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Thread: Brazing wire rope?
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29th March 2012, 03:41 PM #1Born old
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Brazing wire rope?
I'm making some gas bottle bells and drums to be put in the garden of my daughter's kindy. These will need the drumsticks/beaters attached to them so they don't go for a wander and get buried in the sandpit or become projectiles. I've got several metres of 7x7 stainless steel rope (about 5mm from memory, maybe 6 or 7) that are ideal for this.
It's ridiculously easy to do an eye splice in wire rope (it takes me 30 seconds as opposed to 5 minutes for rope) but I don't have the ferrules to crimp the join. I'd like to braze the join, mainly because it should look quite good and should result in a nice smooth, snag free joint.
So, I've a couple of questions - what's the best brazing rod for the job and which flux should be used? Clearly I'd like to avoid lead based solders. I gave it a bash with 15% silver solder and zinc chloride flux last night, but that was a total failure. The solder balled rather than flowed and I had to get the temperature too high for my liking (heat it too much and the individual SS threads become brittle).
Is this at all possible, or should I look at adding a crimp made of something like copper pipe? The budget for this is almost non-existent, the school's not rolling in it and neither am I (I've already spent a fair bit out of my own pocket for their garden project).
Graeme
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29th March 2012 03:41 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th March 2012, 09:25 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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I’ll toss this out, have you considered just epoxy gluing them. Find a scrap of tube that both ends of the cable lay in. Then pot them with Epoxy. I did a balcony a few years ago, bought the ferrules and the crimp tool. Even with that, cutting the dead end of the eye splice had to be very good, or they were very sharp.
I was in Bunning’s the other day, they had a Loctite equivalent of Araldite, for a little over $5 bucks. Only 12 grams, but it had 2 mixer tubes just like the big version for epoxy caulking guns.
Piece of copper tube, 3/8 – 1/2”, fashion it with a hammer if you have to. You have a kinder kid, your house is dripping in playdoe. Mask the bottom, and pour in some epoxy. Should with stand any force kinder kids can put on it.
I’d be concerned with heating the wire as you found, if you get a brittle break away strand, sharp nasty buggers.
Regards Phil.
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30th March 2012, 07:30 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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HI,
If You wanted to Weld them I would use Silver Solder (the type for s/s). However although there is only going to a tiny bit of Tension on the Joint, I dislike the Idea of Welding them. I am against the Idea of Welding them, because if the Joint should break on a little Tacker You will certainly have Tears and possibly Blood.
In Reference to the Wire You are going to use 7 x 7 that is a fairly stiff Wire. I realise that is the Wire You have at hand, but I would be inclined to use 7 x 19 Wire which is quite Flexible. To do Your Joins I would get some Swages and get the Cable Swaged. Once the Cable is Swaged I would suggest putting on Electrical Tape then two or 3 Layers of Heatshrink. The suggestion Machtool had about Epoxying the Joins is quite a Good idea providing a good Epoxy is used.All The Best steran50 Stewart
The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.
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30th March 2012, 08:08 AM #4Senior Member
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Hi,
I would keep the rope very short to avoid the problems that occur with curtain/blind cords, that is the choking hazard. As well the stiffer wire may be better as it will be more difficult to make into a loop.
Regards, Mm.
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30th March 2012, 11:04 AM #5Novice
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I agree with Steran50, use swages. Any ships chandler will have them, maybe even hardware stores. At 0.70 each this is an idea https://whitworths.com.au/main_itemd...AbsolutePage=1 that's for copper, they do nickel ones too.
Not 100% sure if you even need the tool because the load rating won't be too high so a decent vice should suffice.
HTH
Cheers,
RossA
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30th March 2012, 12:44 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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30th March 2012, 01:05 PM #7Born old
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Thanks for all the great suggestions guys.
I'll probably use a combination of a few of them - a bit of epoxy, copper swages & some heat shrink (not sure how long that last bit will last in the sun though). Metalman's comment about the risks of cables was something which was very high in my mind, so that was part of the reason for choosing the slightly stiffer cable. The end of the cable will also be fixed to the bottom of the support to prevent it becoming a hanging hazard. I'll have to keep the beater off the ground so it isn't a trip hazard, so I'll rig up some sort of support for that higher up that has only a tenuous grip on the beater (rare earth magnet probably).
There's a Whitworths chandler about 10 minutes from here, so I'll nip out at lunch to grab some swages.
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30th March 2012, 07:57 PM #8Senior Member
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Hello GRD,
If you are going to use plastic of any sort in an outside situation always pick the colour black. Black plastic is usually coloured with carbon black which is an excellent UV stabiliser, hence the black plastic bumper bars of a few years ago.
Regards, Mm.
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3rd April 2012, 04:51 PM #9Born old
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Thanks for that Mm, that's handy to know. The only knowledge I've had about colours and UV stability is that you should avoid red, as that seems to be the worst. This was based on a TV programme I saw a few decades back where they demonstrated the problem by poking holes in an old pair of curtains. The red flowers gave the least resistance. The main reason it stuck in my mind? I did the same test on my aunt's curtains. The results were the same, but I'm sure the TV presenter didn't get a clip round the ear afterwards.
Graeme
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