Thread: Cutting blocks of wood using a bandsaw

To do the straight cuts I would use 16 or 19 mm wide by 3 TPI which is available from most retailers. On my BAS-350 ( Oops another part number....my apologies to the american viewer, can't remember his name!) I use a 19 mm x 1,25 TPI blade from Henry Bros in Sydney. It's real good for straight cuts, resawing green or dry and for any thickness from about 25 mm upwards. Feed very slowly, no pressure on the blade and let the blade do the cutting. Gives a very smooth finish if used correctly. As a matter of fact I use that as my standard blade now. I wont recommend it for cutting plywood though!!


Ave a good weekend guys and gals.

Originally Posted by Don Nethercott

I have a Hafco (Hare & Forbes)

Now I want to try bandsaw boxes but I am not sure what blades to use.

Second question:
What is the best way to sand those curves?

Thanks
Don

As gatiep said, wide blade for straight cuts and a narrow blade for tight curves, I use a 1/8 blade for most internal cuts

I use the sleevless drum sanders for the inside curves and a belt sander for the initial sanding of the outside curves

Sleeveless Drum Sanders

Thanks Gatiep and Sprog,
I contacted Henry Bros in Sydney. Mark was very helpful. He suggested I try a 1/2" 3TPI that has hardened steel tips and other refinements such as different teeth set, says it will cut like butter, and even does larger dia circles.
Decided to give one a go so will let you know how it goes.

That sleeveless sanding set looks like a good idea. Thanks for that.
Don

Originally Posted by Don Nethercott

That sleeveless sanding set looks like a good idea. Thanks for that.
Don

You can use them in a drill press or a hand held power drill mounted in a stand

Hi Don, I missed this one but better late than never. I use 1/8th blades in 10tpi and 14tpi. They are the only thing that will get into the tight curves you need for small pieces, drawers, end pieces etc and they are still fine for cutting broad curves through very thick stock. If you use these then you don't have to change blades during the project. They can also take quite a high tension and have less blade rubbing against the inside of curves. Setting them up is the problem and when doing that you want to put the guides well out of the way then bring the blade up to tension (I pluck it with my thumb until we reach the right note) then very gently bring the guides up to the back and sides of the blade taking care not to impinge on the back edges of the cutting teeth. Good Luck.