks out of the bottom tire that i couldn't see without close inspection since it's deep in the table.

i've got some new urethane tires on order and really hope that this will solve my inability to get the 1/8" blade to run on my bandsaw.

thanks again for everyone's help.

any installation tips for the new tires? do i need to remove the wheels to install the new tires or can i just do it with them on? i'm planning on mounting a brush on the bottom tire to help them last longer as well.

edit in: do i need to tension the tires or grind the crown with urethane tires?