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Thread: My WIP Projects
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8th July 2011, 04:39 PM #1
My WIP Projects
G'day again,
Have made decent progress in the last couple days with a booby or 2. With my first block, pattern on cut the outline, went pretty good - Saw blade not rounded yet. Finished the outline, said well Ok, put the block to the side for a few minutes. Had a few sips of coffee, set the fence to 1/4", picked of the block and cut the 'Back' off, looked at it and another Oh S%$t, I had cut the pattern (front) off. Back to the computer, printed another pattern and glued it on the New front.. Must have been just a little excited.
First block cut - with reverse pattern. Top came out a bit thick, entry a little skinny.
first block
next 2 blocks and pattern when ok - better yes!
At this point I rounded the blade back, it did make a difference for me.
blocks 2-3
blocks 1-2-3 cut
blocks1-2-3-open
blocksy1-2-3-closed
I got a little screwed up with the double/common entry point, and noticed that my curves got a little thin and a couple a little thick. The entry points glued together very good for me. I think back and remember that I didn't have the brakes on the w-chair, probably was moving backwards a bit, and maybe a little sideways movement, zoom zoom. Use the stool from now on, I'll have a better downward vision path as well. Keep to the procedure Glenn.
Most of the raw drawer cuts had very little blade marks, I was surprised. Did a little sanding and they look good and cabinet needs some TLC,, and some detailed edge sanding.
My 4th block sits in the background without a pattern yes. I can see a double entry - 2, maybe even a 3rd..??
glenn
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8th July 2011 04:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th July 2011, 04:52 PM #2
Glenn
going well & doing good!
One tip, re the box which reminds me of a high heel ladies shoe. The drawer tapers to a sharp point which is not always desireable. Often the tip can break off and the taper makes the process of opening & closing sometimes a bit hard as the tip sometimes gets caught.
What I do, in this instance, is glue the back onto the carcass of the drawer, and before attaching the drawer front, bandsaw a section off to blunt the tip (20mm or so), I then glue the off cut into the cabinet.
I hope this makes sense?Tony Ward
Now a power carver and living the dream.
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9th July 2011, 01:51 AM #3
Yes, I fully agree, high heel spikes.. All three, in the 1st photo, the left one that got a fat outside top, then doing the outer drawer the cuts weren't going to plan, Did get a spear point at the entry as well, very sharp. Actually got a spear point on all three at the entry, the second one finished with a thin lower base and the third with a thin upper left on the outline. Maybe a thinner blade could help correct those mistakes. And more control on the piece being cut.
I know I'll put one on my desk here with a big note on it "caution - go a little slower".
Always appreciate constructive help.
glenn
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12th July 2011, 06:32 PM #4Skwair2rownd
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Doing nicely sire!!
Might try one some day!
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12th July 2011, 09:28 PM #5Senior Member
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bandsaw boxes
HI GLEN
Boxes looking good at this stage, I agree with sculptured box on those sharp points they become a problem some times
regards john.
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22nd July 2011, 02:02 PM #6
hi, my apologies for not replying earlier. The first 3 boxes are done, the point on the 1st was cut back about an inch and glued back in, looks much better. All drawers slide quite nicely.
Sorry, no photos - I have misplaced or lost my camera at the beginning of the week, might have lost it outside cutting the lawn.. a little maddening or on my travels Monday. So until found or Replaced no pics. Like to have it for my records..
But have started a few more, also received 3 boxes of Cedar pieces today from a Spa manufacture near here. How nice, small but usable.
Glenn
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22nd July 2011, 09:35 PM #7Senior Member
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bandsaw boxes
HI GLEN
When i make my bandsaw boxes i try to make a feature of the bandsaw cuts to me it looks more natural, and i use stick on thin felt for the draw slides i find if you take them to markets people pick them up to look at. tThe draws slide out and hit the ground.Then its back to the shed for a touch up.
regards
john.
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23rd July 2011, 01:09 AM #8
Hi John, I just went back to your posting in May and viewed you pics again. Lovely work.
You mentioned about using felt on the drawer bases, I was wondering about that and will give it a whirl, Also the idea of using the openings as a feature. I do have a question - What do you and others do about the interior of the cabinet as far as finishing goes.
Glenn
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23rd July 2011, 10:43 AM #9Senior Member
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bandsaw boxes
HI GLEN
I try to make a feature of the bandsaw cuts by rounding over the actual cut,In regards to lineing the in side of the draw i use blue / green / or burgandy flocking after useing sherlac in side the draw i hope this helps.
john.
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23rd July 2011, 11:01 AM #10
I agree with John about making a feature of the cuts (unless they really cant be seen). A bandsaw box should generally be very fluid (depending on style) and should be rounded quite heavily (in my opinion).
As to the inside it is easier to give it a sand before putting the back on. If you have the back on now it is a little harder. I try to clean it up as much as possible but it will never be as good as the outside. If you can get rid of most of the bandsaw blade marks (if you have them) and then a quick coat of finish then that is enough. If you can see the inside when the drawers are in (on some designs you can), then this needs better preparation and finish.Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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23rd July 2011, 02:11 PM #11
Hi,
I no sooner read the last post and UPS delivered my Lee Valley order, which included 3 flocking kits. A bit before that my Mrs. brought home a new camera.
Well the photo first, the left box I did trim the point off and turned out so-so, couldn't do much with the main tip. The other 2 I left the points on as a reminder to me in my shop. I'm quite sure that I'll improve as my hours go up. Flocking tomorrow. This is the most bandsaw work I've ever done and looking forward to a lot more. My TS is looking at me to do some boxes too. I did sand the cavities before closing them, and some stain and wax as well. Slides good.
Attachment 176855
Have a few more blocks glued up, then a couple solid ones after that, many thanks for your suggestions, comments and guidance.
Glenn
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31st July 2011, 03:26 PM #12Senior Member
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Saw blades for bandsawn boxes
Hi All, Need some advice on best size of bandsaw blade to use for bandsawn boxes, eg width of blade/tpi etc. thanks guys, Brian.
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31st July 2011, 04:43 PM #13
HI Durham Lad, welcome.
I'm quite new to this , at present I'm using a 3/16" 10 TPI, standard, my first box I used a 1/4" - 8 TPI (came with the BS), but will be purchasing a 1/8" - 14 TPI for the small radius designs. Would have like to have had it for the first 3 BS boxes posted. Each size blade has its own minimum radius.
My supplier chart shows;
1/8" - 1/8" min,
3/16" - 5/16" min,
1/4" - 5/8" min
3/8" - 1 - 7/16 min,
1/2" - 2 - 1/2" min,
and upward
glenn,
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31st July 2011, 04:57 PM #14Senior Member
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Bandsaw blades
Hi Glenn, Thanks for the info, explains why with my first attempts the drawers seemed to be a bit to sloppy for my liking. The blade I was using was to wide. Brian
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1st August 2011, 09:17 AM #15
fyi = blade tensioning ~ here is a good guide Online guitar tuner - E A D G B E
If you need further info look at Tony Ward, craftsman of beautiful art sculptured boxes - Bandsaws et al. it has a wide variety of sites to do with blades and bandsaws.Tony Ward
Now a power carver and living the dream.
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