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  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Perth
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    Wow, looks like this thread has come back to life!

    Nayler, that's understandable, I've got quite a few projects like that too.

    Was also thinking mesh rather than wire, since it gets around the problem of having too much tension on the end poles. However, then the trick is how to attach it to the posts, I guess welding is the only way? Never welded before, is it easy?

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    725

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    Hi Naylor,
    • I'll put in another vote for standard concrete instead of rapid set. I reckon your 3m sail will crack the rapid set.
    • I also reckon the gal steel is a much better option than the treated pine. The wood will bow and warp if it's free standing, even if it looks OK at first.
    • Definitely have cross brace, whether it is pipe or capping rail, etc.
    • Before you erect and cap the uprights, make sure you put tip heaps of rust inhibitor down the sides, rotate it so all the inside is covered - then it's only external rust you have to worry about.
    • With digging in sand, try a soaker hose a day beforehand, but turn if off that night, so that you don't get slumping when you dig the next day.
    • Instead of a straight trellis, you could make it a zig-zag sort of profile to give it more lateral stability and visual interest, but this would probably need to be a welded frame.
    • pashionfruit is a pretty good idea. I had one that grew 10cm a day.


    Cheers

    - Mick

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

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    Quote Originally Posted by Koborrow View Post
    Wow, looks like this thread has come back to life!

    Nayler, that's understandable, I've got quite a few projects like that too.

    Was also thinking mesh rather than wire, since it gets around the problem of having too much tension on the end poles. However, then the trick is how to attach it to the posts, I guess welding is the only way? Never welded before, is it easy?
    The mesh I was talking about is too thin to weld. I will probably screw it to the top edge (C channel) with tek screws through a piece of flat steel strip. If you use 3mm or thicker it should be easy to weld but I think you would need to do some trials beforehand. That would be a bit of money spent on mesh and you would not want to stuff it up.

    I don't think you would need to weld it though. Use thinner mesh and support it from the top edge. If the top edge is strong enough you should not need any end tension on the uprights.

    Dean

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    13

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    I've already got the 50mm galv SHS, so I'm good for the posts. The only thing I'd consider treated pine for is cross pieces - and they'd need to be wide enough not to sag over a 2.4m span. Not sure if 140x35 would do - any wider would get expensive.

    The wire is an interesting problem. You don't want the vines to sag the wire, so the lines need to be sufficiently tight - but not too tight as to pull the frame in. Using fasteners for my project would be very expensive very quickly, so I was hoping tek screws and tightening by pulling the wire in might work. The cheaper option is mesh - either 2 rows of 1200mm or 3 rows of 900mm rolls to make up the 3 metre height. Over 24 metres that would work out to under $150. I would fasten it to the sides using baling wire and the top cross piece using tek screws.

    I do like the zig-zag profile drawn by Mick, but the amount of steel required would almost double. Nice tip about the inhibitor inside the posts though.

    After working a bit with rapidset, I'm also completely against it for anything that will endure lateral forces - it's weak as hell and hard enough to mix when working in shallow holes, let alone 1.5m deep holes. Real concrete is cheaper and stronger, just more work.

    The only way to dig out 1.5m deep holes will be to use an auger - there is no way I can get a post shovel down that deep. Pre-soaking is also a must in Perth - our sand is like dust.

    Keep the comments coming - they are great.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Far West Wimmera
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    I still like the idea of mesh but on the subject of pulling the wire in tight enough to stop sag I would not worry too much as it will still work with a bit of sag and the vines will hide it. A couple of vertical wires in each panel will also help the support. Just attach at the top and wrap around each wire several times on the way down. Poor mans mesh. Easy for me to say tho. I am soon going to have several kilometers of redundant single strand fencing wire when I replace part of my boundary fence with cyclone.

    On the subject of Passion Fruit vines. A neighbour from years ago had a normal type growing in the middle of his yard. I think it was growing normally and had nice fruit but not huge numbers. We rarely got any. Behind the back fence was a timber mill. Ugly, noisy and dusty. The back fence was 6 ft chain link plus 2 rows of barb from memory. They grew a Banana Passion Fruit on this fence to hide the mess. It grew at many times the speed, was way way thicker in width and dense enough to totally block vision. It was also much higher. It was actually growing up into some sugar gums near by. Fruit? Massive numbers. Problem was I like normal ones but I just did not take to these.

    Dean

  7. #36
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    3

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    Just one question, how would you attach glav tube cross pieces to the glav posts? Is this done with some kind of bracket and tek screws?

    I understand how the top rail would attach using a c frame, since gravity will hold it over the tops of the posts + tek screws on the sides, however with a H frame the cross piece will need to be at the middle of the posts.

    I'm still debating whether to use wire or mesh for my project, first I thought I'd use wire, but was also worried about the tension forces, which would require the cross pieces to counteract the tension forces, but using mesh would probably still require the cross pieces to attach to, and I'm not quite sure how i'd attach the mesh since I imagine it would have a significant weight itself.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
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