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Thread: Ball bearing oilers
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13th September 2013, 05:38 PM #1
Ball bearing oilers
Are pretty crap from the factory installed on your machinery!!!!
Half of mine didn't work and half of those I couldn't get working after cleaning all the crud out.
I bought 6mm replacements that H&F stock in their spare parts dept for the sum of $4.00 each (what a rip).
At least I know their all working..............( at least for now).
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13th September 2013, 06:08 PM #2Distracted Member
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How about 4 pounds for 20? Button Oilers
They're still nasty, but at least they're also cheap!
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13th September 2013, 06:41 PM #3
#####.....that's a hell of a lot cheaper!
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13th September 2013, 07:57 PM #4
Warning ,Danger Will Robinson.
Before you rush in and buy up cheap,check.
Are the sockets 1/4" that is 6.35mm diameter or are they 6mm as in my Chinese lathe?
Count yourself lucky and stop whingeing, the Australian agent for Git oilers wants $30 each.
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13th September 2013, 09:59 PM #5Philomath in training
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16th September 2013, 07:22 AM #6Senior Member
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Don't suppose anyone has come across right angle flip cap oilers? I'm assuming thread is 1/8" npt given the origin of the machine.
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16th September 2013, 04:51 PM #7
I found this source:
Oil Cups (Bent)
HTH,
Jan
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16th September 2013, 05:01 PM #8
How about these off ebay
8mm Thread L Type Spring CAP OIL Grease CUP Silver Tone | eBay
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16th September 2013, 07:21 PM #9Philomath in training
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I have an orphan right angle flip cap oiler but it is a drive in type (8mm hole or there abouts). The machine that I bought it for is long gone, so if it is any use then sing out. I guess you could put a 5/16 thread on it if you wished (I can't imagine that anyone would put an NPT thread on an oiler as there is 3/10ths of bugger all pressure on them - but stranger things have happened)
Michael
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16th September 2013, 07:27 PM #10
Very kind of you Michael but I have a dozen or so already.My friendly local engineering supply shop was given a sample ,6mm ball oiler sans ball.
Back came the replacements which seemed to have grown to 6.35mm. Rather than take em back , I propose to drill out the 6mm socket to 6.35.
Do my erstwhile colleagues find any flaws in that idea? Do you think an end mill in the drill is a feasible idea?
Grahame
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16th September 2013, 07:31 PM #11
Just use a drill bit Grahame. Go for a 6.3mm and they should be a nice press fit. You may even be able to go 1/4", but I'd try it first on some scrap. If all else fails loctite them in....
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th September 2013, 07:32 PM #12
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16th September 2013, 07:33 PM #13
Or I'll do you a swap, got plenty of 6mm here.....
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th September 2013, 07:40 PM #14Philomath in training
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I would start with a twist drill and then use an endmill to square up the bottom of the hole. Going straight in with an endmill may jerk the casting around as it will not centre in the existing hole. Mind you , if you are just taking the hole from 6mm to 6.35mm, a normal drill is probably all you need.
Michael
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17th September 2013, 06:56 AM #15Senior Member
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Some good leads.
Originally Posted by Michael G
Did stumble across what looked like ball oilers at CBC yesterday in a variety of thread forms by coincidence - not that they're of use to me at present. Now just need to find 1" wide V belts for the variable speed drive - all the above is designed to lubricate, seems Doall bandsaw ones are not carried by Gates in this country.....if the bloke behind the counter is correct.
Bill.
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