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Thread: Sandpaper
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19th July 2007, 11:16 PM #1Senior Member
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Sandpaper
i was not sure where to post this but since i am making a bandsaw box i figure this place is as good as any...
after trying to come up with all the elaborate methods for sanding the inside curves of a bandsaw box i decided that i would get the job done a lot faster if i just got in amoungst it and did some sanding... i did a little reading on the different types of sandpaper and decided to go with some wet and dry silicone stuff (its suppose to stay sharp the longest). i wrapped some 80 grit around a dowel and started sanding. now 80 grit is pretty aggressive stuff so i took it easy. to my surprise not much stock was being removed so i added a little more pressure, then a little more and finally a little more. not much stock was coming off at all???? i dont really understand why. i tried to work it will a little 180 grit garnet paper and to my surprise a lot more dust was being produced... i am really confused. it was my understanding that the wet and dry silicone oxide stuff was really good but it does not appear to remove stock very quickly.
why kind of paper do you guys use and what kinda performance do you get out of it? that is, for a small 2 draw bandsaw box, how many sheets of each grade would you use to do your sanding?
cheers,
gabacus
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19th July 2007 11:16 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th July 2007, 08:31 PM #2
I start with the small drum sanders and then work my way up the Hermes sandpaper. As I use flocking powder inside the drawers there is no real need to sand them to a super high grit. For the outside is a mix of the drum sanders, orbital sander and the Hermes again.
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21st July 2007, 09:57 PM #3Senior Member
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unfortunately, i dont have the equipment to sand quickly and efficiently... nor do i have the time to spend hours sanding by hand... was thinking about flocking today and i think it would save me a lot of frustration... i thought about flocking the inside of each draw and also the inside of the body of the box. has anybody done this before? is there any reason not to do this? i imagine it would make the draws slide in and out smoothly and save a lot of sanding.
any thoughts?
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21st July 2007, 10:01 PM #4Senior Member
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on the subject of flocking... will the glue bond to and oil finish? i am just trying to think if the steps for this process. do you finish the box and apply all coats of oil and then the glue/flocking in order to get a nice glue line? i imagine i would be a lot harder the other way around, trying to oil the piece without getting any on the flocking...
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21st July 2007, 11:55 PM #5
I oil first and then flock, just try and keep any oil away from the inside of the drawers. Finish the outsides and then flock the insides.
As for flocking the inside of the box cavity I wouldn't personally do it. Depends alot on your design, there are many boxes where you see quite alot of the inside of the cavity and then it comes to the point of where to stop the flocking. The cavity isn't handled so you can get away with less sanding.
The drum sanders can be put in a cordless drill and are quite cheap. I set of about 5 different diameter drums is about $20-$25 from memory.
http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/...nts-389_0.aspx
or search DS-20
An economical set of the 25pce drum sanding set. It includes four drums with two sets of fine and two sets of coarse replacement abrasive drums. It has the following diameter x length sanding drums: ¾ x ½in, 1 x 1in, 1 ½ x 1in and 2 x 1½in. Does not include a carry case. The replacement sleeves have one of each size drum in two different grits, making up an 8pce replacement set.
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22nd July 2007, 11:15 AM #6Member
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Try starting with 120
It will take you a week to remove much stock with 180 and 80 grit may be too aggresive paticularly if the timber is very hard. I start with 120 to remove the BS blade marks and do any final shaping, then smooth off with 220 and then 320. I have found the indasa rhinodry sandpaper (red stuff) the best by far bur it's not easy to find. The imorter is in Perth and can be found by googling Indasa.
Regards Wb
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23rd July 2007, 04:38 PM #7
Re draws sliding in and out ok
Ubeaut EEE and trad wax does it for me.p.t.c
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24th July 2007, 09:52 PM #8Senior Member
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hi guys,
thank you very much for your feed back and advice.
sir stinkalot, thanks for the link to the drum sanders. i actaully tried to rig something similar up with stuff at home and it did work. the only problem was i had to clamp it down to hold the drill with two hands and go at it... i was not paying enough attention and ended up clamping to tight and snapped the cavity!!! i have reserved some money in next months budget and i will be giving the drum sanders a go(i have already used this months budget for flocking ).
woodbutcher, i have been using 80 to start with and i agree it is too agressive. sometimes my patients goes out the window and i just want to finish a job (i have had a run of failures recently). 120 is much better to start with. gets rid of wood quickly but does not leave such deep scratches behind.
ptc, i love EEE!!! first time i used it was to polish up a picture frame. i was dissapointed with the finish until i realised that i had not let the lacquer dry for a long enough time. left it for a little over a week and went back to it. came up beautiful. looked great and felt increadible. i have a fresh pot of traditional wax i will be using when i finish my first BS box.
speaking of which, he is a progress pic. i will post one of the finished product when its done (one the weekend hopefully)
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24th July 2007, 10:04 PM #9
Looking good Gabacus ..... I also have the same box on the go at the moment
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25th July 2007, 08:16 AM #10
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26th July 2007, 09:01 PM #11Member
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Looks great. !
Can anyone point me to more data on flocking ? I guess it is some sort of interior finish like felt glued to the inside of drawers or a box ? If it saves sanding and prodcues a nice finsih. I'm interested.
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26th July 2007, 10:39 PM #12Senior Member
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hey woodbutcher,
i dont know where to get more data on flocking but they give a good description of it on the timbercon website (www.timbercon.com.au)
basically, you put the glue onto the surface and then sprinkle the flocking (very small fibres) on. when it drys it is like a suede finish. it comes in a few different colours. i ordered some from timbercon and it arrived today. hopefully i will finished the finish on the box and add the flocking on the weekend.
as far as removing the need to sand... im not so sure thats its intended purpose. i believe you are suppose to apply it to the inside of the draws only, so in that sense it does save on sanding the inside of the draws. i also plan to put it inside the cavity (where it will be least visible) so i dont have to sand the inside of the cavity. i dont think this is the intended purpose of the flocking but i plan to use it for that reason but im not sure how it will turn out. i will post pics as soon as i have the finished product.
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26th July 2007, 10:40 PM #13Tony Ward
Now a power carver and living the dream.
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28th July 2007, 12:31 PM #14Member
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Thanks Tony , I'll check it out
Gabacus. look forard to seeing your finished flocked box.
Regards WB
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31st July 2007, 11:57 PM #15Senior Member
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i have not had the chance to add the flocking yet but i could not wait...
here is my first bandsawn box! i am pretty happy with the finish... which went a little something like this...
sanded down to 240 then used ubeaut sanding sealer followed by a quick sanding with 400 grit. then i added 3 coats of wipe-on-poly sanding with 600 between coats. then cut back and polished the finish with EEE and finally some traditional wax. this is the best finish i have ever produced and i will be going through this process again with a smile on my face
i could not hold back from taking some photos of it. i will take some more once i have added the flocking.
cheers,
gabacus
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