Thread: Bit Storage

Originally Posted by cba_melbourne

They use a material called Corian in luxury kitchens and bathrooms. It is a great substitute for Delrin or HDPE if you can get free offcuts (it is normally not cheap), machines well:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corian

I know a bloke who makes Corian bench tops. I'll give him call.

Well I found I nice piece of firewood the previous occupants left behind. amazing what is under all that grey rough outer. Spent over 3hrs drilling holes not including layout as I did that yesterday as well as squaring it all up. Amazing how time consuming things can be. Pretty happy with the regularity of the hole spacing. Now to champhfer the edges and put a coating in it.


that is the end mills done, now on to slot drills that's the bit of wood behind it..
Still haven't decided what to do with taps, reamers and misc odd cutters.

Any guess as to if this is jarrah or redeem? It's deep color than it looks in the pics..

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Amazing how time consuming things can be. Pretty happy with the regularity of the hole spacing. Now to champhfer the edges and put a coating in it.

Making these stands is extraordinarily time consuming (DAMHIKT). Are you going to use oil for the finish? It would get into those holes nicely.

Looks great Dale! Could be Jarrah I suppose. That's what I like about timber from that kind of source - you may never really know.

I was thinking of maybe doing a boiled linseed oil finish? Then filling each hole with machine oil and letting it absorb into the wood??

Open to ideas.

The machine oil won't dry. The BLO will (eventually). I just used Danish.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

I was thinking of maybe doing a boiled linseed oil finish? ...

Not wanting to hijack a thread and this maybe a stupid question, but:
1. From a usability perspective, whats the difference between boiled linseed oil and regular linseed oil?
2. To get BLO do you start off with normal linseed oil and simply apply heat on the stove or do you need to buy it?


Interested to know cos I have to make some bit storage soon.

Thx
J

Originally Posted by ventureoverland

Not wanting to hijack a thread and this maybe a stupid question, but:
1. From a usability perspective, whats the difference between boiled linseed oil and regular linseed oil?
2. To get BLO do you start off with normal linseed oil and simply apply heat on the stove or do you need to buy it?


Interested to know cos I have to make some bit storage soon.

Thx
J

Boiled Linseed Oil is a name dating back to before the use of modern day metallic driers. The Raw Linseed Oil was partly polymerised by heating it. This part polymerisation enhanced the drying of the oil.
These days BLO is Raw Linseed Oil with metallic driers added.

I would not recommend trying to make your own BLO from Raw by putting it on the stove, it is a fairly flammable substance.

In the days of varnish cooking the varnish cooking areas regularly went up in flames.

As a young paint chemist I witnessed a batch of China Wood Oil (Tung Oil) go up and it is not an experience I would like to repeat.

For items with tapered shanks like MT bits, a single size hole in a piece of wood can leave the bits looking like a row of drunks.

One way around this is to drill a hole with a step in it to hold the bottom and the top of the shank. This will hold the bits straighter than just a single hole.

The way I prefer to do it is using two boards separated by a gap, because MT shanks are the same over a range of bit sizes there is no need to change but sizes so often so the drilling is a lot quicker than for variable size shanks.

Like this


BTWm for thin layers of rust spots on bits and machinery I have been wiping these spots with tannic acid which converts the rust to a black, rust resistant, ferrous tannate. Unlike phosphoric acid, tannic acid is much weaker and dries quickly to a very thin (micron) film which will not affect bit sizes. The resulting ferrous tannate layer is not physically robust and will eventually wipe away, but i's a bit quicker than having to physically remove the rust with something like a steel wool and then wiping with oil.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Boiled Linseed Oil is a name dating back to before the use of modern day metallic driers. The Raw Linseed Oil was partly polymerised by heating it. This part polymerisation enhanced the drying of the oil.
These days BLO is Raw Linseed Oil with metallic driers added.

I would not recommend trying to make your own BLO from Raw by putting it on the stove, it is a fairly flammable substance.

In the days of varnish cooking the varnish cooking areas regularly went up in flames.

As a young paint chemist I witnessed a batch of China Wood Oil (Tung Oil) go up and it is not an experience I would like to repeat.

Well you learn something every day!!

Im assuming this is the stuff:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-1...d-oil_p1670039

Not only do I now know what to treat my wood with, was very surprised to hear it can be used to seal concrete paths & floors - How does it stand up to traffic and car tyres (thinking concrete garage floor!).

Yep that Diggers is the usual stuff. You can thin it down also if needed for application, it says on the bottle what use I'm sure. Off hand can't remember but I think its mineral turps.


Bob, That's a good tip for the Morse taper shanked drills.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Yep that Diggers is the usual stuff. You can thin it down also if needed for application, it says on the bottle what use I'm sure. Off hand can't remember but I think its mineral turps.

I used Gum Turps 50/50 which was fine. I guess you could use Mineral Turps. GT is more hazardous the MT(mask, gloves etc)

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

GT is more hazardous the MT(mask, gloves etc)

This has been discussed several times on the forum so briefly;

The MSDS for Gum and Mineral turps clearly show the recommended air exposure levels for mineral turps is actually LOWER than for gum turps.
The medical condition known as Painters Encephalopathy (Brain damage) was thought to be caused only by Gum turpentine but is now known to happen just as often to painters who constantly expose themselves to and only use mineral turps.

The reality is that they are both something that we should avoid breathing in or washing our hands with.

I accidentally nicked a few blood sample tubes from my hospital to see it they might be suitable for storing end mills etc.

The ones I "found" are 13mm ID x 100 mm long, and taper slightly towards the bottom. They have a pink top. Other coloured tops were smaller in dia.

I know there are bigger tubes, 16mm nom, but we didn't have any.

The tubes have some sort of internal coating that's easily removed with a tissue.

I reckon they are ideal for small cutters, say up to 12mm dia x 75 long.

Image below.

Ken

Originally Posted by BobL

This has been discussed several times on the forum so briefly;

The MSDS for Gum and Mineral turps clearly show the recommended air exposure levels for mineral turps is actually LOWER than for gum turps.
The medical condition known as Painters Encephalopathy (Brain damage) was thought to be caused only by Gum turpentine but is now known to happen just as often to painters who constantly expose themselves to and only use mineral turps.

The reality is that they are both something that we should avoid breathing in or washing our hands with.

Good to have that clarified. It was only just recently that I read the opposite somewhere on the forum.