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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I took the drain tap of my compressor and attached a 24 V retic solenoid to the drain junction. The solenoid is powered via a 24V retic transformer which I power via a standard GPO from inside the shed (mine compressor is outside my shed. You could also wire the solenoid power to the compressor switch so that it automatically drains when the compressor is turned off.
    My water trap has a valve that releases when the pressure gets down low. Just enough to blow out the water. Could put one of these on the tank as well. My 45kg tank is outside with the compressor just inside the wall. I will eventually move it outside as well. More quieter.

    I don't use the compressor switch because it keeps turning itself back on . Caused some confusion at first. I was positive I turned that off before I came inside! Well obviously you didn't did you. I had to . I eventually caught it out .

    Dean

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  3. #17
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    I wouldn't worry about the rust too much, that's quite normal.

    If you worry about your tools, why not install a simple compressed air filter? Get a big enough one, or you will create a huge pressure drop over the filter when you use a lot of air!

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirCompressor View Post
    I wouldn't worry about the rust too much, that's quite normal.

    If you worry about your tools, why not install a simple compressed air filter? Get a big enough one, or you will create a huge pressure drop over the filter when you use a lot of air!
    Thanks. My compressor is still sitting just inside the shed door at the moment. I will put it back when I have sufficient need of it. It does not have a real home any more. After positioning my mill the space next to it where the compressor normally sits has been designated a tooling cupboard loaction. As I haven't made the cupboard yet the compressor just gets poked in there for now. I have an old horne sewing centre that SWMBO has given me. She also gave me a set of plastic drawers about 65mm deep which will fit in the sewing centre leg room space. I will cut it to just fit these and will have the original wooden drawers as well. It is ply so should be long lasting. Lots of drawers. Will need to build enclosure outside for the compressor tho.

    I have to make up a steel pipe drying system like nearnexus (Rob) posted his video on. I don't think I need to go to the extent of refrigerated moisture removal. I have some 100mm SHS. 2.5m of that standing up would extract moisture and provide extra storage. Air in 100mm or so from the bottom, out the top, then air hose down to water trap and regulator at an accessible height. I am just thinking of what I have on hand that would do the job.

    Dean

  5. #19
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    After seeing nearnexus (Rob) video on the pipe set up I want to do something similar. Is galvanised pipe OK to use, or is there another alternative that others have considered? Copper? Stainless? etc....

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTVi View Post
    After seeing nearnexus (Rob) video on the pipe set up I want to do something similar. Is galvanised pipe OK to use, or is there another alternative that others have considered? Copper? Stainless? etc....
    That's just one way of doing it.

    There's quite a few and a look on YouTube shows them.

    You can also use a condenser from a car air conditioning system (the thing in front of the radiator) in a similar way, with a drain off point and trap.

    I just used some plain scrap galv water pipe and fittings I had laying about the place.

    I got the original idea from Mick at Paramount Browns who just used one large diameter steel pipe.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  7. #21
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    Default video

    can someone please post a link to the video?
    how about pvc for the air lines?

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    how about pvc for the air lines?
    Definite NO on that one. PVC pipe shatters when impacted so there is potential for air propelled PVC shards to go everywhere. Nylon and PE are the recognised plastics or airline use.

    Michael

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    can someone please post a link to the video?
    Make a compressed air drier from junk water pipe - YouTube
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Definite NO on that one. PVC pipe shatters when impacted so there is potential for air propelled PVC shards to go everywhere. Nylon and PE are the recognised plastics or airline use.

    Michael
    On this same issue, I once had the clear acetate bowl on a CIG regulator/drier let go big time on that compressor.

    Went off like a grenade, and that particular model didn't have metal shroud around the bowl. Neither does the Schrader fitted ATM.

    No harm done but gives you a bit of a fright.

    Close examination showed it had stress fractures panning out from the hole for the drain point.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    can someone please post a link to the video?
    how about pvc for the air lines?
    If you mean to use it for the vertical tubes as per Rob's idea, not only consider Michaels warning but also remember that the purpose of these tubes is to cool the air inside. This requires a material with a good Thermal Conductivity which realistically rules out anything but metal. Copper (385) would be the best commonly available metal followed by Aluminium (200ish). Gold is ok (314), Silver a bit better (427). Steel (Carbon) is actually low in comparison (36) and Stainless Steel even lower (16.3). If you want the best apparently Diamond is very good at 1000 or more. I have just pulled these figures from Wikipedia.

    As a comparison Polyethylene has a value of 0.42.

    Thinking outside the square! Large diameter steel pipe with a spiral of copper tubing inside which has water circulating thru it. I am going to have a wander around my junk storage piles and see what looks good and is not already allocated for another purpose.

    Dean

  12. #26
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    And then you have the home brew still feeding in from the other side.

    I see where this is heading.

    Sounds good though

    The mass of the metal used is really the determining factor as I see it - steel pipe takes a hell of a lot of thermal energy before it heats up.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    And then you have the home brew still feeding in from the other side.

    I see where this is heading.

    Sounds good though

    The mass of the metal used is really the determining factor as I see it - steel pipe takes a hell of a lot of thermal energy before it heats up.

    Rob
    Hmm. Are you cooling the brew with the air or cooling the air with the brew? You would need two outlets. Just be careful you don't get them mixed up.

    Re the mass of the metal. Mostly correct but remember that the thermal conductivity also determines the rate at which the steel absorbs heat. In practice it is unlikely to make too much difference in a home shop situation.

    Dean

  14. #28
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    I have some copper pipe. I was thinking of using this for the air compressor cooling pipe work.

    Does anyone recommend the compression type fittings, or should I go for the soldered/brazing fittings? (or does it not matter? I can do both easily)

    Just wanted to know of anyone else's experience. Anybody used either of these for their air compressor pipes?

    I'm only mounting the pipes up against the shed wall. (not internally anywhere)

  15. #29
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    Default air piping

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    If you mean to use it for the vertical tubes as per Rob's idea, not only consider Michaels warning but also remember that the purpose of these tubes is to cool the air inside. This requires a material with a good Thermal Conductivity which realistically rules out anything but metal. Copper (385) would be the best commonly available metal followed by Aluminium (200ish). Gold is ok (314), Silver a bit better (427). Steel (Carbon) is actually low in comparison (36) and Stainless Steel even lower (16.3). If you want the best apparently Diamond is very good at 1000 or more. I have just pulled these figures from Wikipedia.

    As a comparison Polyethylene has a value of 0.42.

    Thinking outside the square! Large diameter steel pipe with a spiral of copper tubing inside which has water circulating thru it. I am going to have a wander around my junk storage piles and see what looks good and is not already allocated for another purpose.

    Dean
    hi i put my foot in it again. I was referring to pvc for the air distribution piping not the drier part of it
    nice post
    aaron

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTVi View Post
    I have some copper pipe. I was thinking of using this for the air compressor cooling pipe work.

    Does anyone recommend the compression type fittings, or should I go for the soldered/brazing fittings? (or does it not matter? I can do both easily)

    Just wanted to know of anyone else's experience. Anybody used either of these for their air compressor pipes?

    I'm only mounting the pipes up against the shed wall. (not internally anywhere)
    The fittings on the compressor will all be compression type.

    Doesn't really matter. Compression fittings are a lot more expensive.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



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