Thread: Bandsaw Update

I have made 200 mm cuts with mine by taking the jaws off and clamping the piece to the base but the coolant delivering pipes now reduce that to ~180 mm.

I like the way that the screw cap on mine can more or less seal the tank. That means when I move a full tank I can seal it so that I don't spill the coolant everywhere. I have a have some 9" pvc pipe but the price of caps for it is a bit over the top. The simple push caps are over $25 and the threaded caps are nearly double that, whereas I already had the all the 6" fittings left over from my DC set . I paid about $3.50 for the 6" push on cap and $7.50 for the threaded 6" cap.

That confirms my guess. 225mm stuff is not all that common. One of the bandsaw update pictures I saw recently showed a large plastic kitchen container as a tank. I am leaning more towards the bucket. It will have a handle for carrying.

Dean

Dean,
Hopefully that is a bucket with a lid. A mate had a horrible stink in his shed that took a while to find. A mouse had gone for a swim in his lathe coolant.

We had a guy on the side of the road up this way selling clean 10-12 liter Yogurt buckets, he had a van full of them in the morning. He had $1 each on them with lids, so I bartered for 30 for $10 as it was the end of the day and he didn't want to take them home.
He said they where from his shop and usually got thrown out, so he thought he would try and sell them, which he did.
Might be an idea to ask you local shops down your way as they probably get thrown out. Not sure what type of shop sells that much Yogurt, and forgot to ask.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Might be an idea to ask you local shops down your way as they probably get thrown out. Not sure what type of shop sells that much Yogurt, and forgot to ask.

Dave

For the florists we have a huge selection of buckets. They range from mayo, sweet chilli,and aoli to raspberry danish filling etc. They come from take aways and bakeries, so that is where I would look, although a lot of places send their buckets back to be re-used these days.

Ewan

There you go, you might get one for free.
I am not sure why this guy was selling them as they looked brand new and where completely clean.
If anyone around my area wants one for a coolant tank and can pick it up, give me a yell and you can have one.

Dave
Edit
Forgot to add I got mine from just down the road from Morisset mega markets, so anyone down that way keep your eye out for him on the side of the road just down from bunnings.

Rod

Dean,
Hopefully that is a bucket with a lid. A mate had a horrible stink in his shed that took a while to find. A mouse had gone for a swim in his lathe coolant.

That would be a yes. Holds water and has a decent lid. First 2 requirements. Should think about covering my lathe tank tho. Bit harder. It is part of the casting of the tailstock end leg. Mice etc are chewing a lot of baits at the moment. I was thinking of making a bucket style self setting trap for them. Not plastic tho. I bought a plastic humane trap some years ago that caught the mouse and you could then let it go somewhere else, like the incinerator. Worked well if you checked it often. Then a mouse chewed its way out.

I have seen plastic buckets for sale at a bakery for $3.00. They are available from plastic and rubber stores etc for about $30.00

We use cleaning stuff at work by the pallet load. They are 10 kg in weight. 15 litres marked on the buckets. During vintage someone was knicking them (casuals) and empty ones were hard to find. We use the empties for a lot of stuff too. Everyone was told to stop taking them without asking. Made no difference. Must have been a market. Coolant tanks maybe? I have about 70 or 80 all told with lids so I don't bother anymore. A lot are used and a lot are destined to be used for various things but if anyone is passing (LOL) drop in and I will give you one as well.

If you look at my existing coolant tank on page 1, post 7 you will see another container I can get but not in such numbers. This blue container is a 5 litre version of the more common 20 litre ones. The rectangle ones with recessed handles. I bring them home because they are going to make a very cheap storage system. Cut off a side or in half and you have a drawer with a handle. I already have a lot of stuff in the square type ones cut in half but the little ones will be fitted to a shelf unit designed for them. Part of my plan to clean up my shed.

Dean

I have decided to seriously consider a hydraulic control cylinder for my bandsaw.
Who has made their own? The only version I have been able to find is on MikesWorkshop and I want something a bit different. I have some ideas but as usual I am looking to pick peoples brains for suggestions.

One thing I have wondered about is dropping the arm down to position the material etc. Is this done just by opening the needle valve up to allow faster flow?

Dean

Thats how they work, and there is a one way valve the other way so you can raise it. Ebay has cheap cylinders new from China and also the one way (check) valves with a needle flow control all in one. I got looking the other week (again, LOL) and see it's all still available..

Dave

How much is cheap and what do you look for. I have searched everything I can think of. I will have a look but I think I can make one for about 25cents and it will be a good learning experience. Otherwise whats the point of having a lathe.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

One thing I have wondered about is dropping the arm down to position the material etc. Is this done just by opening the needle valve up to allow faster flow?

Don't do it that way. Yes thats how they do it but in my humble opinion it sucks.
Its a pita, its not to bad when you are knocking out 10off of something as you only lift it just high enough. But if you need to lift it right up you then need to open the valve a turn or two, then reset it.... which can be a pain on thin stuff.

If I ever get around to it I'm going to plumb the valves to the front of the machine. Using the needle valve and two ball valves, one to the needle valve and one bypassing it. (a pressbutton valve would be nice but I havent seen one that didnt cost about half the price of my saw lol.

Stuart

Thanks for the heads up Stuart. It was something that I have not seen any mention of and at the very least would dictate minimum needle valve size. I will get frustated if is slow. I recall reading about a final drill size of 1mm after the seat. That is something that I wondered about.

I am going to try and fit it to the front of the saw if I can. My current thoughts run along the line of 2 ali blocks as ends, with the cylinder and another tube (return) clamped between the two blocks via threaded rods. Suitable seals at each end. I had already wondered about two return tubes, one with a valve. If I fit valves on both returns I can have a stop system without touching the needle valve position. This only requires machining extra grooves and oil ways in the ali blocks. One return pipe goes direct to cylinder for dropping the arm the other goes via a needle valve.

Dean

G/day Dean, there is a couple of pic's here https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/sh...ml#post1478703 and here https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/sh...ml#post1478909 of the hydraulic cylinder I put on my b/saw.

john

Thanks for the pics John. How did you make the cylinder? What is the reason for the pivotting bar in the middle as opposed to direct connection.

Dave J said

Thats how they work, and there is a one way valve the other way so you can raise it. Ebay has cheap cylinders new from China and also the one way (check) valves with a needle flow control all in one. I got looking the other week (again, LOL) and see it's all still available..

I have tried to find them on EBay but with no success. I don't know what to call them.

Dean