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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
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    521

    Default 3D Taster ruined my weekend

    I spent the best part of my weekend machining a blank out of 1045 steel to make into a motor mount. The blank was perfect and accurate to 0.03mm. Freshly stoned and looking great. I lined up the part with my Haimer 3D Taster, zeroed it in on the X and Y and off I went. I cut a boss in the top of the part. After cutting the boss the part looked a bit off. I got the calipers and sure enough it was out by ~1mm on one side (X travel) and ~0.6mm on the other. And off by the same amounts on the Y travel. I resisted throwing the part at the wall and cleaned up the mill.

    Checking the 3D Taster:

    1) Zeroed it on X and traversed to the other side and zeroed and my 58mm block was measuring on my DRO as undersized by ~1.7mm.
    2) Zeroed it on X then Pushed the taster to the right reaching Zero - did a visual check with a drill point and scribed a line (using the drill), measures out by 1mm from the actual edge. Pushing the taster to the left, and same drill but measures out by 0.6mm
    3) Zeroed it on X put a dial indicator against the block to measure the taster travel to zero, measured 2.35mm. (should be 2mm)

    I verified the DRO was accurate using a dial indicator. So the taster is definitely the culprit.

    Now how do I adjust this thing to fix the zeroing?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
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    4,304

    Default

    What does it so for the Z axis?

    Is the shank in the centre?

    You know how to check that the shank is in the centre and adjust to suit?
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    What does it so for the Z axis?

    Is the shank in the centre?

    You know how to check that the shank is in the centre and adjust to suit?
    I did not test the Z axis. I never use it to set the height.

    Shank should be in the center, but no idea if it actually is. I am not sure how I would measure if the shank is in the center of the taster? I am not sure how to align the shank. There are four hex bolts down from the shank, but I am not sure what these are for. Almost looks like it is how one would remove the shank.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    This is the procedure that RC is talking about.

    taster (Large).jpg

    (this thread - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...46/index3.html shows some of the insides and adjustments too)
    Michael

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
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    521

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    This is the procedure that RC is talking about.

    taster (Large).jpg

    (this thread - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...46/index3.html shows some of the insides and adjustments too)
    Michael
    Thanks Michael. I will give that procedure a try.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    521

    Default

    The plot thickens.. as it turns out my Taster was most likely within spec. After following the instructions and trying for an hour and a half to set the concentricity, I was just about to call it a day. I could get it to within 0.1 but that was clearly not right. No matter how much I fiddled with the adjustment screws, I could not get it to run true. I used 3 different dial gauges (Interapid DTI, Mitutoyo test indicator and my Brown and Sharpe plunger type test indicator), but the ball kept moving off the opposing ball. It seemed like there was too much pressure from the taster and with it not running true it kept skipping slightly. I even tried running the gauge off the taster probe shaft (not the ball). Still no dice.

    In a last ditch attempt I threw the mill in low gear and let the Taster spin. I noticed the taster probe shaft was wobbling all over. I stopped the mill and pushed on the taster probe shaft. I quickly learned that the probe tips are a screw-in type. Which is really nice to easily swap a new one in. The problem is that mine had worked lose quite a bit. After tightening the little blighter I was then able to set the concentricity via the screws to a point where I could not see it moving off 0.01mm on my indicator. I then did a quick rough measurement test and sure enough with my DRO it was measuring perfectly. So for the record, if the probe tip is lose, your readings could be off by ~1.6mm. I guess I can put this down to a lesson learned. Hopefully this helps someone else who is having the same problem. Could have saved myself a boat load of time..

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    Well all is well that ends well...

    Yes the tips do screw in because they are disposable... They are designed to snap should for example you way overtravel the taster and save the taster mechanism from damage, plus they come in two different lengths as well...
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    521

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Well all is well that ends well...

    Yes the tips do screw in because they are disposable... They are designed to snap should for example you way overtravel the taster and save the taster mechanism from damage, plus they come in two different lengths as well...
    I guess the good news from it all is that I now know my taster a bit better. There is something satisfying knowing that I have set the concentricity to as good as my gauge can measure. I had never measured it previously as it all tested out fine with a Mitutoyo standard and my DRO.

    I had no idea the probes were so easy to replace. The concentricity screws are also very handy. All in all a really nice design.

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