Thread: Bit Storage

Generally a two flute is called an "slot drill". If you look at the cutting end you will see that one flute is ground so that it extends past the centre. This enables you to drill a hole or plunge cut into the job then cut a slot by going sideways.
A four flute is usually whats called an "end mill". If you look at the cutting end of one of these you will see that the ends of the flutes are the same length and except for the very small ones there is usually a centre hole in the end. You can't drill a hole or plunge cut with one of these. Only from an existing hole or from an edge.
There are also variations on these. You can also get 3 flute slot drills.

bollie7

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The wooden blocks are made from hardwood cutoffs (left over when making new door jambs) - or whatever nice wood scrap is at hand. These are about 20mm thick planks. I glue tree of them together, then saw to a rectangular shape to suit. Drill holes for whatever tools needs to fit. Then spray with clear laquer like Estapol. Add four thin rubber feet for stability. Done. Its practical, space saving, and looks good.


I highly recommend FC cutters (also called throwaway cutters). These have 3 lips, one of which is center cutting. They are suitable both as endmills and as slot drills, so no need to buy both:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-of-10-HSSCO8-FC3-milling-cutters-High-Quality-/281249756647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item417bcab5e7

I got more 2 flute-Slot Drills than I did 4 Flute End mills. Can I assume that the 4 Flute therefore gives a better surface finish than the two, based on the description Bollie gave??


CBA, Is there any issue with wood reacting with the metal and rusting? I think it has something to do with Tannin levels? Or does the lacquer you use seal it in?


I did see someone say there were some good CD/DVD drawer liners from Ikea but I can't seem to find them on the website so they may have disappeared.

Very impressive set-up you have there CBA. I am also concerned about rusting of the shanks in the wooden blocks. Will be most interested in how yours have survived with the Estapol coating.

Alan...

Originally Posted by DSEL74

CBA, Is there any issue with wood reacting with the metal and rusting? I think it has something to do with Tannin levels? Or does the lacquer you use seal it in?

I did see someone say there were some good CD/DVD drawer liners from Ikea but I can't seem to find them on the website so they may have disappeared.

Not sure about the wood causing rust, but I made a bit holder from a slab of 50mm thick HDPE.

I also have some of the ikea racks you describe lining a drawer. They are excellent for storing drill bits, reamers, mills, etc.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

CBA, Is there any issue with wood reacting with the metal and rusting? I think it has something to do with Tannin levels?

ABSO-BLOODY-LUTELY with some species. Do not use She Oak or Silky oak. I made these a few years ago:


The Brad points are HSS M2, and the Forstners are HC Tool Steel. The She Oak rusted them so badly that a couple that I hadn't used for 12 months or so had to be held in a vise while I would the drill bit hold off it...... (not forgetting the HSS M2 doesn't rust anywhere nearly as bad as Tool Steel).

I changed them over to Huon Pine and oiled the insides of the holes - no problems.

Now here's the thing: the bits that rusted the worst were German made HSS M2 brads. The set of Suttons/Frost twist bits are also HSS (that you can see have the business end into the She Oak) didn't rust AT ALL, and still haven't. The point being that the Frosties are made in China....

I'm in hospital three days a week, and keep my eyes open for things that may do for something else.

I reckon the blood sample tubes would be ideal. They are about 100mm long, 14mm in dia, transparent with a snap on lid.

I'll grab some next Monday and report back.

Each day, metres and metres of clear plastic tubing gets tossed. This tubing is used for blood transfusions etc, so a bit suspect to reuse.

Ken

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Can I assume that the 4 Flute therefore gives a better surface finish than the two,

In a perfect world feed is worked out per tooth.... twice as many teeth means you can feed twice as fast.

Originally Posted by cba_melbourne

I glue tree of them together,

Now that typo gave me a laugh

I've many milling cutters in a chipboard(yellow tongue flooring) holder and haven't noticed a rust issue. But it would seem location has something to do with it.

In my Hauser manual it makes mention of some tools been supplied in paraffined wood holders, which I thought sounded interesting, but google didn't come up with anything.

Stuart

Originally Posted by DSEL74

I CBA, Is there any issue with wood reacting with the metal and rusting? I think it has something to do with Tannin levels? Or does the lacquer you use seal it in?
I did see someone say there were some good CD/DVD drawer liners from Ikea but I can't seem to find them on the website so they may have disappeared.

If the wood has a lot of tannin in it then the steel should not oxidise/rust, instead it will form a black layer of Ferrous tannate which is inert and resits rust. It is usually quite a thin layer so unlike rust it won't affect accurate tool holding.

The problem with furry/unfinished wood is it absorbs water and that's what causes the rust. The wood can either be sealed with something like a poly or a squirt of machine oil which absorbs into the wood and then also protects any steel.

Folks with clean habits that completely clean their tools before they replace them may have more rust problems than those that place the tool back in the rack covered in lube etc.

> I got more 2 flute-Slot Drills than I did 4 Flute End mills. Can I assume that the 4 Flute therefore gives a better surface finish than the two, based on the description Bollie gave??

The more flutes, the more metal can the cutter remove per revolution, and the faster you can feed - on a rigid mill. The X3 is not that rigid.
I notice no difference in surface finish based on number of flutes. What definitely makes a difference is if the flutes are really sharp. Blunt cutters cause larger forces and hence more chatter and worse finish. I do not recommend coated cutters for a hobbymill, uncoated ones are sharper. Some coated cheap Chinese endmills I once bought to try, went into the rubbish bin after being used once or twice. HSS-Co is what lasts by far longest for me, and therefore is cheapest to me. Solid carbide I only use on hard materials where its the only choice - I have chipped or broken several small carbide cutters over the years on my small Toyo milling head, they are very fragile and do not like the vibrations of a small mill (the toyo is 20 times lighter than the X3, but still I am careful with carbide cutters, good ones are expensive and it hurts to loose one).


> CBA, Is there any issue with wood reacting with the metal and rusting? I think it has something to do with Tannin levels? Or does the lacquer you use seal it in?

Some of the tools in these wooden block have been there for 25 years and still not the slightest trace of rust. After spraying the drilled blocks with varnish, the holes remain dry. The spray does not enter the holes. When storing a cutter (or whatewer it is) away, I liberally oil the shank with 3in1 oil. The wood abrorbs that oil and seems to protect tools very well. The holes are good fits to the tool shanks, so no humidity enters around the shank. The wood types I used lately are mostly plain Meranti, but some older blocks that I made probably 30 years ago were made from unknown wood salvaged from cigar boxes that the tobacconist gave away for free, top and bottom veneered with top qualit baltic beech plywood (yes I am also into moel airplanes) and the side veneerd in Mahogany veneer cutoffs. Too much work nowdays.... and no more cigar boxes around.

But yes, there may well be some wood types that could cause corrosion - I just was fortunate not to have had them in my wood scraps bin.

What about some 25mm thick delrin sheet for your drill bit, taps etc, tool blocks

It won't rust the tools an is impervious to oil.

It not too bad for price.

You may be able to score some as scrap at a plastic shop.

Grahame

although majority of my new ones are in original boxes and containers my old ones get tossed into a small tin and a yoghurt container many are difficult to read sizes so I purchased a drill gauge with intent of making a drill stand still not done yet.

Now as of yesterday I have a small collection of long reach drill bits to store so watching for ideas.

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

What about some 25mm thick delrin sheet for your drill bit, taps etc, tool blocks

Delrin would make a fantastic bit holder. I have found Delrin sheet stock to be hideously expensive tho. That's why I used the HDPE. Offcuts are cheap. If you know where I can get offcuts of Delrin Grahame, I'd love to know.

you guys are too organised