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  1. #16
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    Jun 1999
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    I apply wax before most glue-ups, wherever there is likely to be squeeze-out. Afterwards, just peel the glue off and clean up with white spirits.
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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Oz
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    340

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sculptured Box View Post
    Fine Woodworking Mag, April 2013 @ page 34 discussed this very problem.

    their research suggests that the area surrounding the glue area should be coated in a silicone-free wax. The glue can then be wiped off or knifed off (when dried) followed by a light sanding using 220 grit

    have not had the opportunity to test this theory, interested in your results ?
    Definitely works well with PVA. The wax is easily removed with white spirits. A toothbrush can help with open-grained timber. For tight corners, I use a cotton bud with white spirits for removal. Good for the inside of joined boxes, since there's no access for cleanup after gluing until the lid is sawn from the body.
    Not sure about (thin) CA, though. It wicks into the timber easily, so the wax coating would want to be pretty good, without pinholes, I'd imagine.
    Last edited by Humphrey9999; 14th February 2013 at 09:41 PM. Reason: More info

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Chewton Vic.
    Posts
    208

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    Sculptured Box, Now that you mentioned it, it does remind me of a horse drawn hearse.

    Dengue, What I tried to do with the ca glue was fill in the cracks with ca and sawdust like I do on woodturned pieces where it works quite well. But I'll never use it again in cracks on a box.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Bundanoon, Southern Highlands
    Posts
    1,058

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    try shellac as a filler, it does a reasonable filling job
    Tony Ward
    Now a power carver and living the dream.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Lone Tree, Colorado, USA
    Posts
    340

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    Very cool design!
    Pete

    The Second Wind Workshop
    http://secondwindworkshop.blogspot.com/

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