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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    The other thing to consider is don't build your shed under/too close to an ETSA power line.

    They are very strict about access issues in SA.

    My Bro in law put a car port/open extension on the side of one of his sheds and ETSA made hime take it down as it was too close to an overhead power line.

    Lots of rules/regs/snags these days.

    Rob
    They were obviously concerned about it growing up and interfering with the lines. What annoys me is when they cut down or trim trees that were planted or grew before they put the line in without thinking about it.

    Dean

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  3. #32
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    What amazes me is what the pre-fab sheds get away with. Mine was as soggy as a wet wheetbix until it was all braced and had some sheeting on. Several of the frames tried to fold in half at the peak as we stood them up, as they only have a plate bolted on one side of the c section trusses. I had to add collar ties in as every time i got on the roof the trusses would sag and i'd have to jack them up again....

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post

    Hell I am surprised in this day and age the person doing the welding does not have to be approved as well... And the steel it is made from certified.. And as well the person building it has to be trade ticketed..

    ...

    Here it is a bit simpler... Anything 200m or more off the road used primarily for primary production is exempt from all the regulations...

    In the real world does not matter what you do here, being so far away from the powers that be, they leave us alone...
    If it needs to be engineered find an engineer who can sign it off and ask them to do the design based on your materials, then do the drawings yourself and get them to sign them off.

    My understanding is that generally materials need to be new and the welding done by someone with a trade... but i wouldn't ask the council if this is the case directly instead find out what the general requirements are for building a shed and see what comes up.

    I'm on a rural block a long way from town and no approvals at all required for sheds.. its great.

    It has always amazed me how much the regulations vary between states and even different councils within the same state.

  5. #34
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    [QUOTE=gallegos;1699396

    It has always amazed me how much the regulations vary between states and even different councils within the same state.[/QUOTE]

    Very much tightened up in SA - seems to be ever since a (new) major golf clubhouse collapsed and killed a woman a while back.

    Had timber beams/trusses that were badly engineered and made - from what I read. The large open/unsupported roof fell in.

    Getting back to ETSA - in SA they inspect all country powerlines with a helicopter once a year according to the Bro in law (full on farmer), so any buildings and trees etc that are too close get the chop, one way or another.

    I am not aware of a ban on using recycled materials, and the recycled building supplies do a roaring trade in SA. Once it's painted how would you know ?

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  6. #35
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    Default regs etc

    Thanks for all your thoughtful comments and words of caution and senses of humour.

    If welding qualifications are required then I am happy to do the yards at "school" and sit the tests. Hopefully it won't be a waste of time since a lot of the theory is already instilled in the memory banks and a sound weld is something I can recognise and produce.

    other regs will be followed too.

    know any retired engineers/draftsmen who want a project?


    regards and happy metalworking !


  7. #36
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    Karl ....like this you mean?

    the overrun of the top chord in my sketches do give a more "building" look rather than a shed look in my opinion.

    the other reason being that if the overhang is carefully considered it can allow northern winter solar gain and the higher elevation summer sun streams excluded through the building openings ( sliders or windows, clerestory etc).

    there are some formulae for window placement and eaves overhangs with regard to latitude/longitude.

    onwards and upwards through the red tap jungle I climb
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  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Hell I am surprised in this day and age the person doing the welding does not have to be approved as well... And the steel it is made from certified.. And as well the person building it has to be trade ticketed..
    However, there will probably be a note on the engineer's drawings saying that all welds are to be to AS15xx (structural steel welding code). The person with the best chance of being able to weld to that standard is...?

    Michael

  9. #38
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    Default As/nzs 1554

    interesting reading the standard from Scribd

    guess I should do that course.......

    might see if there are any qualified inspectors in tamworth too who might come on board

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by meadow street View Post
    Karl ....like this you mean?

    the overrun of the top chord in my sketches do give a more "building" look rather than a shed look in my opinion.

    the other reason being that if the overhang is carefully considered it can allow northern winter solar gain and the higher elevation summer sun streams excluded through the building openings ( sliders or windows, clerestory etc).

    there are some formulae for window placement and eaves overhangs with regard to latitude/longitude.

    onwards and upwards through the red tap jungle I climb
    That's the one.
    As regards AS 1554. It's been a sore point with me for some time that "all welds to AS AS 1554" is put on every drawing, yet so few people actually work to it. I have seen some atrocious welding on structural beams, don't even get me started on the welding seen on many kit sheds.
    AS 1554 is a useless standard unless you comply with it, half the engineers don't even know what it means, they just know that you cut and paste AS 1554 in a little box on your drawings.
    There are some really good engineers out there, but there seem to be a large number who couldn't spell engineer last week, but now they is one. Apologies to any decent engineers reading this, but I have come up against some real idiots, I could nearly write a book on them.

  11. #40
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    I like your style Karl.

    Thank goodness for local libraries!

    The kind librarian just downloaded the standard, albeit a contentious one, to a memory stick for me.

    At least I can read it and makes some notes.

    btw as you can appreciate, I am doing all this to educate myself and hopefully save some money or at least spend heaps of money and educate myself : ) haha

    do you want to hear some other questions I have?

    do you want to see some other details, or is it too boring?

    regards to all


    meadow street.

  12. #41
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    Keep on plugging away Meadow, always good to see new ideas.

  13. #42
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    Default improved pipe to flat joint weldment

    How about adding a channel or two angles to the vertical connector plate before welding it to the pipe column ?


    see atattached


    Getting a good weld in the radius has always bothered me

    Worth the extra effort for piece of mind?

    ie fillets on the side of the pipe rather than in the tight radius which I find needs building up a lot .


    i,ll attach the apex for consideration too while I,m at it

    see below.

    regards

    meadow
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  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by meadow street View Post
    How about adding a channel or two angles to the vertical connector plate before welding it to the pipe column ?
    Getting a good weld in the radius has always bothered me
    You can also use some reinforcing bar or just some steel rod - tuck that lengthways along the radius and weld stringers over the top.
    Capture.PNG

  15. #44
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    Round bar works well as Welder Mick posted, some also use a couple of pieces of flat bar each side. I definitely would not use channel for cost reasons plus you would find it hard to source a channel that would suit as a standard item.
    I actually think that you may be a bit over braced with your trusses. This won't hurt but will add time and cost to your project.
    If not for the fact that you have the pipe, I would always suggest other sections such as SHS or RHS. They are much easier to fabricate with and are a higher tensile steel while being cheaper into the bargain. Just a bit of info to put away for the next project.

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