Thread: 32mm deep socket needed

Originally Posted by janvanruth

in tightening the big nut you will loosen the smaller one
and its easier to tighten the big one because it is bigger
the cold chisel on the big one will have more leverage

the big one isnt actually a nut
its it a threaded race for the bearingballs
so if you need to damage one of the nuts you better take the smaller one for it is easier to replace i reckon

Good call, will see how I go. I would love to make a suitable tool however I don't plan on doing this particular job again!
Might try and drill near the edge of the small nut with a centre drill to help hold an edge of the cold chisel.

You might be able to find a tap spanner to fit.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-spa...-tss7_p4900075

This is the type of thing pipeclay mentioned earlier
http://www.parktool.com/product/headset-wrench-hcw-7

This one I think
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEADSET-W...item2a40609fea

Originally Posted by Chas

A plumber would use a stillson wrench or similar with protection strips between the jaws and the nut. A good quality shifter might also do the job if used carefully within its limits.

Chas

You must have a better class of Plumber up your way Chas, I have never seen one smart enough to even consider using some sort of protection strips down this way, despite the hourly rate they charge.

Thanks Fella's for the suggestions. I had success. I ended up drilling a corner with a 4mm hole and using a pin punch and some solid whacks. The nut doesn't look pretty.
I greased up the balls and reinstalled. tightening the race until there was no slack then put the lock nut back on after I cleaned it up. Could not do it very tight as of course don't have the right tool. Now I can feel some resistance(minor binding) when the steering is turned to the right. My fear is that its had this loose bearing for so long it has worn a groove in the bearing race. Not to mention cheap ball bearings instead of tapered roller bearings.
I will let my neighbour know the outcome and suggest they take it to a mechanic soonish for new bearings and a locknut assuming they have the 8 pt deep socket
I have had enough of this scooter. Also had to fix a starting issue with it and a new speedo drive off the front wheel and fresh engine oil. Ride it to work tomorrow to make sure I'm happy then back to its owner.
Cheers Max

A scooter is never as good as a decent bike, something like 750+ cc DAMHIKT

Originally Posted by Maxi77

My fear is that its had this loose bearing for so long it has worn a groove in the bearing race. Not to mention cheap ball bearings instead of tapered roller bearings.

Nothing wrong with ball bearings. Many large motorbikes use them.
Too tight adjustment can make for bad feel and handling - better too loose. (Best just right)
I read a suggestion for making your own tube spanner, but possibly only for small sizes:
Find the right sized thin wall tube, and bash the end over the nut, forming the needed shape.

Originally Posted by nadroj

Nothing wrong with ball bearings. Many large motorbikes use them.
Too tight adjustment can make for bad feel and handling - better too loose. (Best just right)
I read a suggestion for making your own tube spanner, but possibly only for small sizes:
Find the right sized thin wall tube, and bash the end over the nut, forming the needed shape.

I have to respectfully disagree in regards to ball bearings at least for use in the steering stem of a motorbike(especially road bike, bad roads and pot holes etc), In fact 1 of the "upgrades" on many bikes is to fit tapered roller bearings and that maybe because the ones used in some bikes are not great. Just because big bikes come with them it doesn't make them necessarily good. Things are built to a budget. Of course some ball bearings are better than others. Caged balls are probably better than loose balls. My Kawasaki Zx7rr uses roller bearings. Again just my opinion. No bearing is good if not maintained and used correctly.
Good idea on the tube spanner