Which 8 inch Rotary Table to Buy?

Dave J · 15th November 2012, 05:28 PM

Congratulations on your new table, I knew once you seen them in person you would pick the 8 inch.
As for never using the graduations, think back 10 years ago and you would not have thought then you would be working in sub millimeter dimensions?

As for the quality I agree they are not brilliant, but do the job at a reasonable price. On my table it was disappointing to see the hold down slots finished so rough, there are a few other things but there only minor. They advertise as quality tables but they just need to take the extra 10 minutes on the machining line with finishing them better, then you wouldn't feel so bad handing over the cash. I was also disappointed in the tail stock machining as I never opened it until I got home.

As for the table Bob posted, years back before all these Taiwanese and Chinese imports where available it was all you could buy, so model engineering was an expensive exercise. Without the imports a lot of us wouldn't be into machining at home. I remember being in my mid teens and having blokes machine stuff for me, back then it was only a dream to have a home shop of my own.

Think about buying a 4 jaw chuck just for the rotary table until you get around to making an adapter.
A 160mm 4 jaw is only $154. This way it can be mounted on a dedicated back plate to go onto the rotary table easy.
I have on which is drilled to take all my lathe chucks, but my lathe came with back plate mount chucks, where the H&F lathes don't.

Dave

**simonl** · 15th November 2012, 06:56 PM

Hi Stuart, Hi Dave,

Yep I now own a rotary, and it's not a mazda!

Stuart: No the RT came with nothing but grease! That's OK I have an M12 and M14 clamp kit so I got that game stitched up although I do need some bolts. Sometimes even the smallest stud is too big. I resisting the temptation to take the RT apart but I probably will. I love seeing how things work and how they have been engineered. I also like replacing Asian grease & paint/bog (in this case Taiwanese grease) with my own clean grease. Although probably no bog. I also noticed some cast iron machining dust in the T slots, I'd hate to think that there may be some on the "hardened and precision ground" worm and gear! Who knows, the bearings may even be brand name bearings!

Dave: yes you have a point, If it was not for cheaper Chinese products I would never be able to afford what I have now so I am at times harsh on such products. I just find it frustrating why they don't spend just 10% more time on some products. I would be happy to spend an extra 10% for it!

Hey guys, WRT using the chuck on the RT, in the interim can I simply make a round block, bore 3 holes for the D1-4 pins, 3 more for the T slots in the RT and use a clamping kit to clamp the chuck to the RT? Perhaps a bit rough and ready and maybe a fiddle to fit the clamps in between the chuck jaws but maybe OK for a quick fix?

Cheers,

Simon

**Michael G** · 15th November 2012, 08:12 PM

You can certainly do that to space your camlock chuck. I'd also be looking on ebay for a chuck - as it is not attached to the lathe it is not spinning at hundreds of RPM, so all it needs to be able to do is clamp properly - a decent looking front mount chuck should not be hard to find.

Michael

**Stustoys** · 15th November 2012, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by simonl

Hey guys, WRT using the chuck on the RT,

It all sounds a little tippy to me. If I am picturing what you are trying to do and sizes etc correctly there isnt anything to stop the chuck moving/rotating, if the chuck moves with the clamps being so high and loose* one might fall off, if one falls off the other two will fall off.

Having said all that if you are only using a 6mm cutter I wouldnt let it worry me to much.

Stuart

Dave J · 15th November 2012, 09:39 PM

If you want to use your chuck for now, make up a back plate for the table, unscrew the cam locks, then counter sink some bolts from underneath into the cam lock threads to hold it.
The chuck is 160mm and the table is 200mm, so that gives you 20mm each side to drill some holes for the T nut bolts to go.

Dave

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