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  1. #1
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    Default Adapting morse taper

    Got some 2 morse taper drive dogs that i used on my woodworking lathe but the ends have worn so i'd like to recycle them for other purposes. I want to attach shafts/flatten ends to these morse taper stubs but am wondering how to hold these in a 3 jaw chuck on the metal lathe so that i can adapt them for other purposes, can't think of a way to do this but maybe someone out there can.

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    Got some 2 morse taper drive dogs that i used on my woodworking lathe but the ends have worn so i'd like to recycle them for other purposes. I want to attach shafts/flatten ends to these morse taper stubs but am wondering how to hold these in a 3 jaw chuck on the metal lathe so that i can adapt them for other purposes, can't think of a way to do this but maybe someone out there can.
    Hi Tiger,

    A picture would help...
    However a four jaw chuck on a metal lathe would be the way to go. I must admit I'm curious to learn how the ends have become sufficiently worn to make them unusable.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  4. #3
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    If the chuck had soft jaws you could bore them to suit the taper. Otherwise you'd need to make a morse socket with a straight OD to grip in the chuck. What's the spindle taper on the lathe? Might be better to buy or borrow an adaptor for that.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    Got some 2 morse taper drive dogs that i used on my woodworking lathe but the ends have worn so i'd like to recycle them for other purposes. I want to attach shafts/flatten ends to these morse taper stubs but am wondering how to hold these in a 3 jaw chuck on the metal lathe so that i can adapt them for other purposes, can't think of a way to do this but maybe someone out there can.
    I am not 100% sure on what your asking. If you are wondering how to hold the morse tang in a 3 jaw, you could make a two piece bushing with flats milled into each side. Then clamp in the 3 jaw. Or you could drill a hole in some AL, and use a piece of HSS (or even a chisel - doh, tool abuse!) to square out the corners. Then use a set screw to hold the tang in place.

    Edit: If you want to hold a morse taper in your 3 jaw, you could bore the taper on the lathe in some round stock, then split the stock and clamp accordingly in the 3 jaw.
    That all being said, I am not 100% sure on your question..

  6. #5
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    Thanks for the quick replies, over time the ends of the drive dogs have worn to the point where they don't grip well. Have got a 4 jaw chuck but its pretty inaccurate, the spindle taper on the lathe is a 3 morse taper, adaptor sounds like a good idea.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by variant22 View Post
    I am not 100% sure on what your asking. If you are wondering how to hold the morse tang in a 3 jaw, you could make a two piece bushing with flats milled into each side. Then clamp in the 3 jaw. Or you could drill a hole in some AL, and use a piece of HSS (or even a chisel - doh, tool abuse!) to square out the corners. Then use a set screw to hold the tang in place.

    Edit: If you want to hold a morse taper in your 3 jaw, you could bore the taper on the lathe in some round stock, then split the stock and clamp accordingly in the 3 jaw.
    That all being said, I am not 100% sure on your question..
    Variant, think you've nailed it, just looking for a way to hold the tang in a 3 jaw chuck, your idea sounds good, having a little trouble visualising it but it's late at night, will think about it tomorrow, thanks for the idea.

  8. #7
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I think one of the problems here may be the cross over of terminology between wood and metal. We all know what a metal drive dog is but i'm betting this is what Tiger is working with
    app_4_pro_dri_cen.jpg

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I think one of the problems here may be the cross over of terminology between wood and metal. We all know what a metal drive dog is but i'm betting this is what Tiger is working with
    Ew
    Hmm, but - Edit.. think your right!

    Bore the taper then split in half (or just use a slitting saw/hacksaw/bandsaw to cut one side down the length to create a gap, which when put in the 3 jaw will clamp the taper..) down the length? Or bore the taper and put a couple of set screws to ensure the taper it holds it does not spin?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I think one of the problems here may be the cross over of terminology between wood and metal. We all know what a metal drive dog is but i'm betting this is what Tiger is working with
    app_4_pro_dri_cen.jpg

    Ew
    Correct EW, you guys are on the ball, sorry for any confusion.

  11. #10
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    Yep ! I assumed wrongly, that they were for turning between centres on a metal lathe.

    Thanks for the enlightenment.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  12. #11
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    Hi Tiger,
    I am pretty confident I have a 2 to 3 morse taper socket you can borrow if that would help.

    Phil

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Hi Tiger,
    I am pretty confident I have a 2 to 3 morse taper socket you can borrow if that would help.

    Phil
    thanks for the offer Phil, probably a good piece of equipment to own so may have to purhase one as i think this is a job i may be doing more than once.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    thanks for the offer Phil, probably a good piece of equipment to own so may have to purhase one as i think this is a job i may be doing more than once.
    You can buy them quite cheaply on ebay. I have a few different sizes, they are OK for occasional use.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lathes-Pa...22360911&rt=nc
    ​Brad.

  15. #14
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    I have two of those Morse reducing sleeves/adaptors. A 3 - 2 and a 4 - 3.

    Both from different suppliers, both have runout.

    I don't like them.

    I wouldn't use them for anything where high accuracy is important.

    If you do use one, check runout with a test gauge.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  16. #15
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    Are these tools you wish to modify hardened?

    If attempting to use a morse taper sleeve, it may not be very successful... Like trying to use a milling cutter in a morse taper drill chuck, the morse taper just falls out all the time... They need to be retained with a drawbar...
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

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