Thread: Need a Blank End Arbor

Originally Posted by Michael G

If you have a "good" taper you can put that in your lathe and use that to set the cross slide if you haven't got a taper turn attachment.

Thanks Michael. I can't quite picture what you mean. Did you mean "set the compound"? Or maybe "set the tailstock offset"?
When I get my ER40 collet chuck and collets I guess I could just make a saw arbor with a parallel shank? It would be a lot easier, although I'm not sure if an ER40 has enough gripping power for a 100mm diameter saw blade.
Chris

Is this saw going to be keyed or plain.

Well, I'll be guided by the advice of others, but I was thinking keyed.

If you are going to use a keyed saw I would suggest putting a 3/4 UNF thread on the end or a metric equivilant.
How long is the blank part of the arbor.
Does the place your buying the arbor from also have arbor spacers.

here are the arbors I'm looking at buying: Blank End Arbors - Arc Euro Trade
The blank end is 40mm diameter and 30mm long.
I'm a bit lost with the 3/4 UNF thread. Is that the thread to screw the securing nut/flange on to?
I'm not sure what you mean by arbor spacers.

The photos below are of a slitting saw arbor I made to go in my mill. This style is good as it lets you get close to the table or a vice. The other type uses a pair of flanges and a stud & nut to hold the saw. This one is held in an ER40 collet and as you can see will slip if it is not tight enough. My mill is ISO40 taper, so I'll live with that as making up an arbor for those odd occasions is way down the list. I have no key on this saw arbor. For thin slitting saws I don't think it is necessary and I think is a lot of trouble to incorporate. The hat section is a close fit in the arbor as well as the saw. That's all that is keeping the saw concentric. The SHCS is M8 from memory.

P1010499 (Medium).JPGP1010500 (Medium).JPG
When I spoke of using a good taper to set up the cross slide (and I use this for the TTA too), I mount the 'reference' taper in the chuck and then use a dial indicator to indicate along it's length. When the compound (or TTA) is at the correct angle for the taper, the dial will not move as it moves along the taper as the travel will be parallel to the taper angle. Once you have this happy state you can cut a taper and it should duplicate the taper that was used as the master.
Scan (Medium).jpg
Setting the tailstock over is not the best way to cut tapers (although it can be done as has been many times) as the taper will vary with the length of material - that is, if you set up a taper for a particular length of material, you must have exactly that stick out or the taper will be wrong. Also, a centre hole that is offset will not seat as well on a centre in the tail stock. Setting back to parallel is a pain too. having said all that , if that is all you have to work with and you are careful it will yield a result.

Michael

All the arbors I have made for slitting saws are not slotted and are just straight arbors that fit in a collet, or if you so desire, in the chuck of your lathe.

I have put up a thread somewhere and mine are failry similar to Michael G's ones above.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/re...bbells-131635/

I don't see the need for a tapered arbor to fit in the spindle of your lathe (or mill).

Thanks fellas,
it sounds like a straight shank is the go then. I can do it myself and save a fortune on postage. I like that design Michael. I think I'll pinch it!

Big Shed,
thanks for the step-by-step photos.

Fred,
Pardon my ignorance, but why did you mill a flat on the shanks if they are going to be held in a collet?
Chris

Originally Posted by jack620

Fred,
Pardon my ignorance, but why did you mill a flat on the shanks if they are going to be held in a collet?
Chris

Not ignorant at all Chris, very good question in fact, the flat is miiled on there because I also use them in the R8 End Mill Tool Holders, of which I have a few different sizes.

Chris, another thing the flat will do is let you hold the arbor in a vice and (more easily) remove the saw. I keep meaning to mill a pair of flats onto the large diameter of mine for that reason. (The reaction forces on the blade will tend to tighten the bolt - if you mount and run the saw the other way it will tend to loosen).
Again it's not something high on the list but if you are making from scratch it's worth considering.

Michael

Got it.

I just stumbled across this. I wanted to machine the ends of 3morse arbors but did not want to wait for or find soft end arbors. I wanted to anneal the ends while keeping the morse taper hardened.

I cut up an old carby cleaner can to make a cup of water to sit the whole of the taper in water. To keep the arbor centered, I just removed the collar where the tube comes up through the can with side cutters and pushed it through. If you flip it upside down it is a perfect fit for 3morse tapers.

Fill it with water to just above the taper and heat the post with a map gas torch. It only took a min or two. Once it's nice and red let it slowly cool in the can of now warm water.

It worked a treat. Easily machined with m42 HSS and sutton drills.