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Thread: Am I mad
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25th February 2014, 04:04 PM #46Cba
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Be very careful with a DIY VFD on any grinder.
If you go for a VFD, take precautions to make sure you cannot accidentally set the VFD frequency above 50Hz. Do not rely solely on setting the max frequency parameter in the software to 50 Hz. There should be at least another safety interlock independent from the VFD, like an rpm meter that will activate the emergency stop if the 50Hz speed is exceeded. There also are VFD which are hardware speed limited, especially for things such as grinders, but because demand for such VFD is low prices are too high to consider for a home grinder VFD conversion.
The thing is this, each grinding wheel has a maximum safe speed. If exceeded the wheel is likely to explode due to centrifugal forces. And a stock standard VFD has no problem whatsoever to spin a grinder motor at 2 to 3 times its 50Hz base speed.
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25th February 2014 04:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th February 2014, 04:20 PM #47Pink 10EE owner
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Stuffed if I know... For all we know the people welder talked to may not have even heard of running a motor on 240V three phase via a VFD...
You can come across people who have worked in a field their entire lives, but know stuff all about anything outside the common everyday things they do....
Just have to read some of those american forums to see that when they come across a to them non standard thread like 1/2" X 12 and it has them totally confused, because it is whitworth, but they have never heard of whitworth before, because it is not the norm...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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25th February 2014, 04:39 PM #48SENIOR MEMBER
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25th February 2014, 07:48 PM #49Senior Member
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My guess is that you are getting the "I really don't want to do this but if you're silly enough to pay it I will" quote.
From the rewinders point of view, when they do a complete rewind they know exactly what has gone into the motor and that there should be no waranty issues.
When you ask them to simply extract the common and wire it out delta, you are effectively asking them to warrant the windings of a motor whose history they have no visibility of.
If they work your motor, they have to consider that if, in a months time it smokes out, you might come knocking on their door to make a warranty claim against their workmanship even though the burn out might have nothing to do with them.
Then you might even go to the point of bagging them out to others if they deny your claim and so on an so forth.
Of course I'm not implying that you personally would do such a thing but this is something that they need to consider.
Long and the short of it is they need to factor the cost of this rework into the initial quote.
I would bet that if the rewinder knew you then the quote might be more in line with your expectations but as a walk in, this quote sounds perfectly reasonable to me.
FWIW you strike me a a fairly inteligent kid so I would say have a crack at the conversion yourself.
When you next go to TAFE go have a chat with an instructor from the electrical engineering dept and my bet is they will be willing to advise you on the process and will probably even test it for you afterwards.
Most important, and I can't stress this enough, if you do have a go yourself, get it tested by someone who knows what they are doing before you take it anywhere near power, dead lasts a long time.
Worst case scenario, you bugger it up and you're up for a $400 rewind,what have you got to loose?
Cheers,
Greg.
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25th February 2014, 08:35 PM #50
Why do they want to rewind the motor? I thought you just want them to find and externally terminate the star point? Is there soothing else wrong with the motor or did you ask the wrong question? I paid $100 for a particularly difficult motor once, but the guy apologised... I would have thought $50 was the going rate.
Try again asking for the right quote 'Splitting the star point and bringing out the three ends to connect the motor in Delta' that's all. 'How much for just that?'Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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28th February 2014, 03:22 PM #51Senior Member
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Dear PDW,
What are you running with a 25hp motor?
Cheers,
Joe
p.s. Good score Andre!
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28th February 2014, 06:08 PM #52SENIOR MEMBER
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3rd March 2014, 05:04 PM #53SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Andre,
Just noticed your quote for motor re-wiring, so i dug this up:
HI,
Thanks for all the replies and advice. I picked up my motor today from Austins at Lidcombe. Cost $70 bucks and all good to go (not that I'd really know). Will now be looking for a suitable VSD.
Cheers Ben.
All I did was take the motor to them and explained in a not so convincing way what i wanted. Worked out cheaper than the phone quotes I originally got for a 1/2 hp 3phase motor.
Ben.
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8th March 2014, 02:51 PM #54future machinist
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I am going to give it a try with the motor wired as is will see what happens
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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9th March 2014, 01:15 PM #55future machinist
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Well I have it wired up but the motor turn very slowly and I can't get the speed to change no matter what I do
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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9th March 2014, 01:21 PM #56
What sort of VFD did you get?
Did you get my last PM?
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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9th March 2014, 01:26 PM #57
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9th March 2014, 01:32 PM #58future machinist
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The vfd says the motor has 50hz and is going 2800rpm but in reality it's only turning at around 80 rpm
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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9th March 2014, 01:51 PM #59
Hi Andre,
Wiring looks ok at first sight.
Disconnect any load from the motor and check that motor spins freely when not powered?
Check VFD current limit settings.
Ray
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9th March 2014, 03:17 PM #60
<Moderator please insert electrical safety warning here>
Hi Andre,
Do you have a multimeter that can measure 240 VAC? Next question, do you have or can you borrow an AC clamp meter?
If so, and you don't find anything mechanical wrong, the next step is to start the VFD, set it to 50.00 Hz and measure the phase voltages.
Be aware these are lethal voltages, and you must use proper insulated probes and take extreme care,
1) Measure Voltage between U and V terminals
2) Measure Voltage between U and W terminals
3 )Measure Voltage between V and W terminals
They should all be 200+ volts AC if not, power down and disconnect motor, then repeat test with motor disconnected If you aren't getting 200+ volts per phase there's a problem with the VFD.
Next if we have 200+ volts per phase, use the clamp meter and measure the motor current in each phase. The current should be close to the same in each phase.
Ray