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Thread: Rounding the Bandsaw Blade Back
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4th July 2011, 03:50 PM #1
Rounding the Bandsaw Blade Back
G'day all
I finally have my new bandsaw, a Craftsman (Rikon) 14". I'm pleased with it, set up was easy even for a beginner. I've mounted and lowered it onto a mobile base, and accessible from my 4 wheeler, moves easy and good locks. The max resaw is 8", seems plenty for me and my control, must consider weight and coordination..
Pic Here
Have been getting familiar with the saw and cutting some thick (glueup's) to get he feel of the curves, smooth and tight - just using the stock 1/4" blade. What solid blocks I have 8 /10 of them up to 18" and I wouldn't want to riun them in trial runs / projects. The glue ups are pine/spruce and a heavy with resins, use a fine brass brush to remove it
During my reading I have come across 'pointers' that the back of the blade should be stoned a little round. Is this a common practice ? and should it be done?. My blades are 3/16" - 1/4" and 3/8', the saw will take up to a 3/4". I understand the theory of this but need the advice from some seasoned band sawyers.
Any comments - guidance appeciated.
Getting wound up to do the first sculptured box and a bunch more, 6 daughters, 10 grandchildren and 10 greats(maybe 11).
Thanks.
Glenn
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5th July 2011, 11:04 AM #2
Hi
IMHO rounding the back of a blade is generally not required, given the size of your blades.
The only occasion I will take a metal file to back of a blade is to smooth a weld spot to reduce the vibration of the blade striking the rear thrust bearing.
looking forward to seeing your work posted on this forum,Tony Ward
Now a power carver and living the dream.
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5th July 2011, 02:08 PM #3
It can be beneficial if you tend to cut do a lot of cutting at close to the minimum radius for each size blade.
When I first fit a new blade I'll give the back a quick touch with a stone or steel to take off the edge. But not for the above reason. It's purely so that if I touch the back of the blade while running, I don't end up with a serious "paper cut." (I've a nasty habit of getting my fingers in up close and personal. Seriously not recommended! )
- Andy Mc
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5th July 2011, 02:32 PM #4
HI, thanks for the response. I thought it might be something that's not a common practice, especially if one got carried away and since the strength of the blade is its back in could be a little dangerous. I won't practice the idea.
I have visited your site several times and am very impressed with the artistic and quality work that is displayed. Also impressed by the artistic work of the Visitors. I have gotten the 'bug' as it opens a big field of expression for me. Just need to get the feel of the machine.
Noticed that a lot of your work is using Cedar, that is my favorite wood. Always enjoyed working with it as a young kid and still do. I imagine that the texture of the Australian Cedar is very similar to our Western Red and the California species.
I will be posting.
Yes, I like my fingers too. Did have a TS kickback a year ago, don't need any other surprises.
glenn
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5th July 2011, 05:08 PM #5
Bandsaw Blades.
Hi Glen,
Rather nice looking machine. Rather surprised, that you can get to cut 8in., but that is really good.
I have been making up my own Blades for some time now, & I have a bit of 80 grit Paper glued to a Flat Stick, & I always Round over My New Blades.
I think it is just an inner thing, but it makes me feel better..
Be VERY CAREFUL of that Western Red Cedar & mask up well.
A friend of mine, ended up in Hospital, & went very close to not being with us.
The Dust is a real Shocker.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
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5th July 2011, 08:55 PM #6
One of the "advantages" found in a Google search is to facilitate backing out from a cut. Not a great idea I think, because it gives the teeth an opportunity to widen the kerf. For critical work, I usually back out with the saw stopped, or gently moved by hand (rotating the upper wheel in reverse).
BTW, depending on blade length, you may be able to find a 1/8" blade for minimum radius.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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6th July 2011, 12:08 AM #7
I tend to round over the back on the smaller 3/16" blades but not on the larger ones. I use an old oil stone and just quickly rub over the edge when the blade is put on the first time.
In theory it makes sense as it should be easier to get around the corner of a cut as it gives a little relief at the back. In practice I am not sure it makes much difference but at the end of the day it takes all of 5 seconds to do and doesn't do any harm.Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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6th July 2011, 03:50 AM #8
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6th July 2011, 05:33 AM #9
g'day all
As with a lot of us beginners in this area woodworking, I did purchase several books recommended by the members here, and of course Miss Ventura's book. I'll be using some of her patterns for my internship!!
I will be getting a 1/8" blade asap, the company has to types. A Swedish Silicon and industrial carbon, both .025" and 14 tpi. This saw takes a 99 3/4" length blade, an odd size I've been inform of. I do have a good supply of stones - collected over the years, some coarse, a few in a medium grit and a couple hard ones. Not sure on the numbers, so I will give one of the narrower blades a "back buffing", probably a 1/4" one as I did purchase one and one came with the saw.
Am aware of the dust factor and do use a mask, my work area is in at the end of an attached sunroom between the house and garage. Not fully enclosed as there's 3 patio doors off of it (its L shaped), so with a little breeze coming thru it helps with the dust dispersal. Even a big fan helps - summers here now!
I caught myself backing out of a cut, the outline, with the saw still running - whoa man don't do that - and could visualize what the kerf would be like on the inside cuts. Learn as you go. And with your input its been going good.
Glenn
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