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Thread: Bit Storage

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Delrin would make a fantastic bit holder. I have found Delrin sheet stock to be hideously expensive tho. That's why I used the HDPE. Offcuts are cheap. If you know where I can get offcuts of Delrin Grahame, I'd love to know.
    I have found that some of the best quality (not the cheapest soft stuff) kitchen cutting boards are made from a material that can be used to substitue expensive engineering material sheet. Maybe next sale season visit a kitchen shop. For small quantities/sizes turn out for me to be much cheaper than buying Poliethilene sheet (LDPE or HDPE).

    Another source of offcts for easy to machine top quality plastics can be cabinet makers. They use a material called Corian in luxury kitchens and bathrooms. It is a great substitute for Delrin or HDPE if you can get free offcuts (it is normally not cheap), machines well:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corian

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cba_melbourne View Post
    They use a material called Corian in luxury kitchens and bathrooms. It is a great substitute for Delrin or HDPE if you can get free offcuts (it is normally not cheap), machines well:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corian
    I know a bloke who makes Corian bench tops. I'll give him call.

  4. #18
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    Well I found I nice piece of firewood the previous occupants left behind. amazing what is under all that grey rough outer. Spent over 3hrs drilling holes not including layout as I did that yesterday as well as squaring it all up. Amazing how time consuming things can be. Pretty happy with the regularity of the hole spacing. Now to champhfer the edges and put a coating in it.


    that is the end mills done, now on to slot drills that's the bit of wood behind it..
    Still haven't decided what to do with taps, reamers and misc odd cutters.

    Any guess as to if this is jarrah or redeem? It's deep color than it looks in the pics..
    ..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Amazing how time consuming things can be. Pretty happy with the regularity of the hole spacing. Now to champhfer the edges and put a coating in it.
    Making these stands is extraordinarily time consuming (DAMHIKT). Are you going to use oil for the finish? It would get into those holes nicely.

    Looks great Dale! Could be Jarrah I suppose. That's what I like about timber from that kind of source - you may never really know.
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    I was thinking of maybe doing a boiled linseed oil finish? Then filling each hole with machine oil and letting it absorb into the wood??

    Open to ideas.
    ..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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    The machine oil won't dry. The BLO will (eventually). I just used Danish.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I was thinking of maybe doing a boiled linseed oil finish? ...
    Not wanting to hijack a thread and this maybe a stupid question, but:
    1. From a usability perspective, whats the difference between boiled linseed oil and regular linseed oil?
    2. To get BLO do you start off with normal linseed oil and simply apply heat on the stove or do you need to buy it?


    Interested to know cos I have to make some bit storage soon.

    Thx
    J

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    Quote Originally Posted by ventureoverland View Post
    Not wanting to hijack a thread and this maybe a stupid question, but:
    1. From a usability perspective, whats the difference between boiled linseed oil and regular linseed oil?
    2. To get BLO do you start off with normal linseed oil and simply apply heat on the stove or do you need to buy it?


    Interested to know cos I have to make some bit storage soon.

    Thx
    J
    Boiled Linseed Oil is a name dating back to before the use of modern day metallic driers. The Raw Linseed Oil was partly polymerised by heating it. This part polymerisation enhanced the drying of the oil.
    These days BLO is Raw Linseed Oil with metallic driers added.

    I would not recommend trying to make your own BLO from Raw by putting it on the stove, it is a fairly flammable substance.

    In the days of varnish cooking the varnish cooking areas regularly went up in flames.

    As a young paint chemist I witnessed a batch of China Wood Oil (Tung Oil) go up and it is not an experience I would like to repeat.

  10. #24
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    For items with tapered shanks like MT bits, a single size hole in a piece of wood can leave the bits looking like a row of drunks.

    One way around this is to drill a hole with a step in it to hold the bottom and the top of the shank. This will hold the bits straighter than just a single hole.

    The way I prefer to do it is using two boards separated by a gap, because MT shanks are the same over a range of bit sizes there is no need to change but sizes so often so the drilling is a lot quicker than for variable size shanks.

    Like this
    Bit Storage-bit-stand-jpg

    BTWm for thin layers of rust spots on bits and machinery I have been wiping these spots with tannic acid which converts the rust to a black, rust resistant, ferrous tannate. Unlike phosphoric acid, tannic acid is much weaker and dries quickly to a very thin (micron) film which will not affect bit sizes. The resulting ferrous tannate layer is not physically robust and will eventually wipe away, but i's a bit quicker than having to physically remove the rust with something like a steel wool and then wiping with oil.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Boiled Linseed Oil is a name dating back to before the use of modern day metallic driers. The Raw Linseed Oil was partly polymerised by heating it. This part polymerisation enhanced the drying of the oil.
    These days BLO is Raw Linseed Oil with metallic driers added.

    I would not recommend trying to make your own BLO from Raw by putting it on the stove, it is a fairly flammable substance.

    In the days of varnish cooking the varnish cooking areas regularly went up in flames.

    As a young paint chemist I witnessed a batch of China Wood Oil (Tung Oil) go up and it is not an experience I would like to repeat.
    Well you learn something every day!!

    Im assuming this is the stuff:
    http://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-1...d-oil_p1670039

    Not only do I now know what to treat my wood with, was very surprised to hear it can be used to seal concrete paths & floors - How does it stand up to traffic and car tyres (thinking concrete garage floor!).

  12. #26
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    Yep that Diggers is the usual stuff. You can thin it down also if needed for application, it says on the bottle what use I'm sure. Off hand can't remember but I think its mineral turps.


    Bob, That's a good tip for the Morse taper shanked drills.
    ..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Yep that Diggers is the usual stuff. You can thin it down also if needed for application, it says on the bottle what use I'm sure. Off hand can't remember but I think its mineral turps.
    I used Gum Turps 50/50 which was fine. I guess you could use Mineral Turps. GT is more hazardous the MT(mask, gloves etc)
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    GT is more hazardous the MT(mask, gloves etc)
    This has been discussed several times on the forum so briefly;

    The MSDS for Gum and Mineral turps clearly show the recommended air exposure levels for mineral turps is actually LOWER than for gum turps.
    The medical condition known as Painters Encephalopathy (Brain damage) was thought to be caused only by Gum turpentine but is now known to happen just as often to painters who constantly expose themselves to and only use mineral turps.

    The reality is that they are both something that we should avoid breathing in or washing our hands with.

  15. #29
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    Default Blood sample tubes

    I accidentally nicked a few blood sample tubes from my hospital to see it they might be suitable for storing end mills etc.

    The ones I "found" are 13mm ID x 100 mm long, and taper slightly towards the bottom. They have a pink top. Other coloured tops were smaller in dia.

    I know there are bigger tubes, 16mm nom, but we didn't have any.

    The tubes have some sort of internal coating that's easily removed with a tissue.

    I reckon they are ideal for small cutters, say up to 12mm dia x 75 long.

    Image below.

    Ken
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    This has been discussed several times on the forum so briefly;

    The MSDS for Gum and Mineral turps clearly show the recommended air exposure levels for mineral turps is actually LOWER than for gum turps.
    The medical condition known as Painters Encephalopathy (Brain damage) was thought to be caused only by Gum turpentine but is now known to happen just as often to painters who constantly expose themselves to and only use mineral turps.

    The reality is that they are both something that we should avoid breathing in or washing our hands with.
    Good to have that clarified. It was only just recently that I read the opposite somewhere on the forum.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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