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  1. #16
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    You don't .... around Ew !

    Looking at your drawing I'm wondering how much movement you are going to achieve with a thumbscrew pinching 30mm of steel. FA probably. How about another partial saw cut at right angles to the threaded hole?

    BT

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  3. #17
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    You don't .... around Ew !

    Looking at your drawing I'm wondering how much movement you are going to achieve with a thumbscrew pinching 30mm of steel. FA probably. How about another partial saw cut at right angles to the threaded hole?

    BT
    Hi Bob,
    That is my big worry too, and also why i'm thinking of having 50mm of steel past the threaded hole to get some leverage. Maybe separate threaded mounts that bolt to the main block like the commercial would be better. Even just 2 lengths of 25mm square with a similar split and thumb screw at each end. Bolt them down and drill clearance holes for the threads in the main block.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #18
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    Hi Ewan,
    what if you continued the split past the threaded hole (for the cone parts) to give you more leverage when clamping.

    Phil

  5. #19
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    There are other ways of clamping things so they don't move. A brass pad in front of a screw is a common one and someone here recently used a cotter arrangement to clamp an indicator stem. Out of something softer than the thread that would work too.

    Michael

  6. #20
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Now who was it that used that cotter arrangement again?

    How bout we lose the term clamp and call it a backlash/play eliminator? I may not even need to worry about it straight away, the first thread was cut to be a nice fit in a sample hole, and the rest were cut to +-.0005" over wires. As suggested i may not really have to "lock" the cones in place, the threads just need to be a nice fit.

    One other thing i found out about this type of base is for doing large jobs the scope can be set up in the middle of the work and flipped 180 deg, something that can't be done with the spherical mount type. Not that any job i foresee doing will be big enough to warrant that!

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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