Thread: Simple but effective - WIP

Thanks for these wip pics Billy, very instructive. Just a question. I imagined that you would cut off the end pieces just after you had shaped the outside of the block so that they would match up with the shape of the inside pieces. What are the pros and cons of the sequence of cuts that you have developed?

Originally Posted by Fencepost2

Thanks for these wip pics Billy, very instructive. Just a question. I imagined that you would cut off the end pieces just after you had shaped the outside of the block so that they would match up with the shape of the inside pieces. What are the pros and cons of the sequence of cuts that you have developed?

Good Point! However I find that the final assembly is a real fiddle and to have the slight overlap all round allows for some final adjustment.

Perhaps I am not accurate enough but I have been caught out a couple of times at glue up.

regards Billy

Thankyou for taking the time and effort for the instructional photos, v informative and appreciated

Billy .... good post and keep it coming. Your poll may not be popular but there have been plenty of views so don't think that your hard work posting a wip is in vain.

Cheers

Stinky.

Bandsaw boxes are next on my 'to do list' they look so good! Seeing the pics as a WIP make it easy to beginners to follow along - thanks for your effort

JD

Good stuphph Billy. Filed in the memory banks.

Hello all,
Thanks for the positive feedback to date!

Well I didn't get as much time in the shed as I would have liked this weekend, however below are a few more steps in the process of making, what I call, clam type BS boxes.

11.(ab) Using a bench drill sanding drum, spindle sander and hand sanding (or whatever you have) clean up the inside of the pieces.
12. Then drill about a 12mm deep hole in each side of the lid. (I use 3mm nails as the pins so 3mm drill bit)
13. (ab) Tape up the lid and base allowing space for the lid to open. I then use cut off nails to mark the position in the sides to drill.
14. Drill the pin holes in the sides, half the thickness of the sides, about 5mm
15. Cut a nail into pieces and test for fit. The sides should be firm against the base. Lightly sand the sides of the lid to ensure a slight gap from the sides.
16. Apply glue to the base ONLY. I use Titebond 3, but don't overdo it clean up inside is a pain.
17. Clamp firmly checking alinement.

Final steps next week, Happy Woodworking!

regards
Billy

Thanks Billy, following this WIP with great interest.

This is an excellent tutorial, long overdue. Thanks for the time and effort you have put into it Billy. Great WIP pics.

P.S. What blade are you using for cutting and shaping out the box.?

Originally Posted by munruben

This is an excellent tutorial, long overdue. Thanks for the time and effort you have put into it Billy. Great WIP pics.

P.S. What blade are you using for cutting and shaping out the box.?

Thanks Munruben,

See Point 9. at the top "I use 1/4 inch 6 teeth but the more teeth the cleaner the cut"

However the TPI and blade size are only part of the equation. It is no use cutting a nice sharp turn if you then don't have the tools to sand it properly. I have seen some boxes like this out of Tasmania that flock the inside to hide the saw marks.

Even on a couple of these I had troubles around the back of the lid, especially with the harder Qld Maple and Tassie Myrtle boxes.

I finished the next stage this morning so I will definitley have the finished WIP on Monday.

regards
Billy

Pleased to have look in at your post, I think I would need to upgrade my bandsaw to do such lovely work. (mine vibrates and shakes at any hard work)

Hi all,
I know a couple of you have been waiting on this final update so here it is!

18. After the glue up the excess sides can be rough trimmed.
19. Rough sanded
20. (ab) Finer sanding down to 320 and 0000 steel wool, or what ever level you are happy with.
21. Create the finger grab.
22. I then apply sanding sealer, a 000 steel wool rub down, then Natural Wax and let it dry.
23. Buff with whatever you have, some heat is required to get the best result from the wax.
24. By the way. I believe in branding everything I make. You never know when your work might be good enough to have 'real' value.
25. The finished product, delivered to the shop this morning.

Thanks for viewing, give me a yell if there is anything you have problems with,

Happy Woodworking!

regards
Billy

Thanks again for showing you work methods.
I assume picture number 6 is a sanding rod inserted into a router under the table?

Gives me thought of using the Triton jigsaw accessory and making a sanding stick that would have a reciprocating movement. (up and down)

Originally Posted by jow104

Thanks again for showing you work methods.
I assume picture number 6 is a sanding rod inserted into a router under the table?

Gives me thought of using the Triton jigsaw accessory and making a sanding stick that would have a reciprocating movement. (up and down)

Hi jow104,
Thanks for your feedback. No the machine is an Oscillating Spindle Sander, works in the same way as you are describing however spins as well.

regards
Billy