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6th January 2012, 08:01 PM #16
Hi Joe,
Wow, how's that for service, and amazing generosity!...
Not sure on the cross feed capacity of the shaper, but, we can give it a shot.
Alternatively I could do it two setups on the surface grinder, the surface grinder will do around 700 x 300 ( 28" x 12") I would set it up upside down and grind the bottom flat, then spin around 180 and do the other side.. then flip over and do the top, referencing off the ground bottom surface... might work..
Regards
Ray
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6th January 2012 08:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th January 2012, 08:09 PM #17Dave J Guest
Hi Joe,
Good onya John for helping out a fellow member.
That is what I have found with this forum over the years, it's like the good old Aussie spirit of helping your mates out.
I will be watching you table with interest, always think of making one when a job comes along that needs it, but never get around to it.
It should be a solid table when your finished.
Dave
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6th January 2012, 08:34 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Joe,
another +1 for a big for John.
Dont shapers generally have a crossfeed that matches the stroke?
Ray,
That center circle looks to be about 250dia so you'd be able to get that in one pass maybe. (be you would need something like 370mm from the wheel to the column)
Stuart
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6th January 2012, 09:00 PM #19
Hi Stuart,
Just a quick and rough measurement, I would say that the shaper is 18 x 18 plus a bit..
The SG, would fit the table inside the coolant splash guards, plenty of room to the column, it's about 400+ from the chuck edge to the column, so moving the splash guards it would fit easily.
Regards
Ray
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6th January 2012, 09:10 PM #20Dave J Guest
Hi Stuart,
Shapers are usually sized to do a cube the size of the stroke.
Dave
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6th January 2012, 10:16 PM #21
Thanks all for the input.
Ray, I think surface grinding would be a bit over the top - and while the size might fit, the bloody thing is VERY heavy - crane needed to reach across to sit it on a SG.
Because two or three people can reach either side and front of a shaper table, that would be easy enough. The surface finish from a shaper will be plenty good enough anyway. I think a fair bit (maybe 3mm might need to come off to make it flat. Its just a rough cast surface, thoroughly rusted. If we did indeed tackle this, I's get it sand blasted first.
What would however be REALLY good would be some T slots. I know that is possible with a shaper as well, but I have no idea what's involved.
I've been giving the mounting some thought and turned up a flanged 90mm spigot as a starting point to mount the bearing cone onto the bottom of the table (in the position shown in one of the photos). Next, I'll look for a piece of pipe that I can turn a 147mm step into to mount the bearing ring in.
At the bottom of that, I'll then weld in a stepped bush for another smaller taper roller bearing. I'll be then able to 'visualise' how to support that 'hub' with my stands (if indeed they turn out to be suitable).
It's taking shape in my head at least.....
Joe
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6th January 2012, 10:27 PM #22Distracted Member
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I think T slots are usually done with a tool forged or bent into an L shape. Or two of them ideally. The clapper is locked. After cutting the vertical slot in the normal way of course. If I were Ray I'd want to try some simpler stuff first.
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6th January 2012, 11:10 PM #23Dave J Guest
I agree with Bryan, Ray will be on a steep learning curve as it is.
I notice CTC has T slot cutters with inserts available for not so much. At least it's only the tips you throw away instead of the whole cutter.They would last longer than HSS as well.
Dave
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6th January 2012, 11:32 PM #24
Yes correct, cutting T slots with the shaper is a fair way down the track, from where I'm starting. For Joe's job just getting it properly flattened will be a good exercise.
From Joe's description it sounds like I'll need to get the crane setup just to position it..
Regards
Ray
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6th January 2012, 11:45 PM #25
Two or three people can fit it onto the shaper table no problem, Ray. To lift it onto the grinder table you would need the engine crane because you would have to reach across - and its too heavy for that.
I was only dreaming about the T-slots - that was not a request.
I expect to drill and tap a few holes into it to fasten welding clamps etc onto the top as needed.
Joe
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18th January 2012, 03:53 PM #26Novice
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Im Probaly a little late now, but if you are still interested I have a couple of used bearings at work (see photo) they are self aligning but with a bit of creative thinking you could get around that.
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18th January 2012, 04:51 PM #27
Thank you very much Brett! It looks like this beating might actually be too big...
In any case the large truck bearing I now have - in combination with a large car wheel bearing I already had will work out nicely I believe.
But someone else may have a use for such a massive self-aligning bearing.
Cheers,
Joe
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18th January 2012, 05:20 PM #28Senior Member
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I would hate to see the price for something like that new. Any ideas what it would be worth?
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18th January 2012, 05:34 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
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What a great door stop, assuming you have a rather large door.
Any idea what it weighs?
Stuart
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19th January 2012, 12:17 AM #30Novice
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- Aug 2009
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- Brisbane Aus
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Its an SKF explorer series bearing, we get them discounted because we deal with so many, but even then that size will set you back close to $5000.
On some of our larger machines the drive shaft will be 600mm in diameter with a 1m diameter bearing to go with it, those bearings cost around $30,000.
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