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  1. #1
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    Default Inlay router bits

    I've just grabbed the LMII.com precision drop inlay device for Dremel and Foredom.

    With fine inlays, what Ultra fine upcut router bits do people use? What are your favourites?

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  3. #2
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    Jan 2014
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    Default

    Thats a nice looking bit of kit. I’ve got the StewMac version which I find a little fiddley to adjust. Yours looks more robust. Have you used yours in anger yet?

  4. #3
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    That is one expensive bit of kit woodPixel. But it sure looks nice. I guess those prices are US$ ?
    A quick look at some of the bits on the lmii.com site indicates to me that they're probably all downcut bits not upcut, this is the more usual configuration used by luthiers.
    If you're looking for a set of quality small downcut bits maybe you could have a look a little closer to home, hint, hint.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  5. #4
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    WP,

    +1 for downcut - leaves a crisper edge on these shallow cuts. I have the microfence micro router base:

    https://microfence.com/product-category/plunge-bases/ which I use with my Proxxon. I imagine your Lmii base will have exactly the same qualities - rock solid, smooth as silk and a joy to use.

    I have had good value from miniature router bits bought from Amana Tool https://www.amanatool.com/products/r...uter-bits.html although mainly straight cutters. Also Trend in the UK who have some small spirals
    https://www.trenddirectuk.com/trend-...spiral-cutters and Lee Valley Mini Downcut Spiral Bits - Lee Valley Tools

    I hadnít realised that a certain (ahem) local supplier had such small bits (if he will pardon the expression). I will zip off to have a look at the store

    Most of my long inlays are 6-8mm and I cut them on the table router. However, the Microfence is brilliant for dialling in unusual widths, e.g. if you have an 8.3mm banding and donít want to reduce the size of the banding. My other main use is cutting shallow shapes for things like escutcheon plates. This escutcheon, for example, is 2mm maple and the recess was cut with the little plunge router.

    8B47B80B-F222-41E2-8696-02EDF79D7254.jpeg

    Tip: itís well worth investing in a foot switch from somewhere like Jaycar.

    Brian

    PS. Ooh yes, found a local supplier of small solid carbide downcut spirals:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solid-Ca...MAAOSwFLBacrMy

  6. #5
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    Default

    Lappa --> Not yet. It's still wending its way across the Pacific. They had a 25% sale the other week and I bought it then. It's been in my basket for AGES. Its an expensive bit of kit, but its more in tune with the decorative veneer woodwork and guitar inlay Im seeing myself doing.

    I also have the StuMac one and it's great. For a solid set-and-forget base its marvellous. The only hassle is the plunge mechanism doesnt let me do the extra fine work. Ive a book and video by Larry Robinson (check out his work: https://www.robinsoninlays.com/robin...om-inlays.html ) and he recommends this plunge system. It really lets you get into the little corners. Considering the incredible nature of his work and recommendation, its seems remiss to ignore such advice!

    Aldav you scabby rat! OF COURSE I was thinking about... closer to home...

    I've a few of ... the closer to home... ones and they are great (truly, I love them AND highly recommend them (to any readers )), but they aren't the super fine ones I need (0.8mm and 1.0mm, etc).

    Looking around it would seem that upcut bits in such diameters dont seem to exist. Perhaps at the quantum level these tiny bits work at it makes no difference. Of course, on the macro level of 1/8" (3.175mm) it matters... tearout occurs. Im SORT of thinking that super fine bits turning at 20k rpm dont tear out....

    Anyway! I was thinking there might be a luthier here who knew such things. I've asked the regular luthier forums, but they are very slow compared to the WWF.

  7. #6
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    Default

    WoodPixel, have another look! You know the drill as far as discount, ordering and payment goes. Homey has his wits about him.
    Andrew Armstrong from Armstrong Lutherie would probably be happy to provide a testimoial.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  8. #7
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    Ahhhh, so, its amazing. I also went to my .. closer to home... supplier and went to put them into my watchlist. Lo and behold - already in.

    I'm psychic!

    I'm quite looking forward to trying this new plunger. Im hoping at some stage to also acquire a Foredom tool. Not that the Dremel is bad, but I've killed my older one (the armature spat out a cog) and I dont really want to risk my "good" one given these kinds of jobs can sometimes take hours.

    Also also I've made a CRACKER of a deal with Briggs and Ventech for supply of their full range of veneers. Im super excited to make a massive batch of very fancy boxes.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Lower Blue Mountains
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    Default

    Have a look at https://www.precisebits.com/products...bits/shell.asp
    They have a good range and are long lasting too
    Cheers
    Peter


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #9
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    Default

    OK you mangy scabby rats, here is the new LMII plunge router compared to the StuMac.

    Came in today. Super quick! (Left CA on Thursday, today is Tuesday)

    It is a schmicko little unit. Build quality, as you'd expect from a USA tool, is A++++. The yanks know how to make stuff when they're focused.

    The LMII has the Dremel fitted up already. It fits perfectly, as you'd expect. The tool can mount a Foredom hand tool simply by removing the collar. One buys a lighter set of springs as the Foredom is lighter. I did this, just in case, as they were only a few extra dollars. Better than paying postage twice

    The manner of its operation is very different to the StuMac. The back plate slides left and right allowing for an amazing level of plunge control. Plunge depth is set via a combo of getting the bit fitted into the Dremel collar at About Right, then setting a little winding Allen screw on the rear for a slow, but hyper accurate, depth cut.

    The two tools work differently and I can see benefits in both.

    The LMII is being used for detail work, the StuMac for the macro stuff (haha, macro...)

    If I were to make any changes, so far, it would be the LMII depth is set via a thumbwheel rather than an inserted allan key. I can see this getting to be a PITB pretty fast.

    lmii (1).jpg lmii (2).jpg lmii (3).jpg

  11. #10
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    Very nice piece of kit, WP.

    Good idea to get the necessary bits for the Foredom handpiece - something I also aspire to!!

    Look forward to seeing the upmarket boxes!

    Brian

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    Very nice piece of kit, WP.

    Good idea to get the necessary bits for the Foredom handpiece - something I also aspire to!!

    Look forward to seeing the upmarket boxes!

    Brian
    I've been *hanging* for a Foredom tool for ages... Ahhh, hanging!!

    I'm making a new card box right now. I'll post some pictures in the Boxes forum. It has a laser cut marquetry lid.

    I'd be pleased if my boxes ever became upmarket, but alas, I don't have the talent.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I've been *hanging* for a Foredom tool for ages... Ahhh, hanging!!

    I'm making a new card box right now. I'll post some pictures in the Boxes forum. It has a laser cut marquetry lid.

    I'd be pleased if my boxes ever became upmarket, but alas, I don't have the talent.
    Oh, right. Must be another woodpixel making good looking custom boxes........

    Looking forward to seeing the laser cut marquetry - cut on your own machine or outsourced?

    Brian

  14. #13
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    Yeah, I'm the crappy woodpixel.

    The other one disappeared late last year. He might resurface soon

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