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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
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    69
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    1,977

    Default 123 blocks and other stuff

    I have a few sets of 123 blocks (cheap ones) ,I use them frequently on set up and work holding on the mill and on the lathe face plate .
    I bought a set from Shars just recently ,the ones that come in the plastic case ,with 5 3/8 x 16 socket cap bolts .
    I was under the impression that they could be bolted
    together to make a quick angle block or similar .
    Imagine my surprise when I received them to find that the untapped holes don't allow the bolts to pass through.
    A few enquiries and a bit of reading different metal forums ,I came to the conclusion that not all 123 blocks are equal ,some have clearance holes and some don't ,it's a bit of a lottery as to what you get .As a lot of the Starrett stuff is made in China now I guess even thiers don't have the clearance holes either.
    So I came up with a simple clamp to hold them together so they can be used as an angle block .The clamp comes apart for easy storage . The next step is to make some longer bars with more anchor holes for other clamping configurations.
    The long rod is just a temporary thing , an injector push rod from an NT 855 Cummins diesel ,they are good for many uses.

    And a couple of pics of my newly acquired rotary table and a vice I made around 30 years ago .It was never really finished ,it was supposed to be case hardened and ground ,but I left that job and it never got done.
    Still very useful for small machining jobs .

    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

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  3. #2
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Nice clamp idea Kev.
    I to have read about the complaints of the holes not being of any use. What about using some helicoils on the threaded holes so a smaller bolt can be used to fit through the holes?

    Dave

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
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    69
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    Default

    Well I suppose you could but the helicoils probably wont fit the 3/8 x 16 threads , the next thread down from 3/8" UNC is 5/16 and it's 18tpi .
    I bought a set of Artu drills from a guy on Ebay the 10mm may drill the blocks and make the holes clearance for the bolts to pass through .
    Trouble is post has been held up by the Easter break , I'm waiting on heap of stuff from the States as well as from here.
    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  5. #4
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    I wonder if one of those cheaper type carbide tipped boring bar would do it. It could be held in a collet and ground to cut a 10mm hole.

    Dave

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Hi Kev,
    I can't really see my 1,2,3 blocks properly ATM as they are in use, but I dont think they have threaded holes in the end rows. Couldn't you use threaded rod or a 4 1/2" bolt through both blocks?

    Is the 0 ring on your table lockable? I think the one on mine has been modded as it doesnt have the pin and more just a grub screw. Which turned out to be a good thing as I stood the table up during part of the machine on the last job and is would have lost 0 if it wasnt locked.

    Is that vice two speed?

    Stuart

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
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    5,650

    Default

    Where's the O ring?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Sorry BT by 0 ring I mean zero. The ring that has the zero on it (for the graduations on the hand wheel)rotates, I assume to make life a little easier between vertical and horizontal.
    Stuart

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
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    69
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    Default

    Stuart,
    The main hand wheel has a grub screw which Im going to replace with a brass thumb screw rather than fish for an allen key every time I want to adjust it.I did the same for the mill ,it's a PIA fiddling with allen keys.
    The short lever adjusts the back lash and disengages the worm drive for manual turning of the table .
    I'm sure it locks ,will have to have a closer look , haven't had a chance to play with it very much .Made some t nuts for it the other day .I'm quite impressed with the quality of it for the price , table and mounting surfaces all ground finish and a nice fitting MT in the center.Damn thing is heavy to move around .
    I will have to extend the mounting holes in the vertical foot 1/2 " in toward the center of the foot as my table slot centres are 5" centres and don't quite line up with the slotted mounting holes in the base , or use finger clamps hold it down .
    Mean to get a large chuck later ,front through mount if possible ,and an mt3 to Myford thread for the smaller chucks I have .

    Yes a two speed vice ,you can use the brass threaded collar to move the jaw in faster then use the main spindle to tighten .

    None of my 3 sets of 123 blocks have threaded holes in the ends or the edges , a 5/16 threaded rod fits through ok .
    I'm too fussy some times I guess I like to make stuff that looks the part .
    But how about this , I have a pair of 246 blocks from the same supplier , they are threaded 5/8 UNC , and the untapped holes are clearance holes for 5/8 bolts so they can be bolted together ,but only tapped holes in the face ,none on the ends or the edges.
    Kev.
    Last edited by Woodlee; 28th April 2011 at 02:12 AM. Reason: crappy spelling , from a dyslexic keyboard
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    the 123 blocks I recieved from CDCO have 5 threaded holes ( out of all of them) in each face but none on the sides

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
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    74
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    6,132

    Default

    Apologies for raising an old thread..

    I'm looking for 123 blocks (and 246) that can be bolted together to form angle plates, but the ones that arrived today from
    Ultra Precision 123 Block 1-2-3 Blocks Set Plastic Case (eBay item 370516586690 end time 10-Jun-11 23:34:24 AEST) : Business Industrial

    They are tapped on the faces, but not the ends, and untapped holes won't clear the bolts?

    Any ideas where to find good 123 blocks?

    Regards
    Ray

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    539

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Apologies for raising an old thread..

    I'm looking for 123 blocks (and 246) that can be bolted together to form angle plates, but the ones that arrived today from
    Ultra Precision 123 Block 1-2-3 Blocks Set Plastic Case (eBay item 370516586690 end time 10-Jun-11 23:34:24 AEST) : Business Industrial

    They are tapped on the faces, but not the ends, and untapped holes won't clear the bolts?

    Any ideas where to find good 123 blocks?

    Regards
    Ray
    I hear there's a bloke somewhere up your way with a big surface grinder, he could probably make some good ones...

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    I cut some short pieces of rod that will slip in the holes and cross drilled the rod and tapped the drilled hole to 6mm.... When I need to bolt them together I can easily do it...

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
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    5,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Apologies for raising an old thread..

    I'm looking for 123 blocks (and 246) that can be bolted together to form angle plates, but the ones that arrived today from
    Ultra Precision 123 Block 1-2-3 Blocks Set Plastic Case (eBay item 370516586690 end time 10-Jun-11 23:34:24 AEST) : Business Industrial

    They are tapped on the faces, but not the ends, and untapped holes won't clear the bolts?

    Any ideas where to find good 123 blocks?

    Regards
    Ray
    Don't get tricked into thinking these might be any better. A 3/8"UNC bolt will not pass through the non threaded holes in the 2" width of the block. They most probably come from the same industrial province that produces the dirt cheap versions.

    RC's cross drilled dowels would render the blocks much more useful. Handy things just the same.

    BT

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
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    2,557

    Default

    You could fix two threaded holes together with necked bolts - just turn the thread off near the head. It's inelegant but through-bolting with say 1/4" bolts & nuts should work for any combination of holes. I can see the attraction of drilling them all the same size, from a manufacturing perspective.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
    Age
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    Posts
    3,925

    Default

    This feature of 1-2-3 blocks vexes me greatly. It is as though our tool suppliers have all of the insight and sophistication of a Melanesian cargo cult. They commonly manage to misinterpret the features of the tool they copied originally and have no clue as to the use and need of same.

    The little tool and cutter grinders they copied still need the rare and expensive Deckel collets. Other machines have obscure B & S #9 tapers for which no tooling is available.

    The little 9" lathes that they copied weren't the best design in the world either, and now there are scores of thousands of copies.

    Sag 180 started a thread on PM about Bunnings drills: It turns out that all the world's hardware store drills are suddenly the same: negative clearance on the tips, so they don't work.

    I'm glad that I started to collect tools decades ago.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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