Thread: Can I use a Boring Head in the Tailstock

Practical I would say no,possable yes.
You would have to be carefull that the Boring Head didnt turn in the Tailstock,(you would probably have to use some type of additional locking means to alleviate any rotation).
All so the feeding of the Tailstock would not be overly uniform unless you had a means of feeding it with the Lathe Carriage.
And just for my own interest why or when would you use the Boring Head over just using a Boring bar in the lathe.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

All so the feeding of the Tailstock would not be overly uniform unless you had a means of feeding it with the Lathe Carriage. And just for my own interest why or when would you use the Boring Head over just using a Boring bar in the lathe.

I can only agree with what Pipeclay as highlighted. I have never seen it done in my 35 years of being in the industry but that doesn't mean it hasn't. You just wouldn't get the rigidity that a traditional boring bar has to offer. So personally I would say that you are throwing good money away.

Cheers
MH

The only reason that I can think of to put a boring head in the tailstock is to use it as an off set centre for taper turning...

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Practical I would say no,possable yes.
You would have to be carefull that the Boring Head didnt turn in the Tailstock,(you would probably have to use some type of additional locking means to alleviate any rotation).
All so the feeding of the Tailstock would not be overly uniform unless you had a means of feeding it with the Lathe Carriage.
And just for my own interest why or when would you use the Boring Head over just using a Boring bar in the lathe.

I would use it to save money buying a boring head with all the boring bars and in addition a set of boring bars for the lathe is expensive . You can't use normal boring bars on the mill .
What about if I made a clamping holder for the boring head to be held in the tool post of the lathe ? Then I could use the carriage.
So the main drawback you can see is the possibility of the Mt turning as it cuts?

Originally Posted by Metal Head

I can only agree with what Pipeclay as highlighted. I have never seen it done in my 35 years of being in the industry but that doesn't mean it hasn't. You just wouldn't get the rigidity that a traditional boring bar has to offer. So personally I would say that you are throwing good money away.

Cheers
MH

Ofcourse it would not be done in industry. Industry has the money to equip each machine with all the tooling it needs .
I need a boring head for my mill . I need extra boring bars for my lathe.
I am trying to come up with a way to make one purchase do two machines.

Originally Posted by .RC.

The only reason that I can think of to put a boring head in the tailstock is to use it as an off set centre for taper turning...

I need a boring head for my mill . I need extra boring bars for my lathe.
I am trying to come up with a way to make one purchase do two machines.

Yes, you can do it, as an offset centre for turning tapers.
As for using it as a boring tool, why bother, the risk of damaging the tailstock internal taper FAR outweighs any advantage that you think you might/will achieve.

You can use it in the toolpost as an adjustable ball making tool, but a lot of preperation work is required, to make it happen.

If it's such a brilliant idea, then why isn't it used every day in industry, for the answer, read the above.

Just shell out the readies for the cutting gear that is required and forget about any savings from this silly idea, if you do try to do it, then just make sure you have enough money, to replace any gear you stuff up.

regards radish

Originally Posted by Retromilling

I would use it to save money buying a boring head with all the boring bars and in addition a set of boring bars for the lathe is expensive . You can't use normal boring bars on the mill .
What about if I made a clamping holder for the boring head to be held in the tool post of the lathe ? Then I could use the carriage.
So the main drawback you can see is the possibility of the Mt turning as it cuts?

I can see where you are coming from Retromilling but unless you are only doing small items and not going to bore tough materials you might get away with it. In regards using it in the tailstock, some of the taper sleeves have a female thread in the top of it. Thus you maybe able to use a tang insert (or make one) to prevent it from moving in the tailstock (also remember to tightly clamp the spindle to prevent backlash.

Of course you could always place the tailstock in front of the carriage and let that feed your tailstock in (& out)

Regards
MH

If tapers are the issue and they are at nominal sizes why not use taper reamers? or is that too simplistic?

MH

You could make up some boring bar holders for your lathe to take the same boring bars as your boring head. Then just use them in the tool post were they are suppose to go and they will be allot more rigid. To make one you get a piece of square steel drill a hole through it lengthwise and hacksaw a slot along one side so when it’s in your tool post you tighten it down to clamp the bar inside. A easy little project, then you can use the boring bars for both the mill and the lathe.
Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

You could make up some boring bar holders for your lathe to take the same boring bars as your boring head. Then just use them in the tool post were they are suppose to go and they will be allot more rigid. To make one you get a piece of square steel drill a hole through it lengthwise and hacksaw a slot along one side so when it’s in your tool post you tighten it down to clamp the bar inside. A easy little project, then you can use the boring bars for both the mill and the lathe.
Dave

That is a good suggestion , I infact had thought about that basic idea myself if using the whole boring head turns out to be a bad idea . You have pre-empted me but good thinking.

Originally Posted by Metal Head

If tapers are the issue and they are at nominal sizes why not use taper reamers? or is that too simplistic?

MH

No tapers are not the issue , for short tapers I use a taper setting gauge that is more accurate than setting over the tailstock and has more taper range . I don't have a need for long tapers at the moment.

If you have a mill you can easily make your own boring bars, however for the boring head they have to be of the correct geometry otherwise you will just get chronic chatter...

I made these three bars here..The two that take carbide inserts are wrong as the cutting edge of the insert does not line up with the centre line of the bar...As such I have to rotate it slightly in the boring head so it lines up with the boring head centre line...

For duty on the lathe they work well..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...eadbars001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...eadbars002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...eadbars004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...eadbars007.jpg

To make a bar to fit a 1/4" HSS bit, you mill a 1/4 slot in the end of the bar, then make a plug to weld into the slot you just cut...Insert a piece of 1/4 square in the slot, then your plug then weld the plug in...Then drill and tap for the grub screw..And volia, you have a square hole in your boring bar..

HSS cuts much easier then carbide in these cheap boring heads...carbide likes to chatter due to the lack of ridgidity...

To add to what R.C and others have said re boring bars for the lathe. Don't fall into the trap of thinking (only through inexperience) that a boring bar for a lathe has to be something special. When you think about it, all it has to do is hold the bit ridgidly enough to do the job. I've seen lots of bars made up to do a specific job, using all sorts of materials. I have a small one I made years ago to cut a left hand, internal acme thread. I can't remember the exact pitch but I think it must have been around 14tpi. The OD of the thread was about 1/2 or 5/8 which meant the id was about 3/8 or something to start with and it was about 1&1/2" long in phos bronze. I ended up grinding the tool up and then welded it to the end of a 5/16" high tensile bolt with the head cut off. Had a lot of spring in the tool which meant a lot of cuts on the same setting. Did the job though.
Another method is to use a broken centre drill instead of square HSS. this way you don't have the hassle of making a square hole in the bar. You can also buy round HSS.

regards
bollie7