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22nd September 2013, 11:19 AM #31
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22nd September 2013 11:19 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd September 2013, 12:16 PM #32
What amazes me is what the pre-fab sheds get away with. Mine was as soggy as a wet wheetbix until it was all braced and had some sheeting on. Several of the frames tried to fold in half at the peak as we stood them up, as they only have a plate bolted on one side of the c section trusses. I had to add collar ties in as every time i got on the roof the trusses would sag and i'd have to jack them up again....
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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22nd September 2013, 12:35 PM #33Senior Member
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If it needs to be engineered find an engineer who can sign it off and ask them to do the design based on your materials, then do the drawings yourself and get them to sign them off.
My understanding is that generally materials need to be new and the welding done by someone with a trade... but i wouldn't ask the council if this is the case directly instead find out what the general requirements are for building a shed and see what comes up.
I'm on a rural block a long way from town and no approvals at all required for sheds.. its great.
It has always amazed me how much the regulations vary between states and even different councils within the same state.
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22nd September 2013, 12:52 PM #34SENIOR MEMBER
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[QUOTE=gallegos;1699396
It has always amazed me how much the regulations vary between states and even different councils within the same state.[/QUOTE]
Very much tightened up in SA - seems to be ever since a (new) major golf clubhouse collapsed and killed a woman a while back.
Had timber beams/trusses that were badly engineered and made - from what I read. The large open/unsupported roof fell in.
Getting back to ETSA - in SA they inspect all country powerlines with a helicopter once a year according to the Bro in law (full on farmer), so any buildings and trees etc that are too close get the chop, one way or another.
I am not aware of a ban on using recycled materials, and the recycled building supplies do a roaring trade in SA. Once it's painted how would you know ?
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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22nd September 2013, 02:37 PM #35Senior Member
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regs etc
Thanks for all your thoughtful comments and words of caution and senses of humour.
If welding qualifications are required then I am happy to do the yards at "school" and sit the tests. Hopefully it won't be a waste of time since a lot of the theory is already instilled in the memory banks and a sound weld is something I can recognise and produce.
other regs will be followed too.
know any retired engineers/draftsmen who want a project?
regards and happy metalworking !
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22nd September 2013, 02:49 PM #36Senior Member
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Karl ....like this you mean?
the overrun of the top chord in my sketches do give a more "building" look rather than a shed look in my opinion.
the other reason being that if the overhang is carefully considered it can allow northern winter solar gain and the higher elevation summer sun streams excluded through the building openings ( sliders or windows, clerestory etc).
there are some formulae for window placement and eaves overhangs with regard to latitude/longitude.
onwards and upwards through the red tap jungle I climb
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22nd September 2013, 03:36 PM #37Philomath in training
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22nd September 2013, 09:00 PM #38Senior Member
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As/nzs 1554
interesting reading the standard from Scribd
guess I should do that course.......
might see if there are any qualified inspectors in tamworth too who might come on board
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23rd September 2013, 02:15 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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That's the one.
As regards AS 1554. It's been a sore point with me for some time that "all welds to AS AS 1554" is put on every drawing, yet so few people actually work to it. I have seen some atrocious welding on structural beams, don't even get me started on the welding seen on many kit sheds.
AS 1554 is a useless standard unless you comply with it, half the engineers don't even know what it means, they just know that you cut and paste AS 1554 in a little box on your drawings.
There are some really good engineers out there, but there seem to be a large number who couldn't spell engineer last week, but now they is one. Apologies to any decent engineers reading this, but I have come up against some real idiots, I could nearly write a book on them.
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23rd September 2013, 03:50 PM #40Senior Member
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I like your style Karl.
Thank goodness for local libraries!
The kind librarian just downloaded the standard, albeit a contentious one, to a memory stick for me.
At least I can read it and makes some notes.
btw as you can appreciate, I am doing all this to educate myself and hopefully save some money or at least spend heaps of money and educate myself : ) haha
do you want to hear some other questions I have?
do you want to see some other details, or is it too boring?
regards to all
meadow street.
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23rd September 2013, 04:18 PM #41GOLD MEMBER
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Keep on plugging away Meadow, always good to see new ideas.
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23rd September 2013, 10:45 PM #42Senior Member
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improved pipe to flat joint weldment
How about adding a channel or two angles to the vertical connector plate before welding it to the pipe column ?
see atattached
Getting a good weld in the radius has always bothered me
Worth the extra effort for piece of mind?
ie fillets on the side of the pipe rather than in the tight radius which I find needs building up a lot .
i,ll attach the apex for consideration too while I,m at it
see below.
regards
meadow
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23rd September 2013, 11:06 PM #43SENIOR MEMBER
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You can also use some reinforcing bar or just some steel rod - tuck that lengthways along the radius and weld stringers over the top.
Capture.PNG
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24th September 2013, 11:09 AM #44GOLD MEMBER
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Round bar works well as Welder Mick posted, some also use a couple of pieces of flat bar each side. I definitely would not use channel for cost reasons plus you would find it hard to source a channel that would suit as a standard item.
I actually think that you may be a bit over braced with your trusses. This won't hurt but will add time and cost to your project.
If not for the fact that you have the pipe, I would always suggest other sections such as SHS or RHS. They are much easier to fabricate with and are a higher tensile steel while being cheaper into the bargain. Just a bit of info to put away for the next project.
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