Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    somewhere out there...
    Age
    48
    Posts
    8

    Default Need advice on drilling thick metal.

    I have a old shipping container that is to be used as my studio.
    Only problem is there are no holes to run an extension cord into it so I need to make a hole in it big enough to get a power cord plug through.

    The metal seems fairly thick - as I suppose most shipping containers are ,
    so what should I use? A drill bit, a grinder or an oxy?

    andycapp

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,466

    Default What to use

    Andy,
    More info will be needed
    All you mentioned will do the job in one way or the other. Not having dealt with any shipping containers I ,for one do not how thick the metal is.

    • Thickness of the metal will best determine the process used to cut your hole.
    • Secondly the finish desired after the hole is put there,will play a part in that decision too.You will need a smooth finish to avoid cutting the lead insulation and creating an obvious electrical hazard.
    • Thirdly the hole size ,will it have to be a minimum size needed to limit water ingress-around 40 mm for a plug.
    • I would estimate it would be somewhere around 6mm, but I reckon Ashore will know exactly how thick a shipping container is.
    • You also might consider a holesaw which will leave a circular hole of selected diameter yet allow the sharp cut edges to be radiused fairly easily.


    Could you drill a hole to suit cable diameter and then remove the plug ,pass cable through and re attach plug ? - under direction of a certified electrical contractor of course- as none of us here would ever dream of making unauthorized electrical connections-would we fellas ?

    Cheers
    Grahame

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
    Age
    85
    Posts
    3,737

    Default

    I don't think the side of a container would be any more than 3mm thick so a holesaw at slow speed should do the job. Containers get their strength from the corrugated profile.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    somewhere out there...
    Age
    48
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Is there special hole-saws for metal?

    Yep - no unauthorized connections around here officer! LOL!

    andycapp

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld.
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andycapp View Post
    Is there special hole-saws for metal?

    Yep - no unauthorized connections around here officer! LOL!

    andycapp
    Yes there are, usually fairly expensive compared to the average ones for timber. Well worth the price though, as they'll cut stainless steel or timber.
    If you opt for just a hole to fit the cord (not the plug) and refit the plug later, your average twist drill bit will go through the steel. Maybe put in a smaller pilot hole first. A larger hole as you planned will allow vermin in as well!

    Cheers,
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Whatever size hole you drill make sure you protect the cable by using a gland. The edge of the metal might cut through the cable and give you a tickle one day.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,466

    Default Holesaws

    Hi Andy
    If you go the hole saw route be aware that hole saws can be purchased individually but will need the arbor to able their use in a drill chuck.

    Arbors come in various sizes to accommodate the range of various diameters of holesaws available.

    The photos indicate the style of hole saw you would be looking for plus the arbor.

    Grahame

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    33
    Posts
    76

    Default

    how much would one of those be Graham? arounf 100bucks/?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,466

    Default Purchase price of HS

    Not that much

    I think the last time I bought one it was about under $40 for mandrel and bi metal hole saw 35mm Pferd brand at, you guessed it -United fasteners. less than a year ago.

    Grahame

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,643

    Default

    Price depends on size and quality.
    Try Engineering Tools - the link is to their basic hole saws. they do work well.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Mac View Post
    Yes there are, usually fairly expensive compared to the average ones for timber. Well worth the price though, as they'll cut stainless steel or timber.
    If you opt for just a hole to fit the cord (not the plug) and refit the plug later, your average twist drill bit will go through the steel. Maybe put in a smaller pilot hole first. A larger hole as you planned will allow vermin in as well!

    Cheers,
    Listen to Andy, Andy. It's a bit crazy to drill such a big hole in a container when you can take a plug off in five minutes and refit it after pushing the cord through. The only further advice I'd give would be to slip some sort of strong insulation over the cord where it goes through the hole. A small length of garden hose maybe. You should be able to drill a 12mm hole with an ordinary twist bit that would accomodate this hose.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,803

    Default

    It just so happens that yesterday my Seatainer was delivered. I'm turning mine into a drying shed for timber slabs. The first thing I did was to cut a number of holes for vents etc.

    The containers are indeed 3mm thick mold steel so normal steel drills go thru them very easily.

    I used an 1mm kerf 115 mm diameter cutting wheel to cut 6, 150 x 200 mm vents and 2 x 300 mm diameter whirly bird exhausts. Cutting the circles with the grinder was done by cutting about a 20 sided cut.

    I haven't done the power connection yet but my plan is to drill a 1" hole and use a piece of threaded black poly plumbing pipe with a poly nut on both sides as a gland for the power cable.

    I'm also thinking of installing some simple fire suppression, Temp sensitive sprinklers connected to an external tap.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post

    I haven't done the power connection yet but my plan is to drill a 1" hole and use a piece of threaded black poly plumbing pipe with a poly nut on both sides as a gland for the power cable.

    You might as well do it properly, Bob, and use flexible conduit with saddles and self-tappers. I like the sprinkler idea,

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rossluck View Post
    You might as well do it properly, Bob, and use flexible conduit with saddles and self-tappers. I like the sprinkler idea,
    Now that you have prodded me I remember where I put a couple of metres of flexi conduit! Thanks Rossl.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

    Default

    If you want to do it properly, why not use one of the external sockets that are used on caravans?. You don't have to worry about cutting off ends of extension cords, waterproofing and all that stuff - looks all good and proper, too.

    Easy to replace the extension lead when it gets old and tired, and if you trip or run the mower over the cord, it will tend to yank out of the socket rather than transfer the stress to the cord.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Metal Filler/Putty what to use
    By aussieorchid in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 27th August 2007, 11:08 AM
  2. Drilling advice
    By lubbing5cherubs in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 18th February 2007, 10:49 PM
  3. Need advice on Nail Gun Nails or Pre Drilling Merbau Decking
    By barrysumpter in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 17th November 2006, 11:40 AM
  4. Drilling Acrylic Blanks
    By PenTurner in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 24th October 2006, 06:48 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •