Thread: Arboga EM825 mill/drill

BT, I bought it at an antique shop just north of the bridge into town. I seem to recall that it came from Albany, but that maybe the years (and beers) talkin'.

It had a japan-like orange paint on the metalwork, and has mahogany wood. 1913 patented adjuster. I seem to recall that the Americans removed patent dates from their castings after 13 years, not sure if the same was true of the Brits. It is pitched at 50º, and will take a reliable 0.001" shaving.

Having said that, I have an small Mathieson bronze coffin-sided smoother with no adjuster that I like better. It too is mahogany, but pitched at 53º. It is about #3 size, and heavy. It makes my L-N planes seem ordinary.

Good chance then that Dave might still own that 51, Greg.

I found a post WW2 A5 at a tool seller in Portobello Road back in 1985. Cost me ninety quid and I was over the moon for about ten minutes. I wallked into another shop and there before my eyes was a beautiful open handle Spier coffin smoother for the same price. I wasn't flush with money then so I had to be content with the Norris. The Spier was Brazillian rosewood filled unlike the poorly painted beech of the A5.

The beech had next to no appeal and I replaced it with something called "Amazon " rosewood. I sold the plane during the time that we were paying 18 % interest on our home loan and we were on the bones of our a..ses. Fortunately, I didn't throw my Stanley's overboard at the same time.

BT

It was after my bedtime when I typed the previous post. It was not a Spier plane but a Spiers. Sorry.

BT

A few weeks back, I ordered a manual for my Arboga EM825 from Tony, in the UK.

Arrived today. For $50, I'm disappointed. There are only a few pages devoted to the EM825, the rest is on the U2508, however, the machines are similar.

There is virtually nothing written about changing speeds via the gearbox. On the plus side, there is a nice exploded diagram of the head assembly with all parts numbered, including bearing numbers.

Reckon that $50 would have been better spent on tooling. Live and learn I guess.

Ken

KJ,

I've been there as well. I had bought an old knackered Progress drill press just after acquiring my first Hercus. I found a manual on Tony's website. From memory it cost about $70 because of the poor exchange rate 8 years ago and the cost of a money order. It had enough in it for me to realize that the machine was probably beyond resurrection but I did think it was pretty expensive at the time.

Nearly bought another, more expensive photocopy from him for the 13 but he never responded to half a dozen emails I sent requesting the total cost. Did himself out of about a hundred bucks. Phillip " Metalman" sent me a superb scanned copy of the catalogue instead.

Tony provides a fantastic service with his catalogue and manual copies and his website is a pleasure to explore and if there is no alternative, you take a punt and spend the dough.

I did end up buying a copy of PM forum member Wrench's DVD. It's chock a block full of material relating to Deckel and Schaublin machines but alas, has nothing on Arbogas.

Why don't you ask the question about a specific manual for your mill on the Yank forum?

Bob.

AB.

I did inquire on the PM forum re an Arboga manual. Not one reply. I found this hard to believe.

I did however receive about 20 pages from a member here. They were most useful. Can't recall the member's name.

Ken

Hey KJ,

You may have already seen this and are contemplating selling the Sher to fund the purchase. It would look very nice on your mantlepiece.

Rare Arboga UM400 Modelers Mill Sweden Hercus / Myford (eBay item 110659179507 end time 08-Apr-11 09:58:11 AEST) : Industrial

BT

AB,

What a find, that would make a perfect sister to my Unimat 3 lathe/mill, on the mantle piece. Looks lovely, but at that price, I don't think so.

Well spotted, I had no idea they existed. Greg might snap it up, he seems to love the European beauties.

Ken

That guy has been putting a lot of rare and expensive gear on ebay as well as some Chinese stuff. Not sure if he is a dealer of just come across a treasure chest at an auction.

Dave

KJ,

Do you have saved searches on Ebay? If there is something I am interested in and I've searched for, let's say Schaublin, there is a prompt saying "save search". Click on that and I receive an email advising me of any new listing of Schaublin items.

Works well. No wonder my play money goes quickly.

BT

Originally Posted by neksmerj

AB,

What a find, that would make a perfect sister to my Unimat 3 lathe/mill, on the mantle piece. Looks lovely, but at that price, I don't think so.

Well spotted, I had no idea they existed. Greg might snap it up, he seems to love the European beauties.

Ken

Not me Ken, all of my play dough is gone for awhile. That's the one I was telling you about the other day. It is like a Deckel FP-1 foetus.

Came into contact with my Arboga again today, for about 10 minutes. I was anxious to bring home the large knurled lock nut that retains the arbor in place. I was worried that my newly acquired ER32 collet chuck, would not pass through it. It does, so we are in business.

The photo shows from L to R, the new ER32 collet chuck, the original Clarkson collet chuck, the knurled lock nut, and various C-washers. The two narrow washers must be for different chucks.

Just need to fit the ER32 into the spindle, mark where to mill a slot on each side, and Bob's your uncle.

Ken

Ken
How does the C-washer hold the chuck in? Surely not the half-moon groove on one side?
Do you have it handy? can you grab a picture of it assembled?

Stuart

Hi Stu.

Yeh, you are right. If you enlarge the photo, and look at the original Clarkson collet chuck, you can just make out a circular groove around the fat part of the body.

The idea being is to insert the arbor up into the spindle, slide the C-shaped washer into the circular groove, then bring up the large knurled lock nut from below. The lock nut presses the C-shaped washer up against the end of the spindle, or just a tad shy, say 0.5mm.

By this time the taper of the arbor will lock into the tapered bore of the spindle.

It's done like this as there is no provision for a draw bar. The motor above the spindle prevents this.

Hope this makes some sense. I could knock up a dwg if you are still lost.

Ken