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Thread: 12" level - choices
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11th September 2013, 11:17 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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trig and I have never been friends. I worked out the circumference of a 2m circle and went from there.
Got the same answer though :P
Stuart
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11th September 2013 11:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th September 2013, 11:29 PM #171915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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11th September 2013, 11:42 PM #18
It is one of the things I have hardly used and so have forgotten the details. I could look it up but it took longer for the program to load than for me to get the answer once it was loaded. Circumference of a circle will get an answer close to right! You just have to remember that you are taking the measurement along a circular path instead of a straight line.
A mate working with very accurate GPS equipment on a Challenger with long (1200mm) ripper for a vineyard on this occasion, asked the surveyer who was setting out the property, why there was a 400mm difference between the surveyors figures and the ones from the GPS system for property length. GPS works on surface distance, surveys work on straight lines, thru the earth. 400mm would be about right he said.
Dean
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11th September 2013, 11:49 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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12th September 2013, 12:08 AM #20
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12th September 2013, 12:11 AM #21
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12th September 2013, 12:35 AM #22Cba
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For lathe levelling, I found this to be very sensitive. Yet will not drive you crazy. 0.1mm/m per division is more sensitive than what I can adjust with the levelling screws that come with the Hercus 260 between stand and lathe bed.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/to...ml#post1614859
To align, I simply put the level onto the cross slide. No need for a 12" level. 6" is really all you need.
To give you an idea how sensitive 0.1mm/m is when doing lathe alignment: I put the level onto the cross slide of my Hercus 260, then drive the saddle as far to the right as it goes. Now I push the tailstock with a force of about 10kg away from me, to twist the bed. The bubble in the 0.1mm/m level moves by full 5 divisions. And that is with the lathe firmly bolted down onto the heavy steel stand. That is how rigid a 160kg 10" lathe is.
Chris
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12th September 2013, 01:31 AM #23Chief Swarf Maker
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Well dont i feel silly. I used cad as well but it was about 3am so things were a bit blurry when i posted later on.
I think it was 0.02 degrees for a 0.02x1000mm triangle and i lost a decimal point in my sleep (dont you hate that)
Still a great tool and you should all buy one
That eBay seller has great service too.
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12th September 2013, 09:07 AM #24GOLD MEMBER
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12th September 2013, 09:13 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Dam! I just bought one of these
Igaging Angle Cube Digital Angle Protractor Gauge | eBay
for general setting of rough angles and now I was thinking I can use it to level my lathe too!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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12th September 2013, 09:55 AM #26Distracted Member
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So we're agreed the digital thing is for putting up shelves?
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12th September 2013, 12:11 PM #27GOLD MEMBER
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12th September 2013, 12:20 PM #28
Ok
OK Thanks. I was asking because my large Hendey lathe is resting on a concrete floor, that I know slopes towards a corner of the shed . I roughly checked the hendey last night with a builders level across the V ways at each end of the bed .. it seems to be sitting level . The lathe
base is oriented across the slope of the floor - diagonally . I WAS worried
about the Hendey bed becoming twisted permanently
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