Thread: Painting a Vice - A question or two about preparation.

Assuming you're going to disassemble Bob?

Hot Trisodium Phosphate, rinse in hot water to dry followed by an etch primer. Watch the TSP on some surfaces that aren't to be painted, especially chrome and polished surfaces.

I hope you're going to first braze up that T-slot young man!

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

My question is what would be the best way of degreasing the exposed bare metal prior to filling to best ensure adhesion. I would remove any rust mechanically with a Dremel mounted wire brush. I do also have some effective phosphoric acid thanks to a BobL tip but I don't know how iron phosphate works as a base for filler. .

Iron Phosphate should in general be fine as a base for painting or filling over. If the rust is on a flat surface that you want to keep flat then phosphoric acid may leave a bit of a residue that needs sanding.
Tannic acid is better in this regard.

But I can't see any rust on that vice.

What a cool little vise.
Aaron

Hi BT,

That's a really neat looking vice and worth a first class refinishing job.

I wouldn't use body filler to fill the low areas. I used a product called Blade Putty to patch up the fibre glass guards on my Hercus. It comes in a tube and is more like a cream, really easy to apply and does not require a hardener. Just smooth it on, allow to dry, then sand.

Knowing you, it will finish up looking factory fresh.

Ken

I find the polyester putties a little soft - I've been using epoxy adhesive (either as-is or with filler such as talc or flour depending on the volume) as a way to fill holes and dents.

Another good filler, especially for thin builds, is spray putty, crash repairers use this is a lot.

Places like Supercheap sell it in aerosol and bulk cans.

Pete, Aaron, that's an old photo. This is the previous thread about the vice https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/schaublins-universal-vice-36-a-193678, where Bob made us envious with his $3600 vice.
Post 19 shows Bob's very neat repair for the T slot

Michael

Originally Posted by Pete F

Assuming you're going to disassemble Bob?

Hot Trisodium Phosphate, rinse in hot water to dry followed by an etch primer. Watch the TSP on some surfaces that aren't to be painted, especially chrome and polished surfaces.

I hope you're going to first braze up that T-slot young man!

Bob

If the intention is to braze the slot up may I suggest a piece of carbon (if its still available),machined to the shape of the wider section of the slot, inserted prior to brazing. Carbon blocks were used a bit in the seventies when I worked at the alumina refinery.

The carbon block keeps the braze out of the bottom of the tee slot. The broken section may be then brazed and over-built to allow machining the bronze build up back to an original square edge.

The carbon could tap out but usually fractures on removal.

Grahame

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

Bob

If the intention is to braze the slot up may I suggest a piece of carbon (if its still available),machined to the shape of the wider section of the slot, inserted prior to brazing. Carbon blocks were used a bit in the seventies when I worked at the alumina refinery.

The carbon block keeps the braze out of the bottom of the tee slot. The broken section may be then brazed and over-built to allow machining the bronze build up back to an original square edge.

The carbon could tap out but usually fractures on removal.

Grahame

Hi Grahame,

Thank you for the carbon block idea, it's one to store away. I opted for a mechanical repair as Michael mentioned. There was a minor glitch but all in all the repair worked out OK.

DSC_4254 (Large).JPG

Bob.