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Thread: Adapting morse taper
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7th June 2014, 11:26 PM #1
Adapting morse taper
Got some 2 morse taper drive dogs that i used on my woodworking lathe but the ends have worn so i'd like to recycle them for other purposes. I want to attach shafts/flatten ends to these morse taper stubs but am wondering how to hold these in a 3 jaw chuck on the metal lathe so that i can adapt them for other purposes, can't think of a way to do this but maybe someone out there can.
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7th June 2014, 11:31 PM #2
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7th June 2014, 11:33 PM #3Distracted Member
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If the chuck had soft jaws you could bore them to suit the taper. Otherwise you'd need to make a morse socket with a straight OD to grip in the chuck. What's the spindle taper on the lathe? Might be better to buy or borrow an adaptor for that.
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7th June 2014, 11:38 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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I am not 100% sure on what your asking. If you are wondering how to hold the morse tang in a 3 jaw, you could make a two piece bushing with flats milled into each side. Then clamp in the 3 jaw. Or you could drill a hole in some AL, and use a piece of HSS (or even a chisel - doh, tool abuse!) to square out the corners. Then use a set screw to hold the tang in place.
Edit: If you want to hold a morse taper in your 3 jaw, you could bore the taper on the lathe in some round stock, then split the stock and clamp accordingly in the 3 jaw.
That all being said, I am not 100% sure on your question..
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7th June 2014, 11:44 PM #5
Thanks for the quick replies, over time the ends of the drive dogs have worn to the point where they don't grip well. Have got a 4 jaw chuck but its pretty inaccurate, the spindle taper on the lathe is a 3 morse taper, adaptor sounds like a good idea.
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7th June 2014, 11:58 PM #6
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8th June 2014, 12:01 AM #7
I think one of the problems here may be the cross over of terminology between wood and metal. We all know what a metal drive dog is but i'm betting this is what Tiger is working with
app_4_pro_dri_cen.jpg
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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8th June 2014, 12:14 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Hmm, but - Edit.. think your right!
Bore the taper then split in half (or just use a slitting saw/hacksaw/bandsaw to cut one side down the length to create a gap, which when put in the 3 jaw will clamp the taper..) down the length? Or bore the taper and put a couple of set screws to ensure the taper it holds it does not spin?
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8th June 2014, 12:51 AM #9
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8th June 2014, 03:34 AM #10
Yep ! I assumed wrongly, that they were for turning between centres on a metal lathe.
Thanks for the enlightenment.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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8th June 2014, 07:46 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Tiger,
I am pretty confident I have a 2 to 3 morse taper socket you can borrow if that would help.
Phil
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8th June 2014, 09:58 AM #12
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8th June 2014, 06:14 PM #13
You can buy them quite cheaply on ebay. I have a few different sizes, they are OK for occasional use.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lathes-Pa...22360911&rt=ncBrad.
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9th June 2014, 08:41 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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I have two of those Morse reducing sleeves/adaptors. A 3 - 2 and a 4 - 3.
Both from different suppliers, both have runout.
I don't like them.
I wouldn't use them for anything where high accuracy is important.
If you do use one, check runout with a test gauge.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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9th June 2014, 09:02 PM #15Pink 10EE owner
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Are these tools you wish to modify hardened?
If attempting to use a morse taper sleeve, it may not be very successful... Like trying to use a milling cutter in a morse taper drill chuck, the morse taper just falls out all the time... They need to be retained with a drawbar...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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