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Thread: Ball Turning Tool
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8th January 2013, 11:43 PM #46
Greetings Roberto...not for a few weeks yet. But I can post the plane or the adjuster to you in the meantime if you want.
The forum is giving me the sh*ts tonight. I am typing on an ipad and I brush up against one of the ads on the right side of the screen which opens a new page.
Maybe having had three hours of sleep in the last 28 has made me cranky?It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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8th January 2013 11:43 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th January 2013, 12:01 AM #47.
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I'll wait till you make it over here. I'm sure I can find something to occupy myself with in the meantime.
Go to bed.
BT
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9th January 2013, 12:27 AM #48
[QUOTE=Anorak Bob;1595427
Go to bed.
BT[/QUOTE]
Can't. At this time last night we were climbing put of Shanghai, heading east towards Japan before the turn towards Guam. So now I am on the night shift for a few days.
Plus, I am giddy from the fumes of turps. I have been cleaning Twoey tonight. So far got about three litres of swarf and two rolls of blue towels gone. I might be almost halfway there. Once the gross cleaning is done I need to peel back all the bellows...I'm sure theres another kilo of chips and swarf under them.
I had no appreciation of how big a six inch Vertex vise on a swivel base is. Must be 60 kgs all by itself.
GQIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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9th January 2013, 12:34 AM #49.
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9th January 2013, 12:50 AM #50New Member
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Well that ball turner has caused me to come out lurking to say that it looks absolutely fantastic.
I think it's going to take me a few years to get a ball turner looking as nice. Thanks for sharing Anorak Bob
Mike.
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9th January 2013, 12:56 AM #51.
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9th January 2013, 02:05 AM #52
I am amazed at the quality of the Vertex vise. It looks like everything you could hope for: solid, no jaw lift, chunky. I have a 4" Glacern vise for the FP-1, and this Vertex looks to be as accurate. The Glacern is reputed to be as good as a Kurt; this Vertex is that good too. No lift on the jaws, dead nuts parallel. I have a six inch Rohm for Twoey, so the Vertex will be sold off to fund more repair parts.
GregIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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20th January 2013, 08:31 PM #53.
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Blackfast unfastened.
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20th January 2013, 10:22 PM #54GOLD MEMBER
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You win BT, looks great!
Stuart
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20th January 2013, 10:45 PM #55
Looks good Bob Now isn't that better than painting one window???
Did you use linseed or similar to blacken, or is it just heated until bluey purple?1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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3rd February 2013, 12:27 PM #56Philomath in training
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As I seem to be one of the few without a ball turning device, I finally got around to making one (oh, and the need to make up a handle for the shaper)
The design was inspired by a picture in a NEME-S newsletter (NEMES site - NEMES Home Page) where a member had made a turner that fitted the QCTP on his lathe - neater I think than removing the tool post. I did think about a side to end type but the up and over style appealed to me because it can have fine adjustment more easily incorporated.
The version I eventually made can sweep a radius close to 75mm, so I could do a 6 inch ball if I wanted to (why?), and the knurled knob on top gives me around 30mm of adjustment so I can adjust DOC. The dovetail is secured using a gib. Some parts (such as the handle) are still in development and the more observant may notice that I haven't yet cleaned all the blue off but I wanted to try it out. I'm still debating whether a worm drive is needed. For small balls no, but larger ones may perhaps benefit. Pictured is a nylon ball around 35mm in diameter and on the lathe is a steel ball around 1/2" diameter. The cutter is just a piece of broken off tap - I know none of you guys ever break them but I being impatient and kacky handed have a couple around...
P1010573 (Medium).JPG
Michael
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3rd February 2013, 03:53 PM #57.
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Neat Michael,
Your turner has the advantage of a controllable slide. I also like the facility in yours for additional cutter placement. I had fooled around, spurred on by laziness, with the idea of an up and over setup based on existing parts but discovered that I didn't have enough room (sounds like a theme). https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/so...9/#post1403079
Previously I had said I'd post some Schaublin ball turner images. I'll get onto it. What's interesting, for me anyway, is that the turner for the 150 is an up an over.
BT
I got onto it. First two photos are from a 1943 SV70 catalogue. Next is the beautiful turner featured in the 102 catalogue from 1966. Then the more rationalised design from 1984 for the 70 lathe followed by the '76 150.
Finally a 102 turner belonging to Tien Nguyen Binh "Deckelite", a regular poster on PM and the French forum Usinages and the owner of some of the most wondrous machines I've seen.
ps. I just realised I hadn't answered Ewan's question about the colouring of the steel. I've never tried linseed. I've found that carbonised sump oil rubs off. Is linseed any better? The blue purple is torched and quenched in the same filthy sump oil. It doesn't carbonise because the steel is not as hot. I guess I could use clean oil, it wouldn't make such a mess on the concrete shed floor.Last edited by Anorak Bob; 3rd February 2013 at 06:34 PM. Reason: finger out
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3rd February 2013, 04:12 PM #58
Nice work Michael,
I too like the adjustment, much better than on my factory one, where the only adjustment is how far out the cutter is hanging......
Picture saved for yet another future project.....1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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3rd February 2013, 06:25 PM #59Philomath in training
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Bob, what you can't see from that picture is that the tool holder has a large step cut into it (around 25mm) to provide more room - I figured that the shaft had to be rock solid in the rotating dovetail so the interface is long. When I started putting things together I decided I'd better step the tool holder or I'd have a similar problem. The back surface of that part clears the tool post by 1 to 2mm. I also trimmed down both the dove tail parts so that I managed maximum clearance to the spindle centreline.
Michael
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3rd February 2013, 06:40 PM #60.
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