Thread: Finishing the Boxes

Roger,

25% polyurethane (I use Cabot's) and rest Danish Oil (again I use Cabot's)
Have used Organoil Danish but it takes a long time to dry.
After finishing to at least 400 grit, I often go to 800, don't see the point going higher, wipe on and after 5-10 mins, wipe off. Leave 24hrs and repeat. Do as mant times as required to get the finish you want, it will get glossier the more coats you put on.
Mixture will go off in container, so a good idea to mix only enough for the next months use. Will go off quicker in hot weather.
Usual caveat, watch for self ignition of oily rags. I leave each rag flat on the ground overnight, they will be stiff and dry the next morning.

I like the finish it gives, satin, but you can still feel the wood.

Any help??

Chris

I'm a great fan of sand as fine as you can, 1 coat Ubeaut sanding sealer, 1 stroke light sand with some worn 1200 grit paper to remove whatever stood up, another coat of sanding sealer and then about 3 coats of Ubeaut traditional wax, buffing with swansdown mop between coats.

Neil, I'll pick up my commision at Sydney ww show.

Kia ora Roger,

Having had no significant experience at all at finishing pieces, I showed my first raw box to a friend, a professional carpenter- cabinet maker who does a lot of turning in his spare time. His advice was 2 coats Danish Oil applied sparingly with a rag, followed by 2 coats Bison Wax well buffed in.
His comment was there was not much point in sanding much finer than 320 grit.

So that's what I did. 24 hours between each coat, and sanding after each Danish Oil coat. I couldn't obtain Bison Wax so used Briwax. (I haven't found a source of Ubeaut products locally, although Organoil is available).

The result is what you see in my earlier thread.

No doubt you have trawled through the "Finishing" forum.
I am sure there are as many favourite "brews" for finishing as there are beers.

Cheers,

ROB NZ

Need to know more than - http://ubeaut.com.au/book.html
.

I like using UBeaut's Hard Shellac, EEE and Traditional Wax.

Here are four very helpful tips I've found: [qualification: not everyone will agree with them, but they are working for me and are all based on The Finishing Bible]:

1. Dilute Hard Shellac with 100% pure metho - easier to apply, quicker to dry - I like to use a half & half mix or whatever the book says

2. The more coats you put on, the deeper & shiner the end result will be. Sanding back very lightly with 800 grit between every 2nd coat helps a great deal. other grits may be better, depending on the grain of the timber

3 If brushing on, (I've yet to learn swoogeing) make sure the brush does not drip otherwise you will get runs on your work that are impossible to get out - be prepared to brush on very carefully & quickly so you don't get an edge mark in the shellac - Practice is essential if you are going to brush shellac (and brushing is not the recommended Bible way)

4 keeping the shellac brush good - I clean the brush in metho & store it in an airtight sandwich bag with a little bit of metho in the bag - keeps the brush wet - same idea as keeping the french pol. swooge wet from UBeaut's bible.

I then EEE wax the piece & then trad wax it, lastly is a good buff with UBeaut's swansdown mop. A good lasting finish & the wax is easy to apply again when needed.

I've used danish oil, lanotec and organoil and I still use them occaisionally depending on the piece, but I've found I reach for the UBeaut shellac time after time after time after time.....

Cheers
Wendy

Minwax's Wipe-on Poly is one of my favorite finishes.
I learned from a master of the poly to use a piece of old Tee shirt material. I cut a square about 2" and fold it in thirds and then in thirds again. I take a hemostat (medical instrument, locking tweezers) and hold the pad. I pour a small amount into a small container and dip the pad. You wipe the surface with the small applicator (used as a brush) and allow a wet look. Don't go back over... and allow to harden (not just dry but harden) this is usually over night (in dry weather) I often use an old goose neck lamp and 100 watt light in close proximity to the piece to aid in the hardening. I use Green Scotch brute pads to scuff between coats. as the finish nears completion,. I change to 300 or 400 paper and gentle rub to remove the nibs and lumps etc. Then a final wet coat, on larger pieces I usually do one side at a time waiting till it hardens to turn and keep the top surface level so the wet wipe will float out to a smoothes "Spayed" look.

I always use Gloss and never the Semi gloss. the semi gloss is dulled chemically so you can never raise a shine. But with the gloss, you can use pumice and oil rub to reduce the shine to a subtle glow.